Is summer camping with 1 AC another compromise?

[AWCHIEF]

Originally Posted by lsbrodsky

Seems like my experience is normal, so I have trouble understanding how Rich can cooldown with 1 AC in Florida in 3 hours. I do not want to go tearing things apart looking for ways to retape and insulate if I cannot expect much better results. Perhaps Airstream would not have moved to a 2 AC option if people did not like the performance with 1 AC in very hot climate conditions. Sure, we are spoiled but that is why we have an Airstream instead of a tent.
Larry

I have no trouble understanding it at all. On the Mississippi a Gulf Coast, In 90 degrees and 80% humidity weather my trailer easily cools to 70 in less than two hours sitting in full sun. I timed it today just to see. It is currently 94 outside and keeping 70 inside. Of course it is a relatively new AC, less than one year old.

[tjdonahoe]

Here in montana and wyoming, most of the time we don't use the ac,today it is 65 degrees, humidity around 68....

[rodsterinfl]

Well, in this back and forth discussion I can only state what happens. Some state that you cannot keep a 25' Airstream cool with one AC unit- I can and with an 11K BTU unit in FL, in the nineties and high humidity.

I know this is an offshoot but we have a backup 10K BTU Fedders window unit AC that we keep as hurricane backup to run on the generator to cool the master bedroom suite of the house during power outages. That unit will cool that area down and keep it cool- even during the muggy aftermath of a storm. The room is on the southwest corner of the house. The room volume is large- 12 foot ceilings, 17x15 bedroom with no door adjoining bath area about the same size- a large space much larger than my trailer and certainly more volume. It is true that there are differences but it makes a point about size of unit and volume of area to be cooled. There is no way a 10K unit meets the calculation to cool such an area, even with the best of insulation but it works.

I admit I am a geek at heart. I have actually calculated for AC size on my Airstream model and it comes to just over 10K with three people inside. The calculation is easy to find online and it encompasses if there is a stove, window area, insulation, room volume, orientation of dwelling, etc. When I calculated, I used the least insulation and the worst orientation- ends at East/West sun baking a side long way. I DID use my exact window area. The point? The AC is big enough for the close to 150 sq ft. 6.5' ceiling space. Haines AC where we have purchased three home AC units from are highly rated in our area. They told us each time when we get to "what size" the discussion piece leads to "better to go smaller than too big." Our last purchase that replaced the original system of the current home was smaller than the original. The reason is the humidity- it has to draw it out BEFORE cooling it down to cycle. Bigger units will cool faster but then leave it damp- too big.

Swamp coolers are better in dry hot regions than AC. There are other differences as well. All Dometic units prior to 2010 and most brands used R22 refrigerant. In 2010 Dometic changed their compressor and systems to work with 410A. Look over this, check out the conclusion. This is one of many such evidences of the change to weaker all in the name of environmental protection.

http://fire.nist.gov/bfrlpubs/build02/PDF/b02186.pdf

Here in montana and wyoming, most of the time we don't use the ac,today it is 65 degrees, humidity around 68....

You lucky dog. Let's all head for Montana!

[dcasr]

We have a 1990 Excel 29' with a 13.5 AC and it does get warm in the summer, even in the North Georgia mtns in July-August. We travel with box fans, and we have a small rotating fan that sits on a shelf in the rear bedroom, and if all of this just doesn't do it, we make up the front couch into a double bed, and freeze directly under the ceiling AC outlet. So we do carry blankets, even in the summer. We would hate to give up the rear Fantastic Fan ceiling vent, even for a second AC unit.

[rodsterinfl]

Circulation was an issue for me until I got the new air box. The old style box directed all the air to the back or front so that at night sleepers froze with cold air drafts blowing. The new style, I lost the heat element, allows me to turn off the fore/aft vent and blow it to the sides and straight down. It made a huge difference. Also, if I run the fan on low, the rear of the trailer gets warmer. I can close the front vent and it balances the air. In high humidity I have learned to keep the fan on high to keep the air flowing in the unit and from freezing up.