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07-27-2009, 08:43 PM
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#2
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Moderator Emeritus
1964 26' Overlander
1978 Argosy Minuet 6.0 Metre
Anna
, Illinois
Join Date: Sep 2002
Posts: 5,710
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How do i remove a/c 65 caravel?
Greetings Kevin!
If your coach has an original factory or Airstream dealer installed air conditioner, it is likely an Armstrong Bay Breeze. If that is the case, it will be attached much differently than today's units. There are two units in the Armstrong -- one one the roof and the other on the interior, and they are connected through two or three small round holes in the roof (there is no 14" x 14" vent below this type of air conditioner). A large number of rivets attach the air conditioner to the roof (also, anticipate large amounts of Vulkem), and rivets and screws are used on the inside.
Once the two parts units are separated, you will need to cut the 14" x 14" opening and add bracing/framing before installing the new air conditioner. When my dealer performed this operation for me, they utilized rot resistant wood -- others have utilized aluminum.
Good luck with your installation!
Kevin
__________________
Kevin D. Allen
WBCCI (Lifetime Member)/VAC #7864
AIR #827
1964 Overlander International
1978 Argosy Minuet 6.0 Metre
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07-27-2009, 08:50 PM
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#3
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Site Team
2002 25' Safari
Dewey
, Arizona
Join Date: Mar 2005
Posts: 15,615
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A 15K unit seems to be a bit of over kill for a 17 foot trailer. A 13.5 unit should be more then enough.
__________________
Richard
Wally Byam Airstream Club 7513
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07-28-2009, 06:19 AM
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#4
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3 Rivet Member
1965 17' Caravel
Curtis Wright
San Marcos
, Texas
Join Date: Jun 2009
Posts: 231
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thanks for info so far. there appears to be a 14x14 hole and not 3 smaller holes.
also i live in texas and it is very hot hence the 15k unit
kevin
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07-28-2009, 06:58 PM
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#5
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banjobill
2000 30' Limited
battle ground,
, Washington
Join Date: Jun 2009
Posts: 516
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Hi kevin, I am bill the old newbie-I just replaced (actually still replacing) the A/C on my 85 Excella. I was not going to answer when I read about the 3 holes, etc, cuz I am not familiar with such. But you stated you have a 14 inch sq. hole. So, I am assuming you have the interior part of the A/C out. Once I got my interior piece out, I removed the four large bolts that created the a/c "sandwich" on the roof. Then, up on top, the a/c unit was directly removed from the roof-leaving only the pan. Once the upper and lower unit was completely out, then I gently began applying upward pressure on the top unit's pan. it wasn't cooperating, so then I gently tapped a 5 inch putty knife using a dead blow hammer into the joint between the roof and the pan. It slowly came free. Then using careful scraping (use whatever-I used a gasket scraper-as I knew the aluminum under the a/c would never show) I took off the majority of the vulkem. Once just a thin layer existed, I used shop paper towels and mineral spirits. Got down to the bare alum. Used rough sandpaper to rough up the alum approx 2 inches around the 14 inch sq hole. Then, lightly taped a large pc of cardboard to the roof behind the 14 inch hole. Placed the a/c on the cardboard and checked to see if I was man enough to gently slide the unit over the hole in such a manner as to NOT smear the new vulkem (which of course had not be added during this test slide) you know-let the new lo-pro unit slide on its tailfeathers, as you lift the leading edge of it and slide the whole shebang into place. When it is in tmpy place, go inside and figger out your drain tubing set-up if you are going to use such (i would). and make sure the 14 inch hole is clear for the bolts, etc. (btw use the short bolts in front). Then slide the a/c back on the cardboard, and put new vulkem on, and do your tail-drag into place one more time. it helps to have someone inside to direct you as you set the a/c down-straight down so you do not smear the vulkem-once in place you can make minor adjustments-the vulkem is forgiving. Then bolt 'er up and start assembling the rest of the stuff. You can do it. and 15k aint enuff... it is over 100 degrees here in southwest washington state today, and there is an amazing puddle of water from the condensation tube....
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07-28-2009, 07:33 PM
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#6
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Site Team
2002 25' Safari
Dewey
, Arizona
Join Date: Mar 2005
Posts: 15,615
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It sounds like they installed your 85 units much like they do today. The unit on my 75 was totally different. It was only attached to the outer skin with a series of over 40 screws attaching the drain pan to the roof. Add to that 30+ years of vulkem and more vulkem and even more vulkem, it took us half a day just to remove the old unit.
Once removed the inner and outer skins must be braced so that the new unit can be clamped to the hole.
__________________
Richard
Wally Byam Airstream Club 7513
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07-28-2009, 08:14 PM
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#7
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Moderator Emeritus
1964 26' Overlander
1978 Argosy Minuet 6.0 Metre
Anna
, Illinois
Join Date: Sep 2002
Posts: 5,710
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How do i remove a/c 65 caravel?
I don't think that Airstream switched from the multi-hole mount until the Armstrong air conditioners were discontinued sometime in the very late 1970s or early 1980s. Both of my coaches had Armstrongs with the two units and three small round holes.
Kevin
__________________
Kevin D. Allen
WBCCI (Lifetime Member)/VAC #7864
AIR #827
1964 Overlander International
1978 Argosy Minuet 6.0 Metre
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07-29-2009, 08:31 AM
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#8
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banjobill
2000 30' Limited
battle ground,
, Washington
Join Date: Jun 2009
Posts: 516
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curved inside a/c control unit
hmmmm, as I said, i am in the middle of my a/c replacement. everything was going quite well until i attempted the install of the inside control/vent unit. Believe it or not, the inside roof of the AS is curved ! The unit that comes with the new carrier is designed for a flat surface. So, now I understand what that 1/4 inch piece of plywood was doing between the control unit and the roof of the old a/c. two solutions: 1) shim (aka plywood) the control unit down inside the AS so that the outer edges of the control unit will be flush with the inside (leaving a gap at the middle top of the unit) or 2) curve the edges of the control unit.
Now #2 sounds daunting...but after looking at it awhile, I think it is doable. (is that a word?) I made a cardboard template of the curve-which is really quite flat. and I traced it onto the plastic control unit. using a flat board hand sander, the outer edges will be relatively easy to do, but the front and back center of the control unit will be a little more of a challenge. Fortunately, the curve is virtually flat across the area with the vents, so I will opt to leave them virtually flat-i will sand the outter edges ever so slightly. this will leave a tiny gap at the very center of the unit, but the vent area has to be left the way it came from the factory in order to work freely.
I shunned #1 cuz I already had everything bolted up (including the fabric "duct") and I didn't want to disturb all that. Besides, head room is important, and I don't shine up to the idea of spacing all that mechanism downwards. So off I go to the sanding operation before it gets too hot. I will try to post some photos.
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07-30-2009, 08:29 PM
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#9
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3 Rivet Member
1965 17' Caravel
Curtis Wright
San Marcos
, Texas
Join Date: Jun 2009
Posts: 231
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well i got it out and it came pretty easily. 4 bolts inside, a few rivets that held the inside plate. disconnected wiring and pushed it up from inside to loosen it. then two buddies on a very sturdy ladder laid it on a thick moving blanket next to the 14" hole. i held it in place while they moved the ladder and we slide it off the roof. then i removed the plate that was gunked to the roof.
ordered the new one and installation should be fun.
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