Heater Leaking?

[MrJ]

I believe my heater is leaking when it rains. I took off the outside plate and it didn't have any calk, and the screws were all rusted.

What is the correct way to install the outside plate?

[ROBERT CROSS]

A camping friend used this sealant on his SOB,(alum), with good results.
I would think any non-silicone high temp sealant would work to seal the plate.

I had the rust tracks on our 63 Safari, replaced all exterior screws with stainless.

Bob

[clancy_boy]

Yep - replace with stainless - the rust stains will stop. The savings during production had to have been .02 cents with original screws vs. ss screws. I'm sure AS put that savings into improvments on later units. I used high temp sealent from a fireplace installation store that had many colors for wood burning stoves available.

[MrJ]

Did it come with calk from the factory? Or some type of seal?


Is this another example of someone rigging things on my RV? I'm getting tired of this..

[ROBERT CROSS]

Originally Posted by MrJ

Did it come with calk from the factory? Or some type of seal?


Is this another example of someone rigging things on my RV? I'm getting tired of this..

Our furnace baffle on the 63 was quite different than the "porthole" style on yours. From the look of it it's probably been there since new. I would think though that some form of heat resistant sealant should be applied, even though water can still enter thru the exhaust/fresh vents.

CB...don't count on it. One of the first things I did with the Classic was replace all exterior fasteners with stainless.

Bob

[clancy_boy]

MrJ - mine on my 2003 CCD did not have any sealant on it. I have issues with mud dobbers so I'm in there every couple of years to clean them out. There was zero sealant on anything. I guess the design was to prevent any water from entering.

Roberet Cross - Yep - I did the same - SS screws on everything.

[edglenn]

The port and surrounding aluminum DOES get really hot and needs caulk. My local RV dealer said they use regular Butyl tape, but I didn't think that was appropriate for the high heat. I was right (Butyl shouldn't get hotter than 200 degrees.
I used a hybrid silicone latex caulk for JUST behind the new furnace plate. Yes, silicone (!!!). That's the only place I used it, I swear. It was rated for up to 500 degrees.

The question I would pose, is; If the plate's that old, what's the condition of your furnace? If you have to install a new one, the Suburban plate hole pattern is slightly different, and you have to install a new plate anyway.
Maybe...you need to plan on a new furnace, and then caulk up the new plate.
You only need to caulk the top three sides. Leave the bottom open to drain water.

[ROBERT CROSS]

Originally Posted by clancy_boy

MrJ - mine on my 2003 CCD did not have any sealant on it. I have issues with mud dobbers so I'm in there every couple of years to clean them out. There was zero sealant on anything. I guess the design was to prevent any water from entering.

Roberet Cross - Yep - I did the same - SS screws on everything.

CB
My mud dauber prevention system......bulk furnace filter material from HD.

Also installed behind fridge and water heater access doors.

Bob

[Jim Foster]

Originally Posted by clancy_boy

MrJ - mine on my 2003 CCD did not have any sealant on it. I have issues with mud dobbers so I'm in there every couple of years to clean them out.

You can get dome shaped screen covers to cover each of the two holes. That will keep critters out. That way you can seal as you wish.

[edglenn]

I used the expanded-metal aluminum mesh (used under plaster or stucco) to keep the bugs out. You can crimp it around the edges of the roof ducts, too.