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Old 03-04-2010, 06:19 AM   #21
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2004 28' Safari S/O
Livingston , Louisiana
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Great! The bad sail/limit switch trouble has been fixed again. Mine didn't go out all at once, so it was hard to figure out. Great job again - to the forum.
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Old 03-04-2010, 07:06 AM   #22
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If the furnace has to come out, you should replace the sail (limit) switch
In this case the sail and limit switch are different switches. To get to the sail switch you do have to pull the furnace. On my furnace to get to the limit switch you don't. If I understand the limit switch it kicks in and turns the burner off when furnace temps reach a predetermined temperature.
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Old 03-04-2010, 07:07 AM   #23
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I wonder why I've never had the sail switch replaced, what does it do?
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Old 03-04-2010, 07:20 AM   #24
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I wonder why I've never had the sail switch replaced, what does it do?
I'm not the Suburban guru, but have learned a few things in the past week. The sail switch (I think also called paddle switch) is in the path of the blower air flow. It needs a certain volume of air passing to mechanically open. It makes sure the blower is pumping enough air flow for the furnace to run properly. If there is not enough air the furnace will not fire.
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Old 03-04-2010, 08:20 AM   #25
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2004 28' Safari S/O
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Lumatic, BINGO. Mine is called a sail switch because it has a 'paddle' set in the air flow to measure pressure to turn the burner on. Mine also has a limit switch that will turn off the furnace if the temp get to high, as in a 'run away' furnace.
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