Furnace help.

[nbka1bm]

I recently was given a 66 globetrotter by my brother in law. now I have to restore it. I have all the paper work that has ever come with it (Almost). Including the original bill of sale. Thought that was pretty cool. My question is the furnace is the has no paperwork. I believe it is a Hydro flame. Does anyone have a picture of the front w/o the cover on. I want to make sure all the parts are in the right spots. Also where can I find a new control knob. Does anyone have an owners manual for this heater or know where I can find one. I dont know if it even works but don't really know what to replace or look for. I would like to keep this as close to original as I can.

Thanks!!!

[Ganglin]

Hi,

Welcome to the Forum. Here's a link to Google searches for Hydro Flame. if you know the model number - Marks RV might be able to get you a copy of an owners manual.

hydro flame rv furnace - Google Search

[Lumatic]

I don't know about Hydro Flames, but if I read the prevailing grok on old furnaces in the AS community correctly- old furnaces are hard to find parts for, get serviced and present a CO poisoning hazard. IMHO replacing old appliances with new does not detract from the value of the coach but adds to it. The possible exception being an vintage fridge or freestanding heater which have distinctively different appearance from new units. If you are a fan of aluminum masochism and want to keep it pure there are several sources for old appliance parts in Elkhardt Indiana, but I can't remember their names.

[Tarheel]

Welcome aboard, I am certain you will enjoy the time spent in restoring your uinit. There is a certain pride that comes with making it once again roadworthy that only those of us that have done it can truly understand.

[fotochop]

Many of the Suburban furnaces of that vintage were recalled due to an issue with the 'crossover tube' (see my "infamous" post above), search this forum for 'recall' and see if yours is included. At the very least you should pull the furnace (not hard, remove the LP tanks safely, disconnect the exterior vent screen and unscrew the vents, inside disconnect supply line and wires (no power should be available to the furnace, unscrew mtg. screws) to verify the tube issue and remove rust and gunk from the chamber). Ideally the furnace should be prof inspected and bench tested before you decide to use it. These can be incredibly DANGEROUS if not in top working order. I wouldn't sleep in a gas fired trailer without a good CO2/LP/smoke detector. A good electric heater will work until it gets really cold. Weatherstripping will help immensely.

[MarkR]

. . . you got a BROTHER-IN-LAW that gives old vintage airstreams away?
wow, how did you swing that?

. . . got pictures? (of the Globetrotter)

. . . and welcome.

[nbka1bm]

So far this is the only one I have. Man that was a tight fit. It took 4 of us to walk it in. The truck could only get it so far.

[Darol Ingalls]

Your Hydroflame heater does not have the vent tube issues associated with Suburban furnaces. Your's is a direct vent through the double pipes running from the back of the furnace to the exterior vent. You should check the heat chamber (looks like an oversize tomato can) for any serious rust. The pilot light and main flame nozzels are just behind the flip-open cover on the lower edge of the tomato can. Clean these with a brass bristled brush and some compressed air. Try to vacuum out any loose rust from the inside, check the outside vent for wasp nests or orther blockages. These heaters were usually "gravity flow" and had no fan. If the gas control is seriously corroded inside, you may not get any gas pressure to the nozzels so you may have to disassemble the gas lines from the control box to the nozzels and blow them out. If all else fails, these heaters can be replaces with the small 12KBTU Atwood forced air furnace as are found in many pickup campers. Darol