Visit our Popular Forums

fmr.capt.evi · 07-04-2011, 08:55 PM

Does anyone know what "EE" means? (A/C just quit; did not trip c/b; noticed comfort control center went blank; tried the reset procedure.....it shows "FF" when switch turned on, but "EE" when buttons released, with nothing else displayed; 12V system looks normal). Hopefully this is just a bad CCC.

lewster · 07-04-2011, 09:40 PM

EE is a code for lack of communication between the A/C unit and the CCC. It can not be re-set.

Try removing the CCC from the wall and remove the cable that looks like a phone wire. Replace and remove again several times and try the re-set.

If you don't get the FF, you have lost the connection to the upper A/C unit.

Next, remove the lower A/C grill and look for one or two small phone cable unions. They usually are the culprit. Try replacing it and see if you get the com back.

Another way to check it is to use a good, known, data cable (NOT phone cable) and try the connections again.

You could also have a bad end on the com cable.

fmr.capt.evi · 07-05-2011, 08:45 AM

Thanks for the response, lewster, I really appreciate it. I did find way too much crap on the first RJ11 terminal (below the roof unit), and the union that connects it to the phone cable which goes to the CCC. I crimped on a new RJ11, replaced the union, and now it's dead as a doornail....won't display anything. So I tried another new RJ11 (yes, I was careful to not crimp it on upside down). Anyway, still dead.
The Airstream dealer near my present location (Grand Rapids, MI), can look at it this Friday.....in the meantime, I'll be looking for some shade!
BTW, there is a second (and unused) phone cable in the same "bundle" which also terminates with an RJ11....do you know what that is?

Jammer · 07-05-2011, 10:31 AM

The extra cable may be a connection for the rear air even if rear air was never installed.

lewster · 07-05-2011, 01:58 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by fmrcaptevil

Thanks for the response, lewster, I really appreciate it. I did find way too much crap on the first RJ11 terminal (below the roof unit), and the union that connects it to the phone cable which goes to the CCC. I crimped on a new RJ11, replaced the union, and now it's dead as a doornail....won't display anything. So I tried another new RJ11 (yes, I was careful to not crimp it on upside down). Anyway, still dead.
The Airstream dealer near my present location (Grand Rapids, MI), can look at it this Friday.....in the meantime, I'll be looking for some shade!
BTW, there is a second (and unused) phone cable in the same "bundle" which also terminates with an RJ11....do you know what that is?

Every Dometic unit is set up for use in multiple roof air situations. On many larger motor homes, you typically see 3 or even 4 roof units, all tied in series and controlled by one CCC.

If you can try patching in a good data cable, you might be able to start eliminating contact points that might show you where the communication problem is. Another area I didn't mention is the relay board that controls the upper unit. It might have failed as well. There is a 3 (or 5) amp fuse in that board that you should check too.

fmr.capt.evi · 07-05-2011, 02:54 PM

Again, thanks, lewster. Is that relay board (with the fuse) located in the upper unit? Assuming that's what failed, is that why the CCC won't even light up, let alone display codes?

lewster · 07-06-2011, 04:41 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by fmrcaptevil

Again, thanks, lewster. Is that relay board (with the fuse) located in the upper unit? Assuming that's what failed, is that why the CCC won't even light up, let alone display codes?

The CCC gets it's 12VDC power thru the data cable emanating from the relay board in the upper unit. It is there that the 12VDC power supply from the trailer connects to the relay board and then thru the data cable to the CCC.

You might check to see if you have a blown 12VDC fuse in your fuse panel (test each one, don't just look at them), and check the small fuse on the relay board as well. There should also be a red and black wire pair that is the 12VDC feed to the relay board. I would check the crimps to be sure that they are sound.

If you are good with a meter, you can test those wires to be sure that you are getting 12VDC thru them. If not, the problem is downstream in your 12VDC power supply.

fmr.capt.evi · 07-08-2011, 11:20 AM

Problem solved this morning by Woodland Travel Center (Grand Rapids, MI). It was the 3 amp fuse in the relay board in the upper unit. lewster was right; thanks lewster, for sharing your knowledge, which pointed me in the right direction.

Brow324 · 07-15-2011, 09:41 AM

Lewster...I am having a similar issue. But I have power to the CCC and all main fuses and breakers are working properly.
I have diagnosed the data cable and reverse polarity adapters (it looks like I have two reverse polarity adapters at the a/c control unit which are connected to the two a/c data wires via RJ11s and the gray RJ11 data cable feeding thru the wall to the CCC appears to be a standard phone cable. Thus: The polarity reverse is taking place via the adapters.)
I have cleaned all data connectors on both ends of the line and the CCC board and switches with contact cleaner and canned air...done the reset a few times and still get the EE code. My next diagnose is the 3 amp fuse in the relay board in the upper unit. Where, exactly is that board located...easy to find? Does it have a cover?

Brow324 · 07-15-2011, 10:22 AM

Re my previous post: Those two adapters might be just standard connection adapters and not reverse polarity adapters.

overlander63 · 07-15-2011, 10:51 AM

This is as good a place as any to post the codes and their meanings. Anybody that has one of these units should bookmark this thread for future reference, it's kind of a pain to repost constantly:

E1: loss of communication between ccc2 thermostat and system power module board(s).

E2: open circuit or out of range indoor temp sensor. Fan only will work.

E3: Shorted indoor temp sensor. Fan only will operate.

E4: open circuit or out of range outdoor temp sensor.

E5: open circuit or out of range freeze sensor.

E6: open circuit humidity sensor.

E7: loss of 120v power.

E8: invalid zone configuration. Dip switches set incorrectly.

E9: invalid zone configuration. Check dip switch configuration.

Brow324 · 07-15-2011, 06:00 PM

where is the relay board located? need to check the 3 amp fuse. I'm guessing it's accessed from the top shroud since I can't see it from below in the cabin. Any guidance would be appreciated.

lewster · 07-15-2011, 07:28 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Brow324

where is the relay board located? need to check the 3 amp fuse. I'm guessing it's accessed from the top shroud since I can't see it from below in the cabin. Any guidance would be appreciated.

Depending on your unit, the relay board is either under the shroud on the curb side (behind a small metal door) or accessible from inside the trailer when you remove the air distribution box. It will be incased in a square metal box.

Brow324 · 07-15-2011, 07:39 PM

found it...under the shroud. checked the 3a fuse and it's good. replaced it for good measure with a new one. I've checked and double checked, cleaned and double cleaned all data connections, done the reset each time...and am still getting the EE code at the CCC.
am now thinking the CCC is kaput.

Aquabud · 07-15-2011, 08:07 PM

Furnace Codes

lewster · 07-15-2011, 09:34 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Brow324

found it...under the shroud. checked the 3a fuse and it's good. replaced it for good measure with a new one. I've checked and double checked, cleaned and double cleaned all data connections, done the reset each time...and am still getting the EE code at the CCC.
am now thinking the CCC is kaput.

You might have a bad data cable, end on the cable or a bad cable union. I would get a good cable (NOT phone cable, though they look almost the same but the connectors are attached differently) and plug one end into the unit and the other into the CCC. If you're EE is gone, you have a cable problem.

Brow324 · 07-16-2011, 07:12 AM

are those data cables - the reverse polarity phone type cable - available ready made? Maybe at Frys Electronics or Radio Shack? I called Alltex Electronics here in my area...a store that has everything electronics...and they don't have them, but they do carry the parts to make one.

lewster · 07-16-2011, 08:13 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Brow324

are those data cables - the reverse polarity phone type cable - available ready made? Maybe at Frys Electronics or Radio Shack? I called Alltex Electronics here in my area...a store that has everything electronics...and they don't have them, but they do carry the parts to make one.

I haven't seen them available at regular retailers or Radio Shack. I get them with inverters, solar monitors and such as they are included. I also have the tool to install the RJ style ends, so I usually make my own.

Brow324 · 07-18-2011, 02:23 PM

Well, after diagnosing the system and trying to find a cable I'm headed for Home Depot to buy the cheap $10 GE Modular Crimping Tool and make my own. But I'm totally perplexed at why Dometic would sell a product that requires a specialized data cable that cannot be readily purchased when there are ready to buy data cables of every other configuration on just about every street corner on the planet. Even the AS dealership, which is 70 miles from us (one reason I'm diagnosing this and attempting to fix-even to the point of replacing the CCC out of pocket-which is still less of an expense than towing the AS to the dealer, leaving it for a month and then towing it back just to have it fixed under warranty) has to make their own cables.

Just wondering if anyone's ever used the $10 GE RJ11 crimping tool and if it's worth the $10 bucks. Just need to crimp two connectors.

Brow324 · 07-18-2011, 06:56 PM

Hey Lewster,
I picked up the GE crimper, (which works great-by the way-well worth the 10 bucks and it comes with half a dozen RJ11 connectors)...made a new 4p4c cable and bypassed the installed data cable, did a diagnostic hook up with the new cable. Same results...EE.
I've eliminated everything from the chain of connectivity and am now convinced it's the CCC that's gone bad. The service tech at my local AS dealership agrees that it has to be the CCC so I'm going to order one and hope that all the diagnosing pays off with the correct fix.