Carrier A/C std vs low profile

[Ken J]

I am seeking opinions on the carrier A/C - the low profile is $170 more than the standard and does not have the slinger technology - the low profile is 7.5" whereas standard is 13" - as a comparison the penguin is 10". I'm thinking about just getting the standard

Ken J.

[Inland RV Center, In]

Originally Posted by Ken J

I am seeking opinions on the carrier A/C - the low profile is $170 more than the standard and does not have the slinger technology - the low profile is 7.5" whereas standard is 13" - as a comparison the penguin is 10". I'm thinking about just getting the standard

Ken J.

The Carrier low profile, is by far, the best.

No drain pan is required.

Andy

[Excella CM]

check here: http://www.airforums.com/forums/f42/...ht=moon+roof:D

[Coloradobus]

Ken J,

We installed a low profile Carrier on the GT for Salem last year. 15,000btu's of cooling. Great!!!! at temperatures in the 100's. The GT was a cooool 72 when outside was 104!!
We will be installing a low profile on the '79 Trade Wind. One thing we will do different is, adding the heat strip optioin to the TW's soon to be new A/C
OUr B Van and Bambi Quick Silver have to Penguin. It is relatively low as well. Our Caravanner came to us with the high profile Carrier on it. Since we are going to leave this trailer mostly original, we may take the 13 inch tall A/C unit off. The P.O put it on 2 years ago.

[Silvertwinkie]

We love our Penguin, but if the low profile is better, why not just do it once?

With a 26 footer, go with the 15k unit.....you won't be sorry. Best thing I ever did, particularly if you go in hot areas.

[Ken J]

Low profile it is!

Thanks as always for the help.

Ken

[tlavergne]

Originally Posted by Inland RV Center, In

The Carrier low profile, is by far, the best.

No drain pan is required.

Andy

Andy, Why is no drain pan required? I think I need to replace my original Armstrong on my 1978 Ambassador. The AC keeps tripping the trailer breaker after about a half an hour in 90 degree temps. The Carrier Low Profile 15,000 with a heat strip sounds like the best option.
Thanks.
Tom

[vswingfield]

Originally Posted by tlavergne

Andy, Why is no drain pan required? I think I need to replace my original Armstrong on my 1978 Ambassador. The AC keeps tripping the trailer breaker after about a half an hour in 90 degree temps. The Carrier Low Profile 15,000 with a heat strip sounds like the best option.
Thanks.
Tom

Is the Carrier low profile available with a heat pump. I have emailed Carrier, but they have not answered. Not impressed. I am also interested in the drain pan, Andy.

Vaughan

[Inland RV Center, In]

Originally Posted by tlavergne

Andy, Why is no drain pan required? I think I need to replace my original Armstrong on my 1978 Ambassador. The AC keeps tripping the trailer breaker after about a half an hour in 90 degree temps. The Carrier Low Profile 15,000 with a heat strip sounds like the best option.
Thanks.
Tom

A drain pan is built into the base.

Simply hook up thr drain hose to the drain pan.

However, installation can be a problem if you have a center bath.

Your present AC can be tripping the breaker for several reasons.

If your using an extension cord, it must be of adequate rating. The rating depends on the length of the cord.

The line voltage could be low to start with.

The freon level could be low.

The compressor could be on it's last legs.

Andy

[Inland RV Center, In]

Originally Posted by vswingfield

Is the Carrier low profile available with a heat pump. I have emailed Carrier, but they have not answered. Not impressed. I am also interested in the drain pan, Andy.

Vaughan

Carrier does not have a 15,000 BTU heat pump AC.

I don't recommend a heat pump for several reason.

1. The compressor runs in the heat mode.

2. That shortens the life of the compreesor considerable.

3. If you need that much heat, then run the furnace.

4. Running the furnace, when it's very cold or freezing, circulates hot air around the water pipes, which keeps them from freezing.

Andy

[vswingfield]

Thanks Andy,

I would definately run the furnace under 40 degrees, anyway. Much of our winters here in Arkansas are above that. I was considering it given the cost of propane anymore. I also supplement with a tall electric heater that stands well above the carpet.

Vaughan

[Overlander & Sea]

I just ordered a Carrier low profile, 15,000btu's with the heat strips for our '61 Overlander. For the size of the AS, looks, reviews of the unit, etc., I thought this was the way to go. Anyone need an old orginal(?), metal case unit that works?

[clancy_boy]

Originally Posted by Overlander & Sea

I just ordered a Carrier low profile, 15,000btu's with the heat strips for our '61 Overlander. For the size of the AS, looks, reviews of the unit, etc., I thought this was the way to go. Anyone need an old orginal(?), metal case unit that works?

Oh, so tempting - And I could drive over and pick it up........

[Overlander & Sea]

Mike, it's yours. Just PM me.

[HiHoAgRV]

Originally Posted by tlavergne

Andy, Why is no drain pan required? I think I need to replace my original Armstrong on my 1978 Ambassador. The AC keeps tripping the trailer breaker after about a half an hour in 90 degree temps. The Carrier Low Profile 15,000 with a heat strip sounds like the best option.
Thanks.
Tom

If your AC seems to cool ok, try a new breaker before you spring for the big $. Mine would run for several days then for no reason, trip. If I replace my AC, I will consider a heat pump and keep the propane for below 35 degrees. I agree with the technology and have had one in my home for years. If I'm on my meter, the monthly bill should be less than e-strip.

[tlavergne]

Originally Posted by Inland RV Center

Your present AC can be tripping the breaker for several reasons.

If your using an extension cord, it must be of adequate rating. The rating depends on the length of the cord.

The line voltage could be low to start with.

The freon level could be low.

The compressor could be on it's last legs.

Andy

I am plugged directly into a dedicated 30 amp RV service fed with 10 Ga. wire from my home service box...no extension cord. With no load on the system I am reading 119 volts in the trailer. When I fire up the AC it dipped to 95 for a half a second and settled in at 111.5 volts. I think tomorrow I will replace the breakers and see if that helps. I just ran the AC for 5 minutes or so, unplugged from shore power and removed the AC breaker...it was pretty warm. Thanks for all of the info and advice.
Tom

[tlavergne]

Well I think I solved my problem. I replaced all three 30 year old breakers and the AC has been running all day in 95 degree temps with no problems. Hopefully that was the problem. Thanks for all of the input.
Tom
#8848

[Jaxon]

This is v-e-r-y interesting topic... we currently have a 13,500 and in the summer heat here (up to over a hundred and with the humidity/heat index... whoa!), it sometimes feels marginal without an extra fan circulating the air. So, been thinking of a 15K and am wondering if the extra would really make that much of a difference to justify the cost? Would definitly want to get a low profile with heatstrip as the heatstrip does take the edge off in our falls & winters down here.

[HiHoAgRV]

Originally Posted by tlavergne

Well I think I solved my problem. I replaced all three 30 year old breakers and the AC has been running all day in 95 degree temps with no problems. Hopefully that was the problem. Thanks for all of the input.
Tom
#8848

Way to go!

Jaxon- try a dehumidifyer to relieve some of the load off of the AC. I keep one in a SOB at the weekend property and it helps dump the water from the interior and frees up the AC to do it's job

[gparker]

I just ordered a 15000 btu low profile Carrier from Palomino. Now I am kinda thinking I should have gotten the heat strip. We don't do much winter camping and even then the temps rarely go below freezing here.
Three questions: How well does the heat strip work, and can I add it on myself? If I can, do I need to do it before i install the A/C?