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11-24-2003, 06:17 PM
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#1
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Retired Moderator
1992 29' Excella
madison
, Wisconsin
Join Date: Aug 2002
Posts: 4,644
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anyone ever balance the airflow on a furnace?
wondering if anyone has ever diverted more air to the rear of a coach from the furnace?
here is the deal, during this last weekend deer hunting and staying in my trailer it was cold outside, with a low of 13 this morning.
my furnace is under the range, the furthermost forward cabinet. the living room duct is about 3 inches long, the rear bedroom duct is approx 15 feet long. therefore almost all of the heat goes to the living room.
has anyone tried to partially block the shortest duct to make the trailer heat more even? if you did what did you use.
being born and raised in a cold climate i don't mind the bedroom being cooler, in fact i like it!
what i would like is the bathroom being a bit warmer.
any thoughts or ideas?
john
__________________
you call them ferrets, i call them weasels.
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11-24-2003, 06:38 PM
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#2
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Moderator Emeritus
1972 31' Sovereign
High Springs
, Florida
Join Date: May 2002
Posts: 2,311
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John, mine has a louvered register in the front and back. The louvers are adjustable. I suppose you could duct tape a piece of cardboard over all or part of the front register, if yours are not adjustable.
__________________
ARS WA8ZYT
2003 GMC 2500HD 4X4 D/A Ext. Cab
Propane Powered Honda EU2000i
Lots of Hot Sauce!
Air # 283
WBCCI 1350
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11-24-2003, 06:41 PM
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#3
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Rivet Monster
1975 31' Sovereign
1980 31' Excella II
Sprung Leak
, North Carolina
Join Date: Jun 2003
Posts: 7,172
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John,
on my unit you can open and close the vents, well you could if they weren't rusted half open. But anyway take a look at the front one and see if you can close it off, other wise there is always duct tape BTW we use a small electric heater in the bath to warm it up before we go in...can't stand a cold throne, reminds me too much of the days before indoor plumbing in Iowa, in the dead of winter!
Aaron
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11-24-2003, 06:46 PM
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#4
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Retired Moderator
1992 29' Excella
madison
, Wisconsin
Join Date: Aug 2002
Posts: 4,644
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pick/aaron
mine just has 4" plastic round vents that you can swivel to direct the flow, not shut it off.
the duct tape idea is sounding better!
wonder if i could find the same size vent with a closeable louver?
john
__________________
you call them ferrets, i call them weasels.
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11-24-2003, 06:56 PM
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#5
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Rivet Monster
1975 31' Sovereign
1980 31' Excella II
Sprung Leak
, North Carolina
Join Date: Jun 2003
Posts: 7,172
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John
try this link, look at the one on the top right corner of the page
http://www.go-rv.com/coast/do/catalo...22&pageNum=252
I just figured AS was still using those good old steel one, another thought comes to mind, maybe you could install a booster fan part way down the duct to force the air to the bath room vent?
Aaron
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11-24-2003, 07:10 PM
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#6
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Rivet Master
1969 31' Sovereign
Broken Arrow
, Oklahoma
Join Date: Jan 2003
Posts: 1,455
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Fan in bath duct
John the AC people tell me fast fan for AC, slow fan for heat. You could put in a small 24VDC fan inside rear duct at bath. Would run at half speed and no noise.
My vents are adj but still the air in rear is not what it could be.
Garry
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11-24-2003, 07:24 PM
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#7
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Retired Moderator
1992 29' Excella
madison
, Wisconsin
Join Date: Aug 2002
Posts: 4,644
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aaron
that looks just like what i need!
thanxs for the link.
i remember reading in the suburban manual that one should not use booster fans. perhaps they could inadvertently trip the sail switch turning the gas on.
john
__________________
you call them ferrets, i call them weasels.
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11-24-2003, 08:18 PM
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#8
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Rivet Master
1993 30' Excella
whitewater
, north of cheddar curtain
Join Date: Jun 2003
Posts: 1,259
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john...
my rig is one year younger then yours..im surprised if you dont have adjustable supply louvers....the ductwork layout sux the big green one...i was able to pinch the bathroom which was hotter then a horse pistol...but sadly because of the horsesh*t layout...i couldnt force anymore back into the bedroom due to the small diameter duct run..... we both either have to change the duct diameter...or change where we crash and snore...
norby
__________________
Illegitimous noncarborundum(dont let the bastards wear you down)
The only true nobility is found through giving good food to your friends- Anton Careme
beauty is in the eye of the beerholder-cosmo fishhawk
if something is too good to be true, its usually gone before i get there-mister boffo
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11-24-2003, 08:35 PM
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#9
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Rivet Master
Join Date: Mar 2002
Posts: 1,486
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I am a bit surprised that you don't have enough heat for the bathroom - it is such a small space, yet is served by the same size duct as the other areas. We have a somewhat weak airflow to the back bedroom - and ours is just a 25'. Like you, though, I like to sleep cool, so have not tried to address it.
I suspect the problem is a combination of the flexible ductwork and the convoluted path to the bath, going under the floor and back up. I also would not be surprised if you have serious kink in that duct, restricting the airflow. It would be worth looking for. Of course, if it is under the floor it would be a bear to fix.
I have thought about getting straight metal ducts for the two flex ducts that run from the furnace across the kitchen and wardrobe cabinets to increase the airflow. Just one of those things on the to-do list.
Mark
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11-24-2003, 08:54 PM
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#10
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Retired Moderator
1992 29' Excella
madison
, Wisconsin
Join Date: Aug 2002
Posts: 4,644
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mark
you are correct about the duct layout.
it just seems like it was tossed under the cabinets. runs here and there. straightening it out is a good idea.
norby,
can't think of crashin anywhere else, i sleep better in the a.s. than i do at home!
john
__________________
you call them ferrets, i call them weasels.
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11-24-2003, 08:57 PM
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#11
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Rivet Master
1993 30' Excella
whitewater
, north of cheddar curtain
Join Date: Jun 2003
Posts: 1,259
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well gosh....
of course in meant the front as opposed to the back....
__________________
Illegitimous noncarborundum(dont let the bastards wear you down)
The only true nobility is found through giving good food to your friends- Anton Careme
beauty is in the eye of the beerholder-cosmo fishhawk
if something is too good to be true, its usually gone before i get there-mister boffo
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11-24-2003, 10:00 PM
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#12
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Just a member
1978 28' Argosy 28
Lutz
, Florida
Join Date: Mar 2002
Posts: 4,549
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The other issue is that the tank heat is normally fed off the ducts that run to the rear of the trailer. This means that 1/2 the heat that is going toward the rear never gets there, it heats the tanks.
__________________
Brett G
WBCCI #5501 AIR # 49
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1978 Argosy 28 foot Motorhome
Wise men talk because they have something to say; fools, because they have to say something. -- Plato
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11-24-2003, 10:45 PM
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#13
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Rivet Master
Join Date: Mar 2002
Posts: 1,486
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"The other issue is that the tank heat is normally fed off the ducts that run to the rear of the trailer. This means that 1/2 the heat that is going toward the rear never gets there, it heats the tanks."
That is true, and now I think of it, it is the bathroom duct that feeds the fresh water tank. The holding tanks are, of course, heated through the bottom of the furnace.
Mark
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11-25-2003, 05:49 AM
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#14
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2 Rivet Member
Join Date: Oct 2002
Posts: 39
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Hi all,
Have just read the above thread with interest. The furnace fan motor is a DC motor. Can dc motors slow down due to brush wear? Just a thought. maybe the fan intake is partly restricted with dust buildup or slowed down due to the dirt build up.
My thought would be to remove the fan motor - if possible and clean and replace the motor brushes. Can't do any harm and it might just make it work better.
Mariner
__________________
Mariner
1987 Avion 34V travel trailer (the other cigar tube).
2002 Dodge CTD 3500 Dually, Auto, 4x4
1986 F250 T/C 6.9 Diesel, LB,S/C,4x4,Auto
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11-25-2003, 07:04 AM
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#15
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Retired Moderator
1992 29' Excella
madison
, Wisconsin
Join Date: Aug 2002
Posts: 4,644
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Quote:
Originally posted by Mariner
Hi all,
Have just read the above thread with interest. The furnace fan motor is a DC motor. Can dc motors slow down due to brush wear? Just a thought. maybe the fan intake is partly restricted with dust buildup or slowed down due to the dirt build up.
My thought would be to remove the fan motor - if possible and clean and replace the motor brushes. Can't do any harm and it might just make it work better.
Mariner
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the fan runs quite well and moves alot of air, just not to the rear.
i'll look at the ductwork next time i'm up hunting.
really think it is the unequal length of the ductwork.
john
__________________
you call them ferrets, i call them weasels.
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11-25-2003, 08:13 AM
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#16
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4 Rivet Member
Join Date: Aug 2002
Posts: 372
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12 volt computer fans
John,
I ordered a half doz 12 volt fans that I put around the trailer. I also put resistors on all the existing fans except the heater.
One fan I mounted on the ceiling right behind the hall light and fed the 12 V from that light and installed a small switch on the end of the light for the fan - (So I can run either or both.)
My idea was when I am air conditioning the coach and the exhaust fans are closed, this little fan would help move the cold air back to the bedroom area.
I think the same would apply for the heat.
This could be an addition to straightening the hose to the rear for smoother airflow & heat.
(BTW - I think on the next coach I may use 24 volt fans so they will go at half speed and not use resistors.)
Steve in Savannah....
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11-25-2003, 09:21 AM
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#17
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Retired Moderator
1992 29' Excella
madison
, Wisconsin
Join Date: Aug 2002
Posts: 4,644
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steve
i already employ that idea when running the a.c.
got a small fan at wal mart with a clip on it, 12 volt with a 9 foot cord. less than 10 bucks.
i plug it into the rear tv outlet and clip it to the top of the room divider. it moves enough air to evenly cool the trailer.
i'm sure i can do the same when heating.
my main concern would be the tanks as brett pointed out. i have never had freeze problems down to 10 degrees.
right now my trailer is fully winterized so the tanks are not a problem.
i did notice if i run the heat strip and fan on the ac in tandem with the furnace the whole trailer is more evenly heated.
really it is just a minor problem, i think the louvered vent outlet is the way to go. very inexpensive fix. in addition to checking the vent hose route.
john
__________________
you call them ferrets, i call them weasels.
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11-25-2003, 10:34 AM
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#18
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Rivet Master
Austin
, Texas
Join Date: Oct 2002
Posts: 949
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I am not sure how they did it but on my Overlander somehow critters had gotten into the belly. They pulled insulation up thru the belly heat pipes into the main heat duct and had a few cozy little nests in the mid section of it, effectively plugging it up. I was told that there are screens to prevent this from happening but nonetheless it happened to me.
Even with a clear duct, the output at the rear bath grille is very minimal. I think it is just a bad design, the furnace should be more centrally located.
Chas
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11-25-2003, 12:16 PM
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#19
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Rivet Master
Join Date: Oct 2002
Posts: 917
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John,
My furnace has 6 duct outlets:
2 - 3" coming out the side into the living room
2 - 2" coming out the back that goes to the holding tanks
2 - 3" coming out the side that runs to bathroom & bedroom
I had two leaks going to both the bedroom and bathroom. One was with the connecting coupler and the other was a tear underneath the duct.
John
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