Air conditioner works, but not cool

[lewster]

Originally Posted by Minnie's Mate

You know, over the 4th we were at Ft. Wilderness and I forgot to lower the awning when we went to dinner (I usually lower the rear arm all the way when we leave). While we were gone there was a torrential down pour that resulted in the rear arm being bent all the way to the ground. It literally had a 90 degree bend in the inner segment that was extended. Well, Disney maintenance wouldn't loan me a ladder and I called several of the on-site repair companies and they advised me to find a ladder because they charged so much to come out. The minimum I think I was quoted was going to run about $240. There just happened to be a mobile service company at one of the sites across the road from me a few days later (I had managed to retract the awning, but couldn't get the rear up high enough to secure it) and the repair tech came over and got out a folding ladder that was the size of a six foot long 4X4. I was impressed with how small it folded and unfolded to a regular width A-frame ladder. So I ordered a five foot length one to fit under the sofa in our Airstream. If it was an 1/8th of an inch longer I would have to put it under at an angle, but it fits perfectly and leaves plenty of room to store other items.

Here is a link to the one I got:
5' Compact Folding Step Ladder - Camping World

I use the double-sided 6' version of that........very nice! Just be sure that you double check the ladder locks before ascending the ladder as they are sturdy when locked, but quite noodley and dangerous when not.

Be careful out there!!!!

[Minnie's Mate]

Originally Posted by lewster

I use the double-sided 6' version of that........very nice! Just be sure that you double check the ladder locks before ascending the ladder as they are sturdy when locked, but quite noodley and dangerous when not.

Be careful out there!!!!

Thanks, lewster. I had been contemplating one of the retractable-extendable type ladders, but I figured I get up on it and it would decide to retract on me and I'd come crashing to the ground! I actually think this one is easier to store and is a little less expensive. Now my next safety equipment is going to be some fold flat safety cones I saw on RV Road Trip with the battery powere flahing red light on top and some fold up safety triangles in case I ever have a flat or other break down 'cause you can never be too prepared and never have too many gadgets!

[SilverCabin]

Originally Posted by Minnie's Mate

Now my next safety equipment is going to be some fold flat safety cones I saw on RV Road Trip with the battery powere flahing red light on top and some fold up safety triangles in case I ever have a flat or other break down 'cause you can never be too prepared and never have too many gadgets!

If you have a Northern Tool near you Tom, you can get these items there at a competitive price.

Randy

[Minnie's Mate]

There is one in Stockbridge which is 30 or so miles away...in Atlanta that's just around the corner!

[starflyte1]

I just bought a digital voltmeter and checked the voltage in our tt. I thought that the $20 meter we had might not be reading correctly because at almost every campground, the power reading was low. 108-110, sometimes lower. It also read 108-110 at home at the 30amp outlet we just had added.

With the digital voltmeter it reads 115.6. We are leaving soon on a trip across the country on I-10, so now will have an accurate check of the power when using the ac.

Pat

[richinny]

that $20. meter might have a calibration adjustment on it somewhere.

[grantb4]

What are you going to calibrate it with?
At what voltage and air temperature are you not going to use the A/C?

[richinny]

Originally Posted by grantb4

What are you going to calibrate it with?
At what voltage and air temperature are you not going to use the A/C?

i usually calibrate them with a screwdriver, using a reliable meter as a guide. i'd use the best voltage i had available. as for air temerature, my a/c gets turned on at about 72 degrees fahrenheit so i guess i would not use it below that unless it was very humid.

[IndyAnne]

I'm bumping this thread because I need to check out my Dometic Brisk Air AC that I had installed on the 68 Trade Wind, in 2007. It worked very well until summer of 2009. I suspect low voltage and improper wiring led to burning out the start capacitor and PTCR. There could have been a fire.

The breaker switch heated to the point that little bubbles began to form in the plastic, smelled awful. Since that time, the compressor tries to start, but does not continue. Hot days are supposed to end this weekend for a while.

Improper wiring means the installers did not locate the factory 110v wire located in the roof, between ribs at the proper location. Instead, they ran an extension off the one breaker. Trying to run too many things through the same 15 amp circuit overloaded and created a low voltage situation.

I hope the compressor isn't a total loss. Before I found this thread, I just today had the AC removed from the roof, and I intend to install a Fantastic Vent in its place. This should be good for the rest of fall, tailgating and camping.

If the start cap. and PTCR repairs do the trick, I might put the AC on eBay. I was not comfortable with the slight sag on the roof caused by the AC.

I will continue to search the forums for options on locating the AC other than on the roof. As some have said, I've not been happy aesthetically with the big white bump on the top, I prefer the lines of the simple original shape.

I'll check back with a progress report and photos. This is a great thread, possibly could be a sticky on AC Start Capacitor and PTCR.

[lewster]

Originally Posted by IndyAnne

I'm bumping this thread because I need to check out my Dometic Brisk Air AC that I had installed on the 68 Trade Wind, in 2007. It worked very well until summer of 2009. I suspect low voltage and improper wiring led to burning out the start capacitor and PTCR. There could have been a fire.

The breaker switch heated to the point that little bubbles began to form in the plastic, smelled awful. Since that time, the compressor tries to start, but does not continue. Hot days are supposed to end this weekend for a while.

Improper wiring means the installers did not locate the factory 110v wire located in the roof, between ribs at the proper location. Instead, they ran an extension off the one breaker. Trying to run too many things through the same 15 amp circuit overloaded and created a low voltage situation.

I hope the compressor isn't a total loss. Before I found this thread, I just today had the AC removed from the roof, and I intend to install a Fantastic Vent in its place. This should be good for the rest of fall, tailgating and camping.

If the start cap. and PTCR repairs do the trick, I might put the AC on eBay. I was not comfortable with the slight sag on the roof caused by the AC.

I will continue to search the forums for options on locating the AC other than on the roof. As some have said, I've not been happy aesthetically with the big white bump on the top, I prefer the lines of the simple original shape.

I'll check back with a progress report and photos. This is a great thread, possibly could be a sticky on AC Start Capacitor and PTCR.

ANNE,

Your roof A/C unit should be isolated on it's own dedicated 20 amp breaker. That means that nothing else is drawing from that breaker of hot supply line. Any other configuration is against RVIA standards and just plain dangerous!!!

[IndyAnne]

Hi, Lew -- Thank goodness an overheated breaker stinks so bad! That's why I went ahead and had the AC removed today. And, have you seen the burned out Airstream on eBay now? That's a very scary scenario.

I don't have the equipment or overhead system to take care of a rooftop AC myself. If I'm going to have AC, I will have one I can deal with by myself.

Having a vintage Trade Wind is a choice that has a lot of other choices along the way, mostly about dealing with RV service centers that do not know Airstreams, don't want to work on vintage ones, and do not like taking instruction from a customer (especially, a female customer). In 2006, I insisted that the techs find the factory wiring, but they insisted they had it all under control. Hindsight: I should have either insisted flat out, or left before they touched it. I equivocated, didn't know then what I know now, and now I am paying the price. I really hate throwing good money after bad.

So, down it came today, and it's sitting in the bed of my truck, and tomorrow I will look for the start unit under the shroud. I'm looking for the replacement kit online now, just in case there is hope that the compressor isn't totally lost.

But, I learned a lot -- checking the voltage every time, monitoring the voltage, monitoring the wear and tear on the electrical system. In the long run, it's on me, to know what's happening and taking the steps to keep it safe.

Live and learn? or, learn and live

Originally Posted by lewster

ANNE,

Your roof A/C unit should be isolated on it's own dedicated 20 amp breaker. That means that nothing else is drawing from that breaker of hot supply line. Any other configuration is against RVIA standards and just plain dangerous!!!