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Old 09-22-2022, 06:59 PM   #1
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2007 30' Classic S/O
CARBONEAR , NL
Join Date: Sep 2022
Posts: 7
Air conditioner/Heat pump problem

Hy ,I am a new member looking for advise. I have a 2007 31 ft. s/o with an unusual problem. My duro therm unit will work forever as a heat pump with no issues. When the weather is warm, the air conditioner will also pump out cold air for 4-5 minutes as good as ever, then switches to dumping out warm air without any changes to the thermostat (CCC 5 button ) it will dump out warm air for 4-5 minutes then change back to cold ait once more. This alternating cycle continues over and over. Can any body offer a suggestion as to what may be the cause of this ? Thanks
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Old 09-22-2022, 08:18 PM   #2
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1949 22' Liner
1969 27' Overlander
1969 27' Overlander
Walnut Creek , California
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The compressor has an overload switch embedded in the windings. If the compressor overheats it will cycle on and off in about 5 minute intervals. Can you hear the compressor kick out and then come back on?
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Old 09-22-2022, 08:58 PM   #3
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2007 30' Classic S/O
CARBONEAR , NL
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Hi , thanks for your reply. I can't say there is any sound change when this occurs. I wondered the same thing but no noticeable sound change that I could hear. I was wondering if the reversing valve would cause this? Or maybe the Ambient temperature sensor ? My guess is the refrigerant level should be fine if it works so well as a heat pump. I'm only guessing .I was hoping for somebody to have had a similar problem that could shed some light on this.
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Old 09-22-2022, 09:08 PM   #4
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1949 22' Liner
1969 27' Overlander
1969 27' Overlander
Walnut Creek , California
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When the unit is in heating mode the compressor runs a lot cooler. When it’s in AC mode it’s generally hotter out. If you have an amp meter the current will drop very low when the compressor cuts out. If the reversing valve did switch between heating and cooling while running you would hear that for sure. It makes a big sound of gases switching sides. Very audible.
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Old 09-24-2022, 06:54 AM   #5
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2007 30' Classic S/O
CARBONEAR , NL
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When this happens, I can not detect any sound change . I've had a technical that works on heat pumps examine the unit and he can't seem to find any problem. He suggested replacing the circuit board. I am considering that. I also have been reading that the ambient sensor may be faulty or the thermistor may not have the correct resistance level. I tested this and it appears to be fine . Their are no available repair shops in my area so I'm on my own here. Any suggestions would be appreciated. Please help .Thank-you
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Old 09-24-2022, 07:17 AM   #6
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Waukesha , Wisconsin
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Just a wild guess here, but if that a/c has an anti-freeze sensor it's possible that it's picking up a false/errant signal that the coil is freezing which is causing it to shut down the compressor until the temp goes back up. What makes me think of this is the behavior is similar to when the anti-freeze sensor detects a frozen coil on an a/c I had in the past.
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Old 09-24-2022, 08:01 AM   #7
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1949 22' Liner
1969 27' Overlander
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The key to this puzzle is we need to know if the compressor is shutting down. This is easiest to do by measuring operating current with a clamp on meter in your panel.
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Old 09-30-2022, 07:02 PM   #8
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2007 30' Classic S/O
CARBONEAR , NL
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Hi Guys. I've been sick for a while but fine now. Latest update. Problem still there. I have determined the compressor stays running while this problem exists. Today we hooked the reversing valve up direct bypassing the circuit board using a jumper to the appropriate relay. Problem was the same. I'm wondering now if the reversing valve coil can function in intervals or if the coil itself is faulty on times. Any opinions ?
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Old 10-01-2022, 10:39 AM   #9
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1949 22' Liner
1969 27' Overlander
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Walnut Creek , California
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It is possible for the reversing valve to be the issue but it could be the control board dropping power to the reversing valve? We test these with a magnet. Applying the magnet shifts the valve to heat normally but it could be the opposite. I would apply the magnet and see! What is the model number of your DuoTherm. I can look up the wiring diagram
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Old 10-02-2022, 03:56 PM   #10
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2007 30' Classic S/O
CARBONEAR , NL
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Today the solenoid that operates the reversing valve was removed from the trailer and tested independently. When voltage was applied it first showed strong magnetism drawing a large nail into the hole where the post was. After a few minutes the coil heated up and lost all ability to magnetize the nail. .After cooling down the same steps were taken and the coil once again magnetized for a short time but again once heated the coil lost all magnetic properties. The model# for my unit is 630516.321 and the serial # is 43535107. Do I definitely have a faulty solenoid coil ?
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Old 10-02-2022, 04:12 PM   #11
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1949 22' Liner
1969 27' Overlander
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Walnut Creek , California
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Quote:
Originally Posted by glenm View Post
Today the solenoid that operates the reversing valve was removed from the trailer and tested independently. When voltage was applied it first showed strong magnetism drawing a large nail into the hole where the post was. After a few minutes the coil heated up and lost all ability to magnetize the nail. .After cooling down the same steps were taken and the coil once again magnetized for a short time but again once heated the coil lost all magnetic properties. The model# for my unit is 630516.321 and the serial # is 43535107. Do I definitely have a faulty solenoid coil ?
To confirm I would use a meter. Energize the coil until it drops out and check the voltage in. If you have voltage the coil is opening. Also when you energize the coil without a steel bar or screwdriver inside it can draw excessive current and burn out. So make sure you have a screwdriver or something else steel inside the coil when energized. Did you try a magnet applied to the stem where the coil used to be?
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Old 10-02-2022, 04:22 PM   #12
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1949 22' Liner
1969 27' Overlander
1969 27' Overlander
Walnut Creek , California
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Posts: 323
Check for power with a meter from terminal T2 on the board to any neutral. Both while operating normally and while malfunctioning. The voltage output should not change. If it does then the board is cutting the power to the coil.
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Old 10-02-2022, 06:16 PM   #13
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2007 30' Classic S/O
CARBONEAR , NL
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I'll be more specific about todays test. The solenoid is removed from the trailer. The two wires going to the solenoid are connected to a 110 volt plug- and electricity applied direct to the coil. With a steel insert similar in size to the post on the valve, the solenoid magnetizes quite well for 4-5 minutes then switches to nothing and the steel insert falls out. If the coil then is left to cool it will repeat this over and over.
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Old 10-02-2022, 06:18 PM   #14
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2007 30' Classic S/O
CARBONEAR , NL
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I checked the voltage from T2 to neutral before removing the solenoid and it did show 110 volts.
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Old 10-03-2022, 10:19 AM   #15
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1949 22' Liner
1969 27' Overlander
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Posts: 323
Replace the coil. It sounds like it’s overheating and the thermal fuse is shutting it off. Don’t test the new one like that. They need the steel cylinder in the center to limit the current. Most will smoke when you apply power to the open coil. If you have a decent magnet put it right on the steel cylinder. This will shift the valve and keep it there.
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Old 10-06-2022, 08:22 AM   #16
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1977 27' Overlander
2008 25' Classic
FINDLAY , OH
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Similar Problem

I am having a similar problem in my 2008 Classic. My starting capacitor is bad. It is supposed to be 55 micro F for the compressor and 15 micro F for the fan. The fan side measures good and the compressor only measures 1.5 nano F. I have ordered a new starting cap and will install it in a couple days. Of course, this begs the question, did something take out the starting cap? or did it just fail?
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Old 10-06-2022, 10:18 AM   #17
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1949 22' Liner
1969 27' Overlander
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Walnut Creek , California
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ShadyBill47 View Post
I am having a similar problem in my 2008 Classic. My starting capacitor is bad. It is supposed to be 55 micro F for the compressor and 15 micro F for the fan. The fan side measures good and the compressor only measures 1.5 nano F. I have ordered a new starting cap and will install it in a couple days. Of course, this begs the question, did something take out the starting cap? or did it just fail?
That 55 is the run cap. They fail from age, low voltage, high voltage, heat, cold, and everything else. Most are Chinese made and failures are very common. It is the very most problem in HVAC. Us service guys stock them all and we love to see a bad capacitor. Change it and call it good. You may want to stock another because the next full moon the ne one may fail too!
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