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Old 05-27-2008, 11:13 AM   #1
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2004 34' Classic
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Air conditioner breaker flipping

I have a duotherm AC unit that flips the inside breaker frequently...sometimes will run for 3 days without flipping, then other times will run for hours before flipping. Have had trailer in shop 3 times in 3 years to fix problem...to no avail. AC unit was replaced 1 year ago with 15,500 heat pump, but problem still exists. It is not park power problem, as this problem happens everywhere I go. Any suggestions????
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Old 05-27-2008, 11:20 AM   #2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cowpokemon1
I have a duotherm AC unit that flips the inside breaker frequently...sometimes will run for 3 days without flipping, then other times will run for hours before flipping. Have had trailer in shop 3 times in 3 years to fix problem...to no avail. AC unit was replaced 1 year ago with 15,500 heat pump, but problem still exists. It is not park power problem, as this problem happens everywhere I go. Any suggestions????
Try replacing the breaker which should be a 20amp I'ld suspect. Is there anything else on that line? Turn the breaker off and check to see what else doesn't work. Problem may not be the AC but something else pulling power when the compressor tries to start up.
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Old 05-27-2008, 11:20 AM   #3
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Welcome to the forums.
Has the breaker been replaced?
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Old 05-27-2008, 11:20 AM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cowpokemon1
I have a duotherm AC unit that flips the inside breaker frequently...sometimes will run for 3 days without flipping, then other times will run for hours before flipping. Have had trailer in shop 3 times in 3 years to fix problem...to no avail. AC unit was replaced 1 year ago with 15,500 heat pump, but problem still exists. It is not park power problem, as this problem happens everywhere I go. Any suggestions????
I had the exact same problem in a new, very expensive MoHo. After about 3 hours of A/C performance testing, amp draw tests on the compressor and fan, park power readings, etc, it came down to 2 possibilities, as all of the other readings were within the specs.

First, open your 120VAC panel on the trailer and check the tightness of the 30 amp hot lead feeding your 30 amp breaker. Then tighten EVERY breaker screw connection in the box.

Next, just to be on the safe side, replace the A/C's breaker with a new one, as they do tend to weaken with increased action. This is exactly what I did and it solved the Moho's problems with the forward heat pump.

Essentially, if this is the situation that you have, the loose connection(s) are causing a spike in the amperage which is blowing the breaker.

Hopefully, it will solve your problem too!
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Old 05-27-2008, 12:05 PM   #5
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The dealership that did the repair work "said" that they replaced the 20 amp breaker in the box. I will try the suggestions above and see if it fixes the problem. Also, any advise to cool the trailer more. I know the AC unit will only cool 20 degrees below ambient temp...which it seems to do...but only cools the trailer 10 degrees from outside temp. Tends to be a tad uncomfortable in 100+ degree weather. I currently am parked in shady spot which I'm sure helps some. Any more suggestions??/
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Old 05-27-2008, 01:05 PM   #6
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If you can get a hold of a digital remote thermometer, you can wait until the unit shuts down and check for a hot spot starting at the power cord plug and working inwards toward the A/C unit. This may help you find a loose connection which is what the problem sounds like from your description.
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Old 05-27-2008, 01:12 PM   #7
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I had an A/C unit that did the same thing (of course it was about 95 degrees on our vacation when it decided to stop working). I got it home & it worked again. Took it in to a shop & they found a loose screw. Cost alot of $ to tighten a screw, but it was worth it!
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Old 05-27-2008, 01:21 PM   #8
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hi cowpoke....

first, unless YOU are checking for low voltage at the parks, there is NO PROOF that isn't the issue.

during peak a/s time it is VERY COMMON to see voltage losses at many sites...

with a voltmeter INSIDE the trailer i can watch the available voltage flux...

second, IF u have the water heater on electric and the fridge on electric and use a few others gadgets...

there will be times when the loads coincide and exceed 30 amps...

for me this usually kicks the a/c breaker during a start up cycle...

replacing the breaker is a nice idea but check the voltage numbers often...

cheers
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Old 05-27-2008, 01:45 PM   #9
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I remember that from my specs on my unit, the Duo-Therm 15K Penguin unit has a normal draw of 18 amps when running compressor and full fan speed. Start up was a little over 20 amps.

As far as inside temps go in hot weather, if you have measured a 20 degree drop from intake to exhaust, the A/C unit is performing as designed. One thing to check however is your fan speed setting. If you are using the Duo-Therm digital thermostat and have the fan speed set on auto, understand that the fan will blow at the lower speed until your interior temperature rises to 10 degrees or more above set point. This is a real problem in hot climes. I like the auto setting since it minimizes the reintroduction of humidity into the air, when the compressor is not running. If it really hot outside, set the fan speed to high and see if that maintains a better temp in the trailer. I know my trailer will not hold set point in full sun 94+ weather running the fan in auto position.

If that isn't the problem then you may have some air intrusion issues. One possibility is the trailer door is allowing hot air in. I know on my '01 Safari I could stand outside and feel the cold air coming out the bottom of the door. The door was realigned to address this problem. Another thing the factory told me about was the potential of the air conditioner pulling hot air from the refrigerator compartment (if that area wasn't sealed properly). The other thing they noted was that some trailers have gotten out of the factory with the wrong sized A/C units. Are you sure you have a 15K unit??

As far as the breaker popping. I can pop campground 30 amp breakers by running the AC on full, having the water heater on electric and running the microwave. When we use the microwave when the AC is on, I either shut off the electric water heater or at least change it to gas only operation.

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