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Old 05-25-2010, 08:56 PM   #1
2 Rivet Member
1964 26' Overlander
Bentonville , Arkansas
Join Date: Apr 2010
Posts: 49
A/C upgrade and repair???

Let me say thanks for the great forum, it has been a valuable source of information and gave me many options in my rebuild.

I have a 1964 - 26' Overlander that has been a work in progress since purchasing for $1.00 four months ago.

The carpet, tile, rotten wood, ants, broken windows, lights, aluminum skin on the bottom of the camper, heater, water lines, upholstery, ... have been torn out, removed, or replaced. I am working to bring this camper back from a storage unit to a functioning camper.

Now I am on to the A/C, the original unit still works but the fan motor is dragging, has no power, and must be started by hand. The compressor seems to work and if you run the unit for just a minute you get cool air. So now I am at the famous cross roads. Repair or replace.

Like so many others that have been down the rebuild road. Once I touch it, I must fix it. So I am not sure if I can tear the unit down and save it.

Thougths, find a new fan motor and give it a try. Or just scrap the original unit and upgrade to a new unit. Several internet vendors have the basic 15K btu models for far less than I would expect to spend on a new shroud (the old one will come off in peices), and a new fan motor.

From reading all the past posts, a 15K unit should be more than enough for my 26 foot camper. Have I missed anything?

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Old 05-25-2010, 09:14 PM   #2
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1968 24' Tradewind
Louisville , earth
Join Date: Jun 2005
Posts: 4,635
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I would recommend the Carrier low profile model. I replaced old unit with one over the winter. It looks better and it appears that the lowered drag factor is giving me close to one MPG improvement when towing.

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Old 05-25-2010, 11:17 PM   #3
3 Rivet Member
1977 31' Excella 500
plano , Texas
Join Date: May 2006
Posts: 128
If your blower won't start, change the capacitor on it. If you decide to replace it, your unit only has 2 small holes for the freon lines and 1 hole for the blower shaft through the ceiling. For a newer unit, you would have to make a hole about 16x16 and properly brace it/etc. Make certain to research your options.

PS: if you replace it, being in the south go with the 15k.
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Old 05-26-2010, 02:09 PM   #4
2 Rivet Member
1964 26' Overlander
Bentonville , Arkansas
Join Date: Apr 2010
Posts: 49
Thanks for the information. I will try and carfully pull the shroud and see what I have. Any tips on doing this?

The shroud looks pretty rough - weather damage, sun brittle, and previous repairs. So I know I need to be careful. What was the original connecting points so that I can start there for a removing.

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Old 05-26-2010, 02:31 PM   #5
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1983 34' Excella
1967 24' Tradewind
Little Rock , Arkansas
Join Date: Nov 2006
Posts: 3,821
Images: 32
If the unit cools and the problem is the blower fan, I would repair rather than replace. Inland RV lists a replacement fiberglass AC shroud for 64-69 Airstreams on their website, see Inland RV Center Inc..

In addition to Inland RV, Vintage Trailer Supply, and Out-of-Doors-Mart for possible parts, you could also give Tweedy's in North Little Rock a call. No website, but their address is:

Tweedy's Inc
7400 Landers Road
North Little Rock, AR 72117-1607
(501) 835-1464

They have been around a long time. They sell to the public, but a lot of their business is to RV dealers who already know about them. Hence, no web presence.
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Old 05-26-2010, 04:46 PM   #6
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1968 24' Tradewind
Oxford, , Mississippi
Join Date: May 2009
Posts: 1,564
Be careful when on top removing the shroud and watch where you step. Stay on the ribs or you can put a dent in the top. Also when you have the shroud off there are screws that hold top cover of the AC on. A couple of mine were so rusty I had to cut new slot with a dremel tool to get them out. When you have the top off the AC, take some sealant up there with you so you can seal the holes where the freon and electrical lines go through the top of the trailer. Mine had big holes and the water would run down and come out over the street side window. Sealing the AC fixed the leak.
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Old 05-26-2010, 06:01 PM   #7
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1977 31' Sovereign
Dallas , Texas
Join Date: Jan 2004
Posts: 82
Originally Posted by Boondocker View Post
I would recommend the Carrier low profile model.
The first time I towed the trailer, I took off the a/c shroud with the help of a low hanging branch. The parts the branch didn't remove, crumbled when pulled down. After looking at the cost of replacement shrouds, we decided to replace the entire until with a 15k Carrier low profile unit. I am so glad we did for many reasons.

1. I'm sure the new unit is more energy efficient.
2. The new unit cools the trailer quicker.

and the most important to me reason...
3. The inside of the old unit was ICKY. It was full of black mold or goo or something. It was gross.
1977 Airstream Sovereign International
wbcci 7078 :: air 4125 :: tac TX-77
read about our adventures in renovation
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Old 06-04-2010, 11:53 PM   #8
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1977 31' Sovereign
1985 25' Sovereign
South Central Rockies... , "...'Stream'n the Dream" thru the USA
Join Date: Apr 2009
Posts: 533
Images: 39
I replaced the Coleman unit (which came with my rig) with the low-profile Carrier 15k BTU unit with a heat strip. Cleaner looking, low profile and cools down the rig nicely - mine's a '77 Soveriegn - 31-footer; yours will be a kin to a meat locker with the Carrier unit. I purchased mine from Inland RV...
Art - W0ABX
High Desert Country of the Rockies
'85 Sovereign 25'er

WBCCI: 2197; AIR #: 36503; TAC #: NM-5

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