A/C unit replacement

[Easyrider06]

Looking at replacing the Coleman Delta TX Model #6779 (13.5k BTU) in our 1989 32' Excella. Found some info on this site but it was dated (2007). Does anyone have any current recommendations for a non-ducted model A/C with a heat strip and in the 15k BTU size that would fit seamlessly into our unit? Was thinking about a second A/C in the rear bedroom but maybe a single upgrade to a larger unit would solve any cooling issues in warmer travels.

Regards,
James and Rebecca

[Glenritas]

I installed a Coleman Mach 8 in place of the new Dometic that was just installed the year before.

Why you ask , Because when I finally reinstalled the ceiling panels and deflector I discovered the the air flow was directed to the rear, sides and down but hardly any to the front because of the design of the return air.

Our living area is in the front so that was not going to work for us. The unit is for sale.

The Coleman Mach 8 blows to the front and rear and its return air draws from the bottom center. This unit does a great job on a hot day even on low.

What I found interesting was the noise inside was less with the Coleman and the outside was louder then the Dometic.

Oh and the Coleman has a low profile of only 8" as opposed to the Dometic's high 13" profile.

In this picture of the Dometic and the Maxxair powered vents the vents when closed are just 5" high. I don't have a picture of the Coleman on the trailer yet but it is lower then the Digital antenna.

[Easyrider06]

Glenritas,
Did you install the unit? I'm fairly handy(I think) but have never installed a roof A/C unit, changed a few shrouds, but never the unit itself...
James

[cwf]

Several threads on here about install. You can download the instructions from the manufacturer.

If your original had a thermostat, there may be possibility of upgrading that, too

[Glenritas]

Originally Posted by Easyrider06

Glenritas,
Did you install the unit? I'm fairly handy(I think) but have never installed a roof A/C unit, changed a few shrouds, but never the unit itself...
James

Hmm, Lets see, climb up on the roof remove and carefully lower the Dometic a/c to the ground undamaged then climb down.

Try dragging a 95# awkward a/c unit up a ladder getting it on the roof and climbing up and positioning it. NO Thanks.

Heck no I had the RV shop do it . They have a fork lift and never set foot on the roof to install it. Took them only minutes to get the Dometic off and get the Coleman in position. The whole job only took about an hour and a half to remove the Dometic and install the Coleman.

[rodsterinfl]

Have you seen this? Looks very promising. Ironically in their study they used the exact db app that I used to test the ducted air Airstream and my Dometic unit. Note the figures. The other wow is the power requirement. Another piece of info I learned while digging around on other RV forums today:

http://www.tvformyrv.com/content/Atw...tation2014.pdf

[lewster]

Sorry, but I have real issues with their stated amp draw. I have installed, replaced or tested over 300 roof A/C unit in the last 10 years and the highest amp draw I have seen from either a Dometic, RVP/Coleman or old Carrier roof unit was a total of 16.2 amps...... unless the unit had a mechanical issue (the reason I was there initially). I have no idea where they get over 18 amps from the Brisk Air II.

The RLA, or running load amperage stated on the data tags of these units are rated at the ARI standard of 95ºF. No mention in the test as to what the ambient temperature was. If a unit has a data tag rating of 13.2 for the compressor and 3.2 for the single blower motor (actual specifications vary by manufacturer and unit), by my math that equals 16.4 amps.

Further, the compressor RLA DROPS at ambient temperatures below 95ºF......resulting in even lower total amp draws. In addition, a 2000 watt generator has approx. 16.6 amp running amp capacity AT FULL LOAD RATED OUTPUT. This does not take into consideration the much larger transient load when a compressor starts. They stated that it could operate on a single 2000 watt generator....BUT DID THEY DO IT??????

I suspect that the other 'results' are similarly spurious. Also, was this done by an independent testing facility, or done by Atwood simply using a testing facility.

SHOW ME THE MONEY!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Only totally independent, side by side unbiased testing will suffice, not manufacturer sales propaganda.

[rodsterinfl]

Understood. Naturally there are tests and there are uh, tests. The test you refer would also be different than as they call it "real world" testing. I do not claim any understanding of the workings of AC units; however, I do know that my new truck ac, for example, pulls harder the first five minutes or so then settles down I cannot say that it goes over stated power draw, just an observation. Think about it though even the rated "running" amp draw is over 3 amps lower than the Brisk II. It is using two separate motors and has a different air disbursement. I just find it interesting. Their claim is that the two fan motors can better adjust to need- especially the condenser fan. Also, the air distribution is designed for quietness. They are getting excited over this on I believe RV forum and some have installed them and claim the noise is much lower. You might be installing Atwoods soon!

[lewster]

RVP/Coleman has been using 2 motors of their Mach 8 for 3 years now. No 'innovation' there.


Lew Farber
RVIA/RVDA Nationally Certified Master Tech
Master Tech Energy Systems, Inc.
AM Solar Certified Installation Center
Lifeline Batteries**Magnum Inverters
541-490-6357

[J. Morgan]

My ancient Armstrong uses separate blower and condenser motors....




Brevi tempore!

[CaCraig]

I just had the Atwood 16K equivalent installed this summer. I ran it with my eu2000i in Palm Springs when it was 110 degrees outside and it was fine.