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Old 06-23-2009, 08:39 AM   #21
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Thanks, Andy, that's the fore-aft attachment info I was needing!

I probably will go with wood, though, given the bow in the roof on the older AS. Maybe I'll ante up for a big chunk of more rot-proof stuff for ribs.

Lynn
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Old 06-23-2009, 08:54 AM   #22
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Interesting, I just added an A/C to my "59.
I found that I already had alum C channel running for & aft between the bows but about 1 1/2" away from each side of the 14" vent hole so I got 1 1/2" square alum tube (wall thickness 1/4") and used this to frame all sides of the 14" hole. There was not enough curve in the cross wise 14" to make a difference and this gave me solid framework where the A/C gasket is being compressed. Cut 1" holes for wiring with a hole saw.
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Old 06-24-2009, 10:55 AM   #23
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I am abou to replace my unit in my 72 ambassador. the carrier unit seems to be the best? any suggestions?
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Old 06-28-2009, 04:05 PM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by eubank View Post
...One question I have is this: On the two wooden ribs running fore to aft, are they attached to the two aluminum traverse stringers fore and aft of the hole? Or do the four wooden ribs just attach only immediately around the hole?...
Andy may be right about using aluminum and attaching the ribs that run fore and aft to the cross ribs, but I think the gain is marginal. If you do a good job installing the wood, tight screws and all, plus ensure that water can't get on the wood, it will last longer than you will. I think you'll find that if you merely bracket the 14" vent hole all around with 1-1/2 thick by 1-3/4" (the shell thickness), that after you screw the inner and outer skins to the wood you'll be able to do a pullup on the edge. It will easily support the a/c.

Besides, tell me how you're going to attach the longitudinal braces to the cross pieces (the ribs)? If you don't put some flanges in, then just running the braces up to them won't add substantial rigidity to the roof.

I have seen the same thing REGGIEMON has seen, eg, not much curve in some of the roofs. Don't have a clue why, as all the ribs should be the same curve. We just did Richard's a/c at the Albuquerque rally and I cut his cross pieces to have 5/8" or so arch across 18" and it wasn't enough--we had a very slight wrinkle in the outer skin because it wanted more arch. I think you need to trial fit the arch, but I recommend 3/4" of curve

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Old 06-28-2009, 07:05 PM   #25
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Originally Posted by Zeppelinium View Post
Andy may be right about using aluminum and attaching the ribs that run fore and aft to the cross ribs, but I think the gain is marginal. If you do a good job installing the wood, tight screws and all, plus ensure that water can't get on the wood, it will last longer than you will. I think you'll find that if you merely bracket the 14" vent hole all around with 1-1/2 thick by 1-3/4" (the shell thickness), that after you screw the inner and outer skins to the wood you'll be able to do a pullup on the edge. It will easily support the a/c.

Besides, tell me how you're going to attach the longitudinal braces to the cross pieces (the ribs)? If you don't put some flanges in, then just running the braces up to them won't add substantial rigidity to the roof.

I have seen the same thing REGGIEMON has seen, eg, not much curve in some of the roofs. Don't have a clue why, as all the ribs should be the same curve. We just did Richard's a/c at the Albuquerque rally and I cut his cross pieces to have 5/8" or so arch across 18" and it wasn't enough--we had a very slight wrinkle in the outer skin because it wanted more arch. I think you need to trial fit the arch, but I recommend 3/4" of curve

Zep.
Zep.

I agree that using the aluminum, does not offer far out benefits.

But, it does off a singular benefit that wood cannot possible give.

That wood, in a hidden area, can, because of moisture, gather mold. That mold then would, however slight, be in the exhaust air from the AC.

I don't think, anyone, would want to take the risk of having mold in the AC exhaust. There is no guarantee that it won't happen.

Bottom line, the aluminum is the only choice, especially for health reasons.

We have seen mold in that area in a few cases. To me, one case is more than I wish have to deal with.

Andy
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Old 06-30-2009, 07:36 AM   #26
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Thumbs up

One clue to this is not all AS trailers are the same shape.
One of the things we like about our 18 footer is the headroom and spacious feel to the interior.
I am going to show pictures of my 14" vent cut out but I am sure this will not apply to everyones trailer.
I agree with Andy on the mold. Living in South Texas on the coast with our constant humidity, it is a valid concern. (thanks for the new axle installation, Andy. This is one sweet towing trailer!)

First picture is looking aft. The bow is about 15" away & you see a flat "C " channel rivited in place by someone before me.
2nd & 3rd picture are side views showing "C" channel also installed by someone else with interior & exterior rivits
When I tightened down the A/C bolts the exterior surface would start to curve down ward.
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Old 06-30-2009, 07:40 AM   #27
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Here is a picture looking forward. In this direction the bow is only 2 " away from the vent cut out. You can see the bow roof curve here.
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Old 06-30-2009, 07:50 AM   #28
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View to the front bow.
Next is the alum square tube installed. sorry about the focus!
You can get an idea of the curvature here also.
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Old 06-30-2009, 07:55 AM   #29
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Exterior shots.
Vintage Airstream blasphemy........Damn A/C sitting on roof.

I did something to put it in stelth mode........more to come!

Anyway, hope this helps clear up some of what we are discussing & cussing.
Cheers!
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Old 06-30-2009, 08:02 AM   #30
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nice!!

Your set for the summer now! How about a profile picture from the side....? I liked my Carrier low profile.
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Old 06-30-2009, 09:17 AM   #31
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Back to the original thread topic......I was lucky to have a inside office with ply top covered ceiling. (see the picture above) We took the A/C up a ladder to the roof & then carefully set a 15' 4x6 length wise on the trailer, off center across the bows. Then we slid the A/C on its bottom foam packing across a 3/4' ply ramp that was transversing the roof & board on the trailer. Once on the trailer it was easy to manuver the A/C off the foam base & into place.
If I did not have the building available, Zep's solution is what I would have tried.

MR, this trailer is so tall that you have to really get back to get a good pic of the A/C. BUT I still didn't like the look untill I painted the A/C Titanium Silver to make it less of an eyesore.
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Old 07-14-2010, 04:26 PM   #32
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couldn't find the install site

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Piece of cake.

Maybe it was the spinach I had that morning, but the Carrier AirV was really manageable. 2 people and it was done in no time.

Here is my installation... AC INSTALL
Couldn't find the install site. please repost. Thanks.
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Old 02-26-2011, 04:33 AM   #33
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I have not done this yet, but I will have to down the road. So I have a question. Has anyone tried to make a quad-pad sort of rig, and lift the AC unit via pullies up in the air, tie it off at the AC unit which would be a foot higher then the trailer roof height, then back the trailer under that location, and lower it safely into place? Think of the quad pad as 4 long poles, like 12'-16' long, 2 pairs attatched at the top, and spead at the bottom. Then a pole that spans between the 2 sets wide enough for the trailer to fit under, then some rop attaching the bottoms to each across the span that can be run over, but will hold them in place. Also some "support" at the top joints so it does not rock over and fall. I can not really explain that well whats in my head, but the old BSA lashings come to mind to make it stable. All this is probably more work then a couple of people and a few ladders.. Just random thinking I suppose. I'll probably use real construction scaffolding when I get to mine.
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Old 02-26-2011, 10:59 AM   #34
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...Has anyone tried to make a quad-pad sort of rig, ...
You will spend more time doing the quad-pad than it's worth, IMHO. A/C's aren't really that heavy. The two ladders and a cross-plank is more stable than you think. Two people can easily get an a/c up the ladder and onto the plank. Even one person, if they're a little nutty and ignore risk...

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Old 02-26-2011, 05:48 PM   #35
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I wouldn't advise the one-person approach, though. Even with a big scaffold, getting the new AC up on top was a MAJOR task.

Lynn
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Old 05-06-2012, 11:29 AM   #36
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my son has got a boom truck going to replace mine with that.
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Old 05-07-2012, 10:34 AM   #37
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Duuu.... I never even thought of that. I have a 60' bucket truck... That would be beyond easy to use as a crane to lift it into place. Getting any form of help where I am is impossible. So I think of ways to do most things solo.

C.
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