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Old 06-04-2018, 06:26 PM   #21
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After reading all this stuff, I stand by my "fix". Jim
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Old 06-04-2018, 06:53 PM   #22
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I have had a blocked drain tube several times over the years. Sometimes a couple times a year. I've reamed with weed whacker string and wire, I bought a fiberglass electric fish tape to ream with, blown with compressed air, sucked with a vacuum, cussed and sworn. None of this solve the issues that I have had, insects getting in the tube (spiders, mud dauber wasps, etc)

A few years ago I made a small purse out of fiberglass window screen. I slid that purse up onto the drain tube and used a screw clamp to hold it in place. That was on my Safari, 4 or 5 years ago. I did the same thing on my Excella 3 years ago. Neither trailer's drain tube has been blocked since I did this. The Excella has been towed a few thousand miles since, the Safari probably 15,000 to 20,000.
(by saying this publicly, I've probably jinxed myself and now both will be blocked )
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Old 06-05-2018, 08:54 AM   #23
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Crud grows in air conditioners in humid areas like VA and FL. I have always wished that the units were designed for easy cleaning. I have wondered whether it would be possible to remove the slide put filters and add bleach or some anti-fungal cleaner to the cups or tray that collects the condensation using a squeeze bottle with a 90° angled squirt tube (like coaches use to hydrate players during a time out).

Anyone know? I took the inside cover off once. Basically lots of pieces of gray plastic fell on my head, and everything I touched broke... HEAT or UV had just eaten the insides out. AND when I bought the EB from Colonial it was less than a year old... the compressor on the A/C blew at the dealership on my overnight there, Colonial pulled another A/C from a new trailer on their lot and put it in within a few hours (impressive service) and the incurable leak started about a year later... just AFTER the two year warranty ran out. I went to the mothership for a panel repair and an upgrade or two, and they did replace the innards for free since the A/C was itself a replacement unit. Lucky again... well not so much with the hit and run driver but
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Old 06-06-2018, 05:09 AM   #24
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Foiled Again: Many people here in the "humidity state" use AC condensate drip pan tablets in their homes. (check Amazon or Home Depot... many types available). In an earlier post in this thread I mentioned that I'm thinking of using them in the AS. They dissolve slowly in contact with water and kill algae to prevent its growth from blocking condensate drain lines. The problem is they dissolve... and need to be replenished. In a home AC unit where the condenser is often directly behind the filter (typical when the air handler is installed vertically in a garage) or is easy to access, the tabs are added when the filter is changed... you know... every month like the owners manual says!

I've only disassembled my topside unit far enough to see the cups where the tablets would have to be placed once. As of this afternoon when I install the replacement control board it will be twice, but I'm getting ahead of myself plus that will be a rant for a different post about the Dometic Penguin II... look for it.... it will be called "What's that burning smell and why is it so hot in here, but at least the AC isn't dripping anymore". I digress. Adding new tablets to the cups every 6 weeks through the cooling season in Florida (which runs January through December where we live) is probably worse than occasionally pulling the interior grille, popping the tee joint open and flushing the lines.

I'm intrigued by RFPs suggestion above about a cleaning port. It may be possible to expand on that to create a flushing port. Envision a combination of a new, small, plastics line to each of the drain cups combined with Foiled Again's squeeze bottle with approved AC algicide (they sell that for acute treatment while the tabs are for the chronic condition). With the flushing tubes plugged and hidden but easy to access and the solution in a bottle, it would be easy to give a monthly shot of cleaner and hopefully avoid the blockages.

I think we are talking ourselves toward some solutions. I like the forums! You know I'll be looking while I'm topside today.
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Old 06-07-2018, 11:14 AM   #25
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Gammadog. Thanks for looking! I don't do Roof any more except when I can use a friend's scissor lift, which isnt often. Anything that could be adapted for inside treatment would be great.

So far the wet dry vac works so I don't have a solid plug, but to keep it that way I had better do it more often.

Paula
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Old 06-07-2018, 12:01 PM   #26
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Bummer

So, this morning, I drilled the curb side cup for a 1/2" well nut. The procedure is straightforward and dirt simple, and it works just as envisioned.

The ONLY problem is that I still have water on the roof from that side and I am 99.99% sure that I have a cracked drain cup outlet connector. Forum member GMFL had the same water-on-the-roof problem and lifted his A/C only to discover a cracked cup outlet. Again, I'm sure I suffer the same thing, and will have to lift the A/C to replace the busted-from-the-factory cup.

Bummer.

As for the "mod" to allow drain access (for cleaning OR for introducing bleach or whatever), it works perfectly (do it from a ladder, no need to go onto the roof). Here are some photos, including a couple of shots of my ladder, modified to give a nice padded support against the side of the Airstream.
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Old 06-08-2018, 04:05 AM   #27
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RFP: I see you're a rivet master (and from your ingenuity and sharing, I see why) so you probably know that Lewster posts a lot here including about AC leaks. I recall reading a post of his that described how Airstream uses a single gasket installation for the Penguin II while other RV manufacturers use Dometic's standard two-gasket approach. His belief expressed in that post was that many AS leaks would be avoided with the second gasket. If you have to pull your roof top unit anyway, you may want to look into that post to see if it makes sense to install the second gasket Lewster described.
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Old 06-08-2018, 07:38 AM   #28
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RFP,
Nice work. Would you mind sharing a source and name for those plugs. Looks like the same size as live well plug, but have not seen that type with the SS screw.

GammaDog is correct about the two gaskets. Lewster recommended that to me. The cups on the AC I installed set about 1" above the metal. I wonder if contact with the roof (bounce/shock) while in transit might crack the plastic cup.
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Old 06-08-2018, 10:04 AM   #29
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Originally Posted by A W Warn View Post
RFP,
Nice work. Would you mind sharing a source and name for those plugs. Looks like the same size as live well plug, but have not seen that type with the SS screw.

GammaDog is correct about the two gaskets. Lewster recommended that to me. The cups on the AC I installed set about 1" above the metal. I wonder if contact with the roof (bounce/shock) while in transit might crack the plastic cup.
Good day, Alan

I bought the well nuts at my local Ace Hardware; also the 1/4-20 stainless machine screws and 1/4" stainless washers. I am fortunate that my local Ace Hardware is one of those that stock all kinds of really hard-to-find goodies.

You can buy them from McMaster-Carr... these are the ones: https://www.mcmaster.com/#93495a321/=1d72xi4

This is really a no-brainer... the "missing gasket" is simply stupid on the part of Airstream.
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Old 06-08-2018, 10:11 AM   #30
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GammaDog View Post
RFP: I see you're a rivet master (and from your ingenuity and sharing, I see why) so you probably know that Lewster posts a lot here including about AC leaks. I recall reading a post of his that described how Airstream uses a single gasket installation for the Penguin II while other RV manufacturers use Dometic's standard two-gasket approach. His belief expressed in that post was that many AS leaks would be avoided with the second gasket. If you have to pull your roof top unit anyway, you may want to look into that post to see if it makes sense to install the second gasket Lewster described.
Good day, G'Dog... thank you so much for bring this to my attention.

Yep, a close inspection shows that I, too, have just one gasket installed by Airstream. For the first time, I am thoroughly irritated at Airstream for willfully choosing to disregard a manufacturer's clear instructions. D***it, they chose to create a problem.

As you can see from the photos I posted earlier in this thread, my "cups" are tight down on the roof aluminum. Also, looking inside, I can see that the drain tube from the offending side is "squeezed" by the gasket quite a bit... enough to stop flow? I don't know, but it is squeezed.

Sheesh... Now, I've got to figure out how I can fix this all by myself. I wonder if I could remove all of the interior parts, lift - and prop up - the A/C and do the "re-gasketing" by working through the hole.

I'm open to any and all suggestions... I am determined to get this thing installed RIGHT, and, as I said, I'll likely be doing it alone.

So irritating.
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Old 06-08-2018, 10:35 AM   #31
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When I had my new Dometic 15K unit I decided to go with the drain cups. After it was installed some of the condensate would drip on the roof. It was more apparent if the trailer was even slightly not level. Then drain kit Dometic supplied has unequal hose lengths before the T. The hose from the T had a slight U before connecting to the trailers drain tube. I discussed this with Paul at A&P and he installed equal tube lengths upstream from the T and took out the slight U in the downstream tube which I felt was creating a small P trap and restricting water flow. Making these changes seemed to correct the issue even it the trailer was not perfectly level. We also punched low pressure warwe up the drain tube and verified the flow back out.
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Old 06-08-2018, 10:47 AM   #32
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< snip > I discussed this with Paul at A&P and he installed equal tube lengths upstream from the T and took out the slight U in the downstream tube ... < snip >
Thanks Kelvin, for reminding that Paul is just 40 miles up the road and would make short work of this drain nonsense!

Glad you got you condensate woes all solved... I hope to join you soon in that achievement.

You guys doing OK? Linda had back surgery last Tuesday, so we are homebound for a while (?)... hoping to be able to get back to Blue Spruce in mid to late August.
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Old 06-08-2018, 11:52 AM   #33
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Quote:
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When I had my new Dometic 15K unit < snip >
Kelvin,

Did Paul install using the "two gaskets" as per Dometic's instructions?
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Old 06-08-2018, 12:59 PM   #34
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Well our 2011 Dometic 13,500 AC unit went out last month. I decided to do the replacement myself. Worked with Dometic and Airstream and got the Penguin unit from PPL Motorhomes for $985. Has to order the gasket and cup set and paid around $95 for it, a rip off as it is just the gasket, three bits of pipe and two cups. I later found Amazon had it for around $55 free shipping.
Anyhow fitting the gasket and cups involved cutting a hole for the two lines through the upper gasket, then sealed using Airstreams recommended sealant.
Once on the roof and positioned, it was easy to hook up with the exception of the drain lines. If only one gasket is used then when tightening the unit down the gasket will crush the drain lines, this set up has to have the extra gasket in place. Now the biggest issue for me was where to connect the T supplied, I went through various scenarios because the final drain line must not buckle, so I used a long sweep on it. Got to re connect the bottom plate carefully because the power lines and especially the 120 Volt metal box can easily get in the way and crush the drain lines. So I gradually tightened the five bolts and using my hands moved the offending lines out of the way of the condensate lines. Tightening the gasket started to worry me, they said 50 Inch lbs of torque. Well I watched the gasket get crushed and kept looking on the roof and was getting worried as I had not even heard a click on the torque wrench and it had it set at its lowest 20 inch lbs !!!!!
I gave up tightening it any more because the roof was starting to show bowing.
Anyhow when the unit is running you can see the draining from below. I will re check the five bolts at a later date.
One thing not mentioned here, the cups are just screwed into the unit, no gasket. There are two small water run out areas built into each cup in case there is a blockage.
It took three of us to get the unit on the roof, I am sixty. Used a step ladder and a straight ladder, distanced apart the length of the unit and some. Lifted one end of the unit onto the top of the step ladder, I held the opposite end, two climb the ladder and lift the unit on the roof. Easy......
And by the way the unit is quieter and starts easier than the old one.
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Old 06-08-2018, 01:41 PM   #35
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RFP View Post
Good day, Alan

I bought the well nuts at my local Ace Hardware; also the 1/4-20 stainless machine screws and 1/4" stainless washers. I am fortunate that my local Ace Hardware is one of those that stock all kinds of really hard-to-find goodies.

You can buy them from McMaster-Carr... these are the ones: https://www.mcmaster.com/#93495a321/=1d72xi4

This is really a no-brainer... the "missing gasket" is simply stupid on the part of Airstream.
Thanks!
Great idea! Since it is such a simple solution I might do it too, even though I've not had that problem. ….. yet.
An ounce of prevention....
Did you use something like Wet and Forget in the cups, or bleach?
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Old 06-08-2018, 01:50 PM   #36
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KJRitchie View Post
When I had my new Dometic 15K unit I decided to go with the drain cups. After it was installed some of the condensate would drip on the roof. It was more apparent if the trailer was even slightly not level. Then drain kit Dometic supplied has unequal hose lengths before the T. The hose from the T had a slight U before connecting to the trailers drain tube. I discussed this with Paul at A&P and he installed equal tube lengths upstream from the T and took out the slight U in the downstream tube which I felt was creating a small P trap and restricting water flow. Making these changes seemed to correct the issue even it the trailer was not perfectly level. We also punched low pressure warwe up the drain tube and verified the flow back out.
I installed mine myself. I had a similar issue. It took some experimenting to figure out the problem. I don't think it is about equal length as much as getting the tube to lay correctly once the cover is installed. Those tubes on mine were so long they would kink/bend partially closed.
In the last year or two the Dometic installation instructions have been changed to include directions to cut the tube at the point where connects to the cups, short enough to keep tube flat where it is crosses over the air distribution box.
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Old 06-10-2018, 10:04 AM   #37
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I had the same problem, so I did some research on the Airstream forums. One AS owner explained that the A/C condensate cups drain through clear plastic tubing routed down through the skin of the AS to the the wheel well. Apparently the tubing is bent to make a 90 degree turn up under the lower cover, and the tubing often gets kinked in the process. I removed my lower A/C cover so I could see and access the tubing and, sure enough, the tubing was kinked shut. I cut the kink out and replaced it with a barbed 90 degree elbow I bought at the hardware store. Problem solved!

Oh and I also put an insect screen on the end of the tubing in the wheel well, just in case.
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Old 06-10-2018, 06:19 PM   #38
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There should be a plastic cup on each side the air conditioner. The cups collect the condensate and are drained by the tube. If the cups are in contact with the roof, they can crack and allow the condensate to run out onto the roof. Replacing the cups requires removing the air conditioner. This is a job for Airstream service. Make sure they have the proper gasket for a re-install. IT IS A SPECIAL GASKET. If your local service dealer try’s to jury rig the install, you will have nothing but problems. I know, I had to take my Airstream back to Jackson Center after my local Airstream dealer tried to juryrig the re-install.
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Old 06-10-2018, 06:47 PM   #39
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There should be a plastic cup on each side the air conditioner. The cups collect the condensate and are drained by the tube. If the cups are in contact with the roof, they can crack and allow the condensate to run out onto the roof. Replacing the cups requires removing the air conditioner. This is a job for Airstream service. Make sure they have the proper gasket for a re-install. IT IS A SPECIAL GASKET. If your local service dealer try’s to jury rig the install, you will have nothing but problems. I know, I had to take my Airstream back to Jackson Center after my local Airstream dealer tried to juryrig the re-install.
I wonder if Jackson Center "re-installed" your air-conditioner correctly. If they re-installed like they are installing the air-conditioners on new trailers, you may still have problems. Actually, I would not let Airstream Service do this work for me unless I was assured that Dometic's instructions would be followed to the letter.

Airstream IS NOT installing these air-conditioners per Dometic's clear instructions. Proper installation required TWO gaskets. The use of only one (as is Airstream's practice) leads to a high probability of one or both condensate drain lines being "squeezed" and perhaps will lead to a leaky A/C installation, and perhaps the cups themselves being broken or otherwise compromised. This "two gasket" protocol has been discussed elsewhere in the Forum, and you can read it for yourself in the instructions PDF attached below.

The drip cup kit can be purchased here (notice it comes with ONE gasket): https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

The second gasket here: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Dometic's installation instructions are in the attached PDF. http://www.vintagetrailersupply.com/...structions.pdf
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Old 06-11-2018, 05:50 PM   #40
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Glad to see an "improvement" in the A/C drain system. Our 2008 did clog once and I blew it out with an air compressor. If you are worried about two much pressure, many compressors can be set to lower pressure. If pressure can't be reduced, just let some of the air leak where you put the hose to the bottom of the tube. And with the wonderful T system, one person can be in the trailer with a finger over one tube while another runs the compressor. Then reverse finger to make sure the other side is clear.

When ours got blocked, it started dripping inside. I think I first blew it out with my massive lung power and it worked. Made sure with compressor once I was home. But if the new "improved" system only leaks onto the roof, so what? Let is wash the roof and take care of it at your leisure.

Another way to wash the roof is to backflush the black tank until water comes out of the vent near the toilet. A veritable water fall down the side of the trailer. A water feature that will make your trailer the talk of the campground. Happens most often at campgrounds with very high water pressure that fills the black tank faster than you can imagine. And how handy—you may want a shower after cleaning the black tank, but you can get one at the same time!

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