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Old 08-01-2020, 01:18 PM   #1
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2003 A/C-H/P leaking

Hi.
Used trailer, I've had it a little over a year, a/c has worked fine up till now. I jinxed it by talking about it in another thread :/. Went to bed Thursday night and noticed the floor was really wet, a/c leaking. Unfortunately it also curled the edges of the pergo floor that was in the puddle. So taking things apart, obviously prior owners had trouble also, lots of sealant. I did find a split in the condensate pan, its actually nice to identify the problem source. So I'm starting to clean up the caulk and try to do a better temperary repair job. Thread in progress, I'll post pics.
Happy Repairs, forced smile.

Edit, things are sharp up there, I now have a finger on each hand bleeding, need gloves I guess.
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Old 08-01-2020, 01:39 PM   #2
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Ok, three fingers bleeding now. But the old caulk came off relatively easy. It didnt stick to the plastic very well. I'm going to scrub it up now. Anyone out there use something (sealant) successfully to repair one of these?
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Old 08-01-2020, 03:09 PM   #3
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Hi.
I was poking thru my sealants and...
EternaBond to the rescue!
I scrubbed the pan with windex, mineral spirits, and alcohol first.
It's tough working with eternabond when its 85-deg, that stuff is sticky, and dosent want to release its peal. It seems to be sticking well, I could get the gray goop to squeeze out from its white cover. It's flexable & I think (& hope) it will hold in this spot. There is another crack on the other side on an inside corner. Not sure I can get eternabond into the corner properly.
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Old 08-01-2020, 03:13 PM   #4
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I used jb weld quir a few years ago. Has held up so far.
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Old 08-01-2020, 04:06 PM   #5
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Hi dznf0g
Thanks, I may need to do that at some point.
I like that the eternabond is flexible & sticky but time will tell.
I kind of see this as temporary, I'd like to replace the a/c at some point in the future.
More pics, it's really hard to manipulate the tape as it sticks to EVERYTHING it touches, including my fingers. It's not pretty but I think it'll hold. I'm going to run to the hardware store and get a garden hose - nipple adapter to connect and flush the condensate line while its accessible.
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Old 08-01-2020, 04:40 PM   #6
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I found an adapter in my hardware junk box.
Flushing the condensate line buried in the wall as I'm typing this.
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Old 08-01-2020, 06:21 PM   #7
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The condensate hose has a pretty deep scuff in it. The gromet was sloppy in the hole & the condensate hose is a tad short. I pulled the gromet thru with needle nose pliers and pried its restraint tabs clear of the hole, its secure now. I put automotive electrical loom over the hose for added protection. I wrapped several layers of electrical tape around the drain hose, under the screw clamp for some extra wear protection. I didn't pull the hose tight, I didn't want it pulling on the plastic drain pan. I got 3 of the 4 barbs, I think it will be ok. Protecting this existing hose that is buried in the walls is a major priority. A/C is running now without its cover, I'm observing. I will try to remember to edit this thread for success/failure in the future.
Happy Travels.
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Old 08-01-2020, 09:33 PM   #8
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AC Shroud

AC's been running for a couple of hours, there is the tiny-est sign of water where the plastic barb fits into the condensate pan. Dang. I might run to the hardware store and get some JB weld.

Are these condensate pans available anymore? Where?

AC Shroud
Several cracks, little hole on top front corner.
Replacement recomendations?

Thanks.
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Old 08-01-2020, 09:48 PM   #9
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I repaired the crack in my pan with either JB Weld Water Weld epoxy putty or Quik Steel, which is about the same stuff. I don't recall which I used, but it's been water tight for 2 or 3 years.
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Old 08-02-2020, 12:57 PM   #10
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Ok going hardcore.

The best thread I found on this subject.
https://www.airforums.com/forums/f427/air-conditioner-is-dripping-152606.html

I cleaned up yesterday's work. I went to autozone to pick up some jbweld plastic weld. I also found this tacky fine aluminum mesh in the bondo department. I'm going to origami it around the end and coat everything with plastic weld. I was hoping the barb was threaded into the pan, it is not, there must be a nut behind it, it just spins. So dont try to remove it, learn from my mistake.

I know why these crack in this area. I was watching last night as the ac cooled things down. The cracks I could see were getting larger as the pan got colder. The pan tries to shrink but both ends are basically fixed. This is the only area of the pan that can flex, thus cracks over time.
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Old 08-10-2020, 10:13 PM   #11
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Condensate Pan Repair

Hi
The pan was brittle around the area of work. Working the area seemed to enlarge and create new cracks. Sanded the intended repair area thoroughly with 100-grit. Sanded the hex on the barb fitting to help insure a good epoxy seal. Measured and laid out my intended cuts and folds on the back of the aluminum mesh. Cleaned the repair area thoroughly with mineral spirits and a light wipe with Lacquer thinner. Wrapped the barb with tape to keep it clean. Folded up and attached the mesh. Mixed up a little epoxy to attach the mesh in a few key spots, holding the mesh tight and secure while the little spots cured out. Working overhead will get epoxy all over you, in your hair, on your shirt, on the floor, etc.., be prepared, in my hair was the worst. I used many (popsicle-sticks) I had in bulk to mix and coat the epoxy. Several small batches, and spreads, the epoxy cures pretty fast, donít try to mix it all at once. You can still coat partially cured (sticky) epoxy with a new batch. I used most of the two packs I purchased. I let it cure out for about four days. Tried the ac for two evenings and it seems to be a fix, yea! Now I need to put the bottom all back together.

I am somewhat concerned about the integrity of the rest of the pan. But I feel I can continue building on my current repair in a similar manor if needed later.

Happy Travels!
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