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wacnstac · 04-06-2010, 07:09 AM

Anybody know where to get a new tube that goes from where the pilot is on the stove to a burner? I have one that is rusted beyond repair.

TG Twinkie · 04-06-2010, 09:00 AM

What is the brand name of the stove? Majic chef?

Katman104 · 04-07-2010, 02:52 PM

If you need the aluminum burner I think I have a spare one but, if you need the small metal tube from the pilot assembly to the aluminum burner I cannot help. Mine are really rusted bad on my Magic Chef cook top also.
Katman104

wacnstac · 04-12-2010, 06:39 AM

It's a 1979 31' International. Don't know what stove that has in it, and yes, it's the tube that I need.

Bowmans · 04-26-2010, 09:35 PM

Wac,
I also had tubes that were rusted out in our 1979 31' Sovereign's stove (Magic Chef). We had no luck located replacements. Here is a picture of the inside and 3 of the 4 tubes:

WARNING: We have not tried ours yet with the replacements we made!

We took an aluminum arrow with the same diameter and cut them to fit the old notches as replacements. The ends that go into the burners have 2 slats at the bottom and I used tin snips to get that shape. The other side has 2 round notches that forms a bow tie shape. For those we used a drill to get the 2 holes and tin snips to cut in between. Since these tubes only carry fire to re-light the burners and most (or all?) gas grill burner housings are aluminum including the ones in this stove, I think this will work well. Of course, camoflage may not be your color... Once we use it a while, I will try to post the results.

blickcd · 05-30-2010, 07:05 AM

I have the same problem with one of my burners, front right. In the past I have used JB weld to connect the tube to the burner head and that holds up for about a year if you just move the trailer short distances over good roads.

Another repair idea I've considered but not tried yet is to get some stiff wire attached near the burner head, and strap the tube to that wire with a hose clamp.

The arrow technique is clever and I want to know how it works out. I've noticed that the pilot tubes, the half near the burner, are slit at the bottom, possibly because they are just rolled sheet metal, but maybe that will effect proper operation. If the arrows don't work properly you may need to cut such a slit.

Christopher

Bowmans · 05-30-2010, 10:43 AM

Christopher,
Your wire idea should work good as long as the tube end lines up.

On the arrows, I cut the slit in there also. I used one of the best old tubes as a template and a dremel with a cutting head to make all the slits and tips. The hard part was removing the 2 pieces of small metal from the slots in the burner heads that broke off. I went through 3 exacto blades trying to push them out.

But alas, we will not be using the stove unfortunately. The thermostat is beyond repair and it is discontinued. We bit the bullet and ordered a new oven. Should be here on Tuesday. We figured working with gas, we will be safer with a new one.

Again, if anyone needs parts off this one, send me a tell.

blickcd · 05-30-2010, 01:02 PM

After giving it some thought I realized I might be able to make a repair with something I already have. Some 3/8" copper tubing.

I'm reusing the section that is next to the pilot light. The second section, which connects to the burner, is the copper tube. I cut a notch out of one end, hammered the remaining bit into a tab and bent it down. That tab will eventually be cut into the prongs that insert into the burner head.

The tubing, being a bit smaller than the original pilot tube, is a sloppy fit inside the reused section, so I crimped it down a bit with pliers, and got everything wedged into place with a temporary wire support to give a test run.

It works great. Later this holiday weekend I plan to remove the rusted bits from the burner head and get it attached. I'll post a photo when its all done.

Tadd, what will your replacement oven be? An Atwood, like you see in all modern RV's? How do the dimensions compare with the Magic Chef? I'd like to hear from you when the swap out is complete in case I have to do the same in the future.

Christopher

TG Twinkie · 05-30-2010, 03:11 PM

To blickcd: I have a complete set of burner tubes that are not rusted. I don't have the ones for the pilot. My old stove didn't have them. The tubes I have are part of the burner and go to the individual burners. The tubes look as good or better that the ones in the bottom picture tha Bowmans posted above. You can have them for the price of postage.

Bowmans · 05-30-2010, 03:30 PM

Christopher,
We bought the Amana 3 burner, 22" oven (black) from Camperworld. The dimensions look pretty close to the original. I have a benefit in that I haven't cut the countertop yet after the renovation for the oven insert. My opening in the cabinets is the same size for the old stove and the measurements on the new stove's manual show it the same size so keeping my fingers crossed on the fit. The only thing I have to do is add a 110 outlet to the back of the stove (or extension cord from one of the existing outlets). Will post back when we get it all done.

blickcd · 05-31-2010, 09:18 AM

Got my burner pilot tube fixed. Giving it some thought, I realized there was enough overlap of the two pilot tubes that I could just cut back from the rusty end and form new tabs to insert into the burner head.

I used a small screwdriver, hammer, and some solvent to tap the rusty remians out of the burner slots. Using a cutting wheel on a dremel tool I cut back the tube, made new prongs, and bent into shape with needle nose pliers. You will want to do this a bit at a time, comparing with a burner assembly that is intact.

Here are a few photos of the work as it progressed:

RacerX · 05-31-2010, 09:43 AM

I've got a 1964 Safari with the original Magic Chef, all in working order (well I haven't had to take a running dive through the bathroom window yet!).

I am missing two small parts from my stove; one of the clips that the range pivots on at the back right-hand side and one of the flash tubes between the pilot/burner. I've kind of viewed these as small nuisance items, but would definitely be interested if anyone has some spares laying around

Bowmans · 05-31-2010, 11:59 AM

Racer,
Can you take a photo of what you are describing? If it looks like ours, I will mail them off to you. I am not sure if it will be the same item (the clip) as on our 1979 version and a photo will tell that. All of our burner tubes were rusted out and if you look above, I made some out of an arrow. I am not sure if you want those since they are not the same material but if you want them, I would be happy to mail them to you also.

RacerX · 05-31-2010, 02:00 PM

Bowmans,

Here are some photos of what I'm trying to chase down; the first photo shows the pivot pin on the left side, the second photo shows the range with the top removed (its not beautiful, but I've seen worse) and the third shows the missing pivot pin from the right hand side.

It feels like the pin is held in place by wires that spring out once pushed in...I didn't pull too hard on the existing one, because I didn't want to chance breaking it. I'm sure it would be clearer with the oven out of the Airstream.