Oven Thermostat

[Forrest]

Thanks for the telephone number John. I'll try it tomorrow and post the results.

[tod47d]

same problem here with our 4 burner, as an appliance repairman myself, I went to Fox appliance parts here in ATL but have had no luck so far. The entire assendbally behind the freekin' knob needs replaced to restore automated thermostat controll of the oven.
I'd kinda like to find a furnace cut-off button that clicks at 350 deg and cuts off the gas! Let y'all know if I can finger something out! Maybe someone can fill me in on the model # of the not so Magic chef, ours is illegible. tod47d

[bhsl8]

Mine is impossible to read as well.Has anyone tried Hart Enterprises yet?
Brouck

[tod47d]

Fox appliance here in ATL sid that a replacement is not available but to try Magic chef and see what they reccomend. It is a model 727 but you _MUST_ specify that it is made for and RV!
Bout drove my counter-girl nuts with that one,how was I to know?!? She almost hates me
will carry on the investigation but am busy with other concerns as well------ Todd McDonald in Atlanta

[bhsl8]

Thanks Todd, I await the fruits of your labor.We finally have real winter here now, sans snow, so I'm just dreamin bout airstreamin!
Brouck

[NSMITH]

Today I ordered a Thermostat for my 4-burner Magic Chef. My model # is BT22LS-4TVX, which I'll bet is a compatible model number for the bulk of 4-burner RV Magic Chefs. This model number does come up as an RV appliance on RepairClinic.com. However, my serial number was obliterated by some idiot who glued a metal safety sticker over it. This has caused some problems being absolutely certain I am ordering the right part.

This part was in stock and is shipping today, they say.

Going to see if the thermostat fixes my main problem, which is that the oven burner won't shut off. Of course I had to buy an assembly rather than just the bulb and bi-metal strip.

I ordered this part from repairclinic.com for $84 bucks plus about $6 shipping. Part #707965 on their website. I have 30 days to return the part if it doesn't fit, but I eat the shipping. I compared three sources, two had in stock, one didn't. These folks were the cheapest.

My other problem is the pilot safety valve, which won't open up at all - have temporarily bypassed this. This, too, is sold as an assembly and is an in-stock $80 part that I may or may not replace depending on whether or not my new thermostat has a separate "pilot on" setting on the knob.

Anyway, I thought I would pass along this source - it has excellent photos of the parts so you can see if what you're buying resembles your original part.

I did call Hart as one of the sources, by the way. Their price for Thermostat was $90 and would have to be ordered. Couldn't sell me a pilot safety valve without the serial # of the stove.

Will let you know if I'm back in business stove-wise after I fool with this stuff this weekend.

Neal

[NSMITH]

I went ahead and ordered the pilot valve shut off. It occurred to me that if the pilot light went out while the thing was in use (like someone slammed the oven door shut and it blew the pilot out) my trailer would be pumped full of LP and lead to a very bad day.

AND - I saw a stove for sale for $75 in the parts forum of this site. Too late for me but maybe someone else can snag it.

Neal

[PeterH-350LE]

No Luck
Called all of the above mentioned places and there is no reference available for my model number.
Model# LT73JA-5TM4
serial J19489A9
Part # on temp knob: 6043HOO16c
This is what it looks like:

[PeterH-350LE]

Neal,
this is the reply I got from the repairclinic:

Thank you for your recent inquiry to WWW.RepairClinic.Com.

Unfortunately we do not carry parts for RV units. I would suggest going to
your local RV dealer for Magic Chef.

[NSMITH]

Hi Peter:
I think you've tried Hart but not sure. My model number was identified on a site as an RV part - thought it was Repairclinic.com but maybe some other site. I received the parts last nite and the pilot safety valve looks like a ringer for my existing part, but the thermostat is different, which I knew from the photo. I'm hoping this will still work, though. The measurements are okay but the body is shaped a bit differently. Will try to install this weekend and maybe can move on from this oven thing.

Have you tried just taking your thermostat to a parts dealer and letting them try to find a compatible part?

Maybe I can learn something that can help you when I try to install this stuff this weekend.

"Where there's a will..." and all that.
Neal

[NSMITH]

Well, it worked! The new thermostat and pilot safety valve work like champs.

I bought an oven thermometer (Big Lots - $2) and the oven runs right on the money.

So the oven adventures are over for me, at least. I told my wife that she is definitely going to have to be sure to bake something at least once everytime we're out.

Now onto the new stereo installation and fixing the stripped gears on my antenna.

Neal

[bhsl8]

Neal, congratulations. Now, can you share with us where you got the parts for sure? I sensed some confusion. Did you indeed need both parts to fix your problem?
Brouck

PS what's for supper?

[NSMITH]

Sure, Brouck. I bought both parts at repairclinic.com after entering in my model number noted in previous posting. I did check three sources on this, but repairclinic.com was the cheapest and the only place that had parts immediately available - plus photos of the parts on the site. I don't know if I did indeed need both parts. In retrospect, I should have just replaced the thermostat and checked to see if that would work. Then also replaced the pilot safety valve if it didn't work.

However, my problem was a bit different than some of the other folks. My pilot safety valve would never open up - even if I heated the pilot sensor red hot with a torch. My oven burner would not light at all unless I bypassed the pilot safety valve. (The following is NOT recommended - do this at your own risk!) I bypassed this by creating a small disk of compressed aluminum foil, opening the body of the safety valve, and placing the disk in the body so that the safety valve "clicked" and stayed open all the time. Once I did this the burner would come on. This led me to believe that the pilot safety valve was shot - the bimetal strip (don't know the correct name for this) that was supposed to open the valve didn't do anything.

With the safety valve bypassed my burner would come on but wouldn't shut off regardless of the temperature in the oven, which led me to believe the thermostat was shot. At this point I was where everyone else seemed to be - "eternal burner syndrome".

Maybe replacing the thermostat would have cured the pilot safety valve problem. Don't think so but really don't know.

This was expensive - $80 for the thermostat and about the same for the pilot safety valve. If I could have scored a used range/oven somewhere close by that I know was okay I probably could have save a few bucks. But this was easy to install and I know they're new parts that should last awhile.

Most important of all is that my wife is happy and no longer thinks I'm a total idiot - at least for a few days anyway.

A couple of notes: Buying a new thermostat replaces the entire oven control knob assembly. As I mentioned in previous posting, the physical appearance of the replacement part was very different than the original part, but fit fine upon installation. This new part even has what I believe is a callibration adjustment for the thermostat that my original did not have. I did not have to adjust this as it was callibrated fine out of the box. The pilot safety valve was an exact replica of the original.

Peter's thermostat looks very different from mine. He has an additional line to/from his while mine actually mounts on a pipe common to the range burners that I believe is the gas supply line.

That's the limit of my knowledge/experience on this subject, and I apologize to the experts if I've used the wrong terms along the way or led someone down the wrong path.

Sorry for the long post but I hope this makes sense and maybe will be helpful for someone.

Neal

[bhsl8]

Neal great job. This has been very helpful to me. I think I may not need the pilot safety valve but I definitely need the thermostat. I will follow your path and see what happens.Thanks again.
Brouck