I have a RecPro 21" stove that replaced the factory Maytag stove in my 2012 International Signature -- it was not a direct fit, by the way, but that's another conversation.
I've been over-the-moon happy with it because it has a glass window in the oven door, an oven light, and, most importantly, the oven temperature matches exactly what the dial is set to!
The RecPro stove is the same as others built in the same factory with the same components: Furrion, Contour, GE Profile, Greystone, amzchef, CAMPLUX, Magic Chef, and probably others.
A friend has the Furrion branded stove and it has always been a struggle to bake in it. Comparing the two oven knobs, it's easy to see why! The photo shows the RecPro knob on the bottom and the Furrion knob on the top. The "off" location is lined up on both as is the flame/ignition emblem. Beyond that, nothing is the same.
I fired up his Furrion oven but used the knob from the RecPro and the inside oven temperature was a perfect match at 350 and 400 -- the two temperatures I tested. I also set it to the max and found that the oven thermometer was a little over 500 instead of the 490 marked on the RecPro knob.
My method of preheating and comparing the temperatures is to set the oven dial to, say, 350. I then leave it alone for about 20 minutes. That's important. Because at about 10 minutes you'll see the oven burner turn down to low/maintain mode but at that time the oven thermometer reads 400 -- 50 degrees higher than the set temperature on the dial. Not to worry! I think this is part of the design to overshoot the set temperature in the preheat cycle to compensate for heat that will be lost when the oven door is opened and food is placed inside.
In my testing, I did not imitate the opening of the door to put food inside. This is why I gave the preheat cycle a full 20 minutes because after the burner flame cuts back to low/maintain mode, the interior temperature will drop but it stabilizes at the set point on the knob.
I have attached a Word document with oven temperature readings you can print and cut out into a narrow strip. Tape it over your existing knob markings by lining up the flame emblem on the paper with the flame emblem on the knob. Then do some testing with an oven thermometer using the temperatures on the paper as a guide. If you like what you see, you might consider ordering a set of replacement knobs on Amazon for the RecPro or Greystone model. The key, I think, is to get a set of knobs with the lowest oven temperature starting at 320. Both the RecPro and Greystone knobs do this. And if you can find a set for Magic Chef, I believe they do, too -- but harder to find.
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Ho'onanea (Ho Oh Na Nay Uh) -- to pass the time with peace, ease, and pleasure.
I have a RecPro 21" stove that replaced the factory Maytag stove in my 2012 International Signature -- it was not a direct fit, by the way, but that's another conversation.
I'm about to pull the trigger and purchase the RecPro 21" stove to upgrade the Atwood stove in my 2014 27' Flying Cloud FB. I decided on the RecPro based on all the comments here about the ease of installation, oven accuracy, and price ($200 more for knobs that turn red when on!).
I'm curious about your comment (quoted above) that it wasn't a direct fit. Could you please explain?
Randy
__________________ Randy & Pat Godfrey
Florida Airstream Club (027) ACI# 1212 - AIR# 17017
2014 27FB Flying Cloud - SilverCabin II
2018 F-150 Platinum - unnamed
The best part of any trip is when you pull away from home.
I replaced an Amana (ALY2280BDS) model in my 2012 International. I've seen the same stove branded as Magic Chef, too. The height of the Amana was taller than the RecPro. It was fairly easy to resolve by using some scrap 2x4 blocks underneath it for support. In my situation, once I removed the original stove, there was a laminated shelf/platform right there where it previously sat. I just measured and cut the 2x4 blocks to the correct size to give it support so that it sat flush with the countertop. One block near each corner on the bottom was all it needed.
That left a gap at the front, bottom of the stove directly above the door for the shallow storage space under the stove. I had left over laminate from a different project that matched the interior of the Airstream so I just cut a piece of ¾" plywood and laminated it and then it sticks on with Velcro strips on each end. An unintended benefit of this is I can easily remove it if there's any need to see what's going on under the oven.
The more challenging issue was that the depth of the stove from front to back was less than the one being replaced. This left me with a gap in the countertop at the rear of the stove. I also had left over laminate that matched the countertop and I used a router bit to try and match the radius of the corners for the ¾" piece of plywood that fills the gap. Fortunately for me, the busy pattern of the countertop makes it difficult to notice. And also fortunate for me was that I did NOT have a solid surface countertop as that would have been more difficult to work with.
I'll include some pictures to help explain. Do you know the manufacturer's cut-out dimensions for the stove you're replacing?
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Ho'onanea (Ho Oh Na Nay Uh) -- to pass the time with peace, ease, and pleasure.
It doesn't look like I would have the same fit issues replacing the Atwood with the RecPro as you did with the Amana. I've attached a photo of the page from the Atwood user manual that gives the cutout dimensions. I was able to download the RecPro user's manual, and all the essential dimensions are identical. It also looks like the structure of the RecPro covers the notches at the front of the countertop that was required for the Atwood stove (N-Series)—I was worried about that. Thanks for your reply on this.
I will post another post to see how everyone made the electrical connection. My converter/charger/distribution panel is at the bottom of the next cabinet, so I know where to find 12v power. I am curious how everyone routed the wires and how they connected them. Hopefully, there will be some photos.
Thanks again,
Randy
__________________ Randy & Pat Godfrey
Florida Airstream Club (027) ACI# 1212 - AIR# 17017
2014 27FB Flying Cloud - SilverCabin II
2018 F-150 Platinum - unnamed
The best part of any trip is when you pull away from home.
Yes, I think you'll have a a more plug-n-play experience with your installation. My application also had a small notch at the front and it's a little bit visible on one side. I'll attach some pictures with a tape measure from the back of the metal side piece to the front of the stove so you can see where the measurements land. The total depth from back to front of the range is 19 3/16. The handle and knobs will make it a bit more. Just be careful that you don't set it so far back that the vents on the side of the oven door are blocked. Those notches might allow it to go back further than it should. The vents on the side of the oven door need to be exposed rather than recessed into the cabinet. I think that will be a little clearer once you have the stove set in place.
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Ho'onanea (Ho Oh Na Nay Uh) -- to pass the time with peace, ease, and pleasure.
I neglected to mention that the wiring was pretty easy. Once your existing stove is out, you'll likely see plenty of open space behind it as well as 12v wiring to tap into. Lever nuts are always handy to have and would be ideal for this situation. Airstream typically uses a solid white wire for 12v- and a colored wire for 12v+. All of the wiring is in place from the manufacturer for lights. You'll just need to connect 2 bare leads coming out the back to +/-.
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Ho'onanea (Ho Oh Na Nay Uh) -- to pass the time with peace, ease, and pleasure.
Perhaps not applicable to this thread on oven temperature knobs, but some have screws on the underside that can be loosened and the indicating portion of the knob moved in relation to the shaft, allowing the temperature to be dialed in a little closer to your preferred thermometer. I can't speak for these knobs as I removed our old stove and replaced it with some drawers and storage for my wife wh does not cook in the trailer.
Here’s the before and after of my recent upgrade to a Furion range/oven. The latter is much better in many respects than the original Atwood provided by Airstream. Attractive, oven door actually closes tightly, ignition for oven (no more lighters and holding the knob for 30 seconds while kneeling in an uncomfortable position), lit knobs are a safety feature allows you to see when gas is flowing.
The replacement did not require any modifications for my 2019 FC RBT. The wiring for the knob lights was easily done to the right of the range by connecting with wires to the water pump.
but some have screws on the underside that can be loosened and the indicating portion of the knob moved in relation to the shaft
Unfortunately, these aren't that high-end. The knobs from Furrion and Graystone are plastic and the ones from RecPro and GE are metal -- not sure about the others. But none of them have adjustment screws on the back.
Just arrived today. . . a replacement oven knob from Furrion/Lippert and it's the same bad knob with the incorrect temperature markings on it. I just don't understand why they can't seem to get such a simple problem fixed.
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Ho'onanea (Ho Oh Na Nay Uh) -- to pass the time with peace, ease, and pleasure.
Here’s the before and after of my recent upgrade to a Furion range/oven.
Have you tested the accuracy of the oven temperatures? If so, I'd be curious to hear if you've found yours to be accurate. Any chance you can send a picture of the oven knob in the off position and the first few temperature settings?
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Ho'onanea (Ho Oh Na Nay Uh) -- to pass the time with peace, ease, and pleasure.
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