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01-30-2004, 07:16 PM
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#1
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Rivet Master
1968 22' Safari
1976 27' Overlander
Newport
, Washington
Join Date: Jan 2004
Posts: 864
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Installing a microwave in 1976 Overlander?
Hello all. I haven't had the opportunity to check any of the systems in our Overlander (too cold), so I don't even know if anything works. Based on the fridge, everything could be fried or rusted, but going against my luck, and hoping for the best. I know the fridge needs replaced...but I think I have that covered.
We want to install a microwave into a spot where there is a missing door, next to the fridge (see pic). How difficult will this be, and well, because I'm being lazy, I'll ask where the best place is to buy one, OR can just a regular ol' run-of-the-mill Target microwave work???
Since it's too darn cold here, I haven't been able to learn the airstream like I intended to. So I rely on you all. And if I don't find it in a past forum, I post a new one. Please forgive my many questions...
Thanks!
Ron & TOny
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01-30-2004, 07:17 PM
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#2
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Rivet Master
1968 22' Safari
1976 27' Overlander
Newport
, Washington
Join Date: Jan 2004
Posts: 864
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The fridge for anyone who hasn't seen it! The grates have rusted away....
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01-30-2004, 07:27 PM
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#3
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Rivet Monster
1975 31' Sovereign
1980 31' Excella II
Sprung Leak
, North Carolina
Join Date: Jun 2003
Posts: 7,172
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TCL,
That is the same location ours was in when we bought the unit. Our microwave was a monster GE over range unit that someone stuck in there. They got the power by drilling a hole in the side of the cabinet where the fridge is. There is a power plug behind the fridge that can be accessed from the access door. ...at least there is on mine. We are going with a smaller microwave, a Magic Chef stainless steel unit that we bought somewhere on clearance sale. BTW is the tambour door there completely missing or just stuck in the open position? Those big ones like that take a beating!
Aaron
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01-30-2004, 07:31 PM
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#4
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Just a member
1978 28' Argosy 28
Lutz
, Florida
Join Date: Mar 2002
Posts: 4,549
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I would say yes, but with a few limitations. This is what I did when i installed a Microwave/convection in our MH.
Be sure the outside dimensions of the microwave allow for air movement per the manufacturers specs. This normally means 2 inches on all sides. If the shelf is of the thin plywood (18 inch) I would beef it up with some 1/2 inch of the microwave may end up in the pantry
Find a unit that has the exterior cover held on with side mounted screws. Once you have cut and installed your 1/2 inch minimum piece of plywood I recommend using an L shaped bracket to hold the microwave to the plywood using the screws that were conveniently provided my the microwave manufacturer. This prevents you from being greeted by the microwave at the door after an emergency maneuver or a rough section of road.
If possible simple is better. unless you like having to reset the clock every time you plug in, get a manual model. They are also a bit less temperamental to power issues (lack of proper voltage, etc.).
Lastly, do not run the microwave and the AC at the same time. The draw of the microwave and the AC compressor will pop a breaker for sure In newer trailers they had a switch that made you choose what one you could run.
__________________
Brett G
WBCCI #5501 AIR # 49
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1978 Argosy 28 foot Motorhome
Wise men talk because they have something to say; fools, because they have to say something. -- Plato
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01-30-2004, 07:38 PM
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#5
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Rivet Master
1977 31' Sovereign
Tampa Bay
, ^
Join Date: Jun 2002
Posts: 762
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Modified area for microwave on my 72 Overlander. With a few tools, you can make a cheapo Wallyworld Microwave fit nicely!
__________________
Out in the woods, or in the city, It's all the same to me.
When I'm drivin' free, the world's my home....When I'm mobile.
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01-30-2004, 09:16 PM
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#6
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Rivet Master
1968 22' Safari
1976 27' Overlander
Newport
, Washington
Join Date: Jan 2004
Posts: 864
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Aaron,
Actually, I didn't know that that was a tambour there, I just assumed that it was a regular door. (regular door probably has some special name too, doesn't it.)
This is all great info, so glad that I can get a cheapo unit, after deciding on the $1500 fridge, and I think we may spring for the s/s door panels too.
Not like we're keepin this one anyway. Our Safari is getting much less love right now.
But the Overlander is stricly for resale....
Thanks again
Ron
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01-31-2004, 03:38 AM
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#7
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Rivet Monster
1975 31' Sovereign
1980 31' Excella II
Sprung Leak
, North Carolina
Join Date: Jun 2003
Posts: 7,172
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Quote:
Originally posted by tin can luv
Aaron,
Actually, I didn't know that that was a tambour there, I just assumed that it was a regular door. (regular door probably has some special name too, doesn't it.)
Thanks again
Ron
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Ron,
My unit has the tambour there...but in most of the photos I have seen of that configuration the pantry doors go all the way to the top. Look in the rear sides of the cabinet for evidence of the tambour. Should be rivet holes or possibly the coil up tracks where the tambour used to fit. BTW I have seen very few units where that tambour was in good condition. Mine is broken in the middle and will require major surgery to correct...it is on the list
Aaron
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01-31-2004, 03:41 AM
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#8
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Rivet Monster
1975 31' Sovereign
1980 31' Excella II
Sprung Leak
, North Carolina
Join Date: Jun 2003
Posts: 7,172
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Ron,
I like the bedroom configuration on yours, with the big wardrobe, that or a rear bedroom would have been my preference...we have the rearbath, mid twins. If I can find a donor unit I might try the conversion....So many Airstreams so little time...
Aaron
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01-31-2004, 08:09 PM
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#9
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Rivet Master
1968 22' Safari
1976 27' Overlander
Newport
, Washington
Join Date: Jan 2004
Posts: 864
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Now i'm anxious to go check out that missing door. It may still be there. It's such a mess, I didn't take that good of a look.
THanks guys!
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