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Old 04-11-2020, 09:23 PM   #1
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1963 28' Ambassador
Franklin , TN
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1963 Tappan Replacing Aluminum Gas Lines Help

Hi - Im doing a restore on my 1963 ambassador which we love and want to keep the old stove. Ive cleaned it up and repainted small holders and screws after removing rust. Realized it was rubbing the hole in gas lines where it goes in the oven so I looked further and all three lines need to be replaced. The model is Tappan T66 22a. I was able to find and replace the oven thermostat robert shaw controls with a "new old" part.

I cant seem to find this AL line - it seems that its used all the time on water heaters and other appliances but cant find a supplier.

Does anyone know where to find the AL pipe and compression fittings? 1/8" pipe, 3/8", 3/16"

Oven is in good shape otherwise. ALthough it has the burner pan rust issue would really like to find those but I dont think ill ever be able to find those may need to refinish.
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Old 04-11-2020, 09:52 PM   #2
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The Tappan range is a tough one, unique to 1963 Airstream. You can replace the aluminum line with copper. Part way through production in 1963 they switched from aluminum to copper. All the connections should be done with a farrule, not a flare anyway, and those are easy to come by as well. Hope that helps! Weird that these are so rare to see, and I was working on one today, reinstalled the oven burner control valve, aligned the thermocouple and got it fired up. Let me know if I can be of any other help. while you have the sides off the run the gas lines it never hurts to install new oven insulation. You'll love that your oven doesn't smell like 40 year old cooking grease and mouse urine.
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Old 04-11-2020, 10:00 PM   #3
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1963 Tappan Replacing Aluminum Gas Lines Help

They also used the cheapest plating possible. I've bought up about 6 stoves to make a good one for our around the world trailer, all of them had bad tops. Getting them re-plated in nickel is expensive but will look great.Click image for larger version

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Old 04-11-2020, 10:03 PM   #4
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1963 28' Ambassador
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Thank you that is a help. Ive looked everywhere it seams on the web for the AL pipe and can not find it. I figured they used it for a reason its good to hear I can use Copper. Im going to look for some kind of hi temp silicone to wrap where it goes into the oven.

Interestingly enough the insulation is clean no mice. I do have a spot where its missing though So i was trying to figure out where to get the oven insulation. Where do you recommend finding the insulation?

"All the connections should be done with a farrule". Ill look that connector up - good to know what its called. - I see its different and not a flare and assume its a compression style as it seems to be a perm "end" once tightened.

Is a little crazy you were working on one of these. I looked for a while to find the thermo for this and when I replaced it fired right up. My wife loves the oven on this one for pastries.

Someone had spray painted my door. I saw what looked like porcelain under it and used a citrus stripper to remove the spray paint - its beautiful color and shiny.

Thanks for the note! Ill send in a pict once done on the polish and clean up.

Your Cook top looks great no rust! Did you polish that or are you lucky to have a rust free cook top?

Thanks Scott and Megan,
Mike M.
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Old 04-11-2020, 10:34 PM   #5
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I'm convinced there is no such thing as a good rust free tappan top. That top is just back from being filled and filled then nickle plated. I was rebuilding this stove for a buddy. I think he has about $1500 into the plating on the oven door handle, the side moldings, the top, 4 drip pans, and the back hinged plate the top slides into. Ours still is rusty, but We're a few projects away from having the income to ship that off but desperately want to! You'll be able to reuse the brass "nut" for each end of the lines, but the ferrule is a small brass sleeve that slides of the pipe and compresses when the nut is tightened. Very common for household shutoff valves etc. Our local Ace Hardware had a ferrule for the 1/8" line in their brass fittings section when I needed one to fix the line to one of the cook top pilot lights.

Any of antique appliance restoration shops will sell you the insulation blanket material.

Hope that helps!
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Old 04-12-2020, 07:45 AM   #6
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If your Tappan is like mine, it’s almost impossible to turn off the oven pilot. If the main valve is on, so is the ovens little pre-pilot. Granted is a tiny flame but in a closed up camper it starts to be noticeable. “honey, did you turn off the stove?”Click image for larger version

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I added a second shutoff valve to disable that issue.
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Old 04-12-2020, 03:40 PM   #7
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Ive got the magic chef stove for a 72 safari that has a bad oven valve. anyone know where I may get one. The top part works great and has good pressure from the tank but bottom oven has nothing going on.. any ideas would be great. Thanks, andy
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Old 04-12-2020, 08:19 PM   #8
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i Found 1/8” ferrule s at Napa , looking forward to seeing the finish product
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Old 04-13-2020, 08:42 PM   #9
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Thumbs up

This has been such a great help. Thank you. Ive found the parts in copper and will be off to the races. I'll take some pictures and post them here.

There is no way i'm going to be able to make my top shine like that. Im going to try to carefully buff it back into a bit of a shine.

Im also into a complete cabinet rebuild as well on the kitchen and the Bath as the original cabs were modified / damaged too much. Trying to recreate and save as much as possible and will re laminate all. Bigger job then expected but hope to have it done in April to get back on the road!

Ive read we should repack the main gas valve. I dont have any leaks - do you think I should mess with that?

The pilot shut off is a good idea.

Im looking for working locking cabinet drawer cams also - may have to make those parts.
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Old 04-14-2020, 08:56 AM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mike Mohr View Post
This has been such a great help. Thank you. Ive found the parts in copper and will be off to the races. I'll take some pictures and post them here.



There is no way i'm going to be able to make my top shine like that. Im going to try to carefully buff it back into a bit of a shine.



Im also into a complete cabinet rebuild as well on the kitchen and the Bath as the original cabs were modified / damaged too much. Trying to recreate and save as much as possible and will re laminate all. Bigger job then expected but hope to have it done in April to get back on the road!



Ive read we should repack the main gas valve. I dont have any leaks - do you think I should mess with that?



The pilot shut off is a good idea.



Im looking for working locking cabinet drawer cams also - may have to make those parts.

I used this to rebuild valves.

I gave up on the small drawer cams. They were too weak and kept busting. Magnetic drawer catches attach to the rear, can’t be seen and work really good.
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