Vent space above refrigerator 1961 Tradewind 24.

[martymcclain]

I am wondering if there is anything missing from the venting area above refrigerator. I have had my 1961 Tradewind 24 for two months and I don’t know if it works . Just want to be safe when I attempt to use it.

[martymcclain]

Originally Posted by martymcclain

i am wondering if there is anything missing from the venting area above refrigerator. I have had my 1961 tradewind 24 for two months and i don’t know if it works . Just want to be safe when i attempt to use it.

[martymcclain]

this is the space above refrigerator....

[57Vintage]

I assume there is no shelf material behind the aluminum upright. There is a gap so exhaust from the frig propane heater can escape up to a chimney cap on the roof. This looks the same as my 58 Overlander. Outside that screen is a chimney cap. On mine there is a outside louvered panel about mid way up the wall that is in line vertically with the upper screen and a screened opening in the floor/belly pan. Below the louvered panel is an outside access door that lined up with the propane burner on the frig.

[martymcclain]

Originally Posted by 57Vintage

I assume there is no shelf material behind the aluminum upright. There is a gap so exhaust from the frig propane heater can escape up to a chimney cap on the roof. This looks the same as my 58 Overlander. Outside that screen is a chimney cap. On mine there is a outside louvered panel about mid way up the wall that is in line vertically with the upper screen and a screened opening in the floor/belly pan. Below the louvered panel is an outside access door that lined up with the propane burner on the frig.

Thank you for your reply, yes, I have the chimney cap and you can see the screen opening in picture. I do not have louvered panel, but have an access door. I guess you would keep that open when operating the refrigerator.....

[AlinCal]

Maybe thats the norm for the era, I don't know...But with my vintage (91) the back of the frig is ducted up to the roof chimney, such that no combustion gas can enter the living compartment.

[martymcclain]

Originally Posted by AlinCal

Maybe thats the norm for the era, I don't know...But with my vintage (91) the back of the frig is ducted up to the roof chimney, such that no combustion gas can enter the living compartment.

Yes, I was thinking the same as you concerning the combustion creating Carbon Monoxide. Hopefully someone can give me the 1961 era setup....

[sac1gaa]

You might consider adding the plastic ducking that you find on later models. There is a reason they added them (better ventilation) Do you have the floor vents sub/pan? They didn't have CO2 sensors back then either, no brainer there.
Good luck,
GA

[martymcclain]

Originally Posted by sac1gaa

You might consider adding the plastic ducking that you find on later models. There is a reason they added them (better ventilation) Do you have the floor vents sub/pan? They didn't have CO2 sensors back then either, no brainer there.

Good luck,

GA

Thanks, that’s a great idea to upgrade an existing system. I will look into the plastic ducting. I will also install necessary sensors, better safe than dead.....

[goransons]

That is correct for 1961, however if you're doing work in there I'd recommend creating an airtight flew up the back to help keep the exhaust gasses from backing up into the living space.

[martymcclain]

Originally Posted by goransons

That is correct for 1961, however if you're doing work in there I'd recommend creating an airtight flew up the back to help keep the exhaust gasses from backing up into the living space.

Thank you for the verification. I new someone would be able to tell me if anything was missing. Where would I find info in constructing an airtight Flue up the back?

[AlinCal]

If me, I would get a sheet of aluminum and cut to width of cabinet + 1-1/2" to make a flange for each side of 3/4" (or so) and follow the curve of the inner shell with about 2-1/2" to 3" of space in between shell taking it up just past your roof chimney and bend to make a closure of that space. you can screw or use pop rivets to fasten flange to cabinet bulkheads, caulk as needed.

[martymcclain]

Originally Posted by AlinCal

If me, I would get a sheet of aluminum and cut to width of cabinet + 1-1/2" to make a flange for each side of 3/4" (or so) and follow the curve of the inner shell with about 2-1/2" to 3" of space in between shell taking it up just past your roof chimney and bend to make a closure of that space. you can screw or use pop rivets to fasten flange to cabinet bulkheads, caulk as needed.

Outstanding Idea and thank you for your help in solving my fear of combustion gases in my trailer. I will take pictures and post them to see your idea being created....marty