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rodsterinfl · 10-03-2013, 06:45 PM

Greetings

I am in the process of replacing my refrigerator. I had a Dometic 2662 that was caught up in that recall, had a cracked something or other. When I bought the AS it had an ammonia smell in the cabinet above the fridge. It still cooled but there was a gurgling sound. The rear access view was one of gold drips on the piping. So, with the Dometic sale with portable ice maker , I decided to jump and buy a 3762 model. This is where the story begins.

The decision was made to save the $230 and install it myself. I got the old unit out with a great deal of thrashing about like a crazy man after removing the gas line, electrical wires, AC plug and six screws. The caulk in the front was stubborn. The next step involved cleaning the area up for installation. Further inspection found that the small wood box frame installed above the refrigerator had seen some water as the wood was delaminated and somewhat wavy. I took that out and inspected the rest of the vent and the top of the box (arched). At some point, the water stains on this box indicate that water was coming in from the vent.

Is it possible for rain water to blow into the fridge vent? I believe that is what happened. I see no stains on side walls- just on the arched piece toward the rear.

I decided to just put it back. Thoughts? I will head to the roof to seal around the roof vent as a precaution. We camped during that tropical storm a year or so ago and it rained and blew like crazy.

The process of installation is not too bad so far. I will caulk and finish hopefully tomorrow. If I can do this, then just about anyone can.

Aage · 10-03-2013, 07:00 PM

Would you describe what it is you are caulking? I haven't come across anything like that in oter descriptions of replacing refers.

rodsterinfl · 10-03-2013, 07:09 PM

Quote:

Would you describe what it is you are caulking?

Sure. I purchased some latex non silicone caulk to seal the bottom of the fridge as it was done originally. They ran a half inch or so of caulk about a 1/4" thick along the bottom of the cabinet where the fridge sits. My wood box above the fridge had caulk along both sides as well. I will caulk there too. The fridge cabinet seems to be made of some kind of thin wood between the walls and inner shell. All the sides are caulked together along the edges. I will just reattach the top box and caulk it in place and then seal the bottom side of the fridge. My biggest concern was that wooden box above the fridge.

HowieE · 10-03-2013, 07:52 PM

it is unlikely that water Blew in through the vent unless you are talking hurricane winds.

Something you might check is the vent over the shower. The cap was cracked on mine and the drain hole in the parapet below the cap blocked causing water to backed up and over flowed into the ceiling. Water to travel past the frig alomg a rib to the bulkhead just forward of it.

The only way I discovered it was I drilled a hole in the wall for some wiring and the drill bit came out wet.

rodsterinfl · 10-03-2013, 08:26 PM

When I get on the roof I will look over that area. I recently re-sealed the tank vent. I will check the fridge vent and the bathroom fan vent too. From the water stain. It appears to be coming from a center area on the wood panel, not the side or edge. There was also a large chunk of insulation at the top of the vent sticking out from between the shells right at the screen. Some of it was dark in color.

I do not know if the camping week we had last summer was a cause but It certainly was very windy. The storm had 40-50 mph winds regularly. We even drove through torrential rains with high wind. I am not sure how long it takes that thin wood to deform somewhat but it is obvious there was at least a little water at some point. Everything else in there looks clean and dry.

rodsterinfl · 10-06-2013, 06:50 AM

Update: I put a spar varnish coat on that box above the fridge. It should strengthen it some and add some water resistance. The installation of the new fridge is done, however; there are differences between the 2662 unit no longer available (my old fridge) and the new 3762 replacement model. First, the handles on the new unit are recessed on the side. This creates a promblem in my cabinetry as Airstream has trim that sticks out about 1.5" or so around the fridge. Secondly, the DC wiring on the old fridge had two wires, + and -. This one has an additional DC+ cutoff circuit so that when you cut power (alternator off when towing) the gas is switched off for 15 minutes while fueling. I do not have a wire for that. I only see the yellow wire in the back and I believe that is for the solar prewire correct?

The unit does fit and I will post some pics but as to what tools to use to shave off that trim curved edging in the AS - not sure. I do not know if it is wood or not either. Any ideas would be appreciated. It is in yes, but a few details remain.

rodsterinfl · 10-06-2013, 06:26 PM

I hope one of you "trim cutter people" can help I am needing some advice to finish this install. The side mounted door handles won't work with that trim in the way. What is the easiest neat way to cut trim? Is it wood? It looks like an arched (one side with flat other side) wood trim. Here is a pic, also one of the caulk work done as per the one from the factory. The original had my trailer serial on tape stuck to the side. I do not have the front trim pieces installed yet

rodsterinfl · 10-11-2013, 08:03 PM

Ok, I ended up using one of those new multi-max tools with a flush cut blade and a sander attachment to take the trim down on the left for the handles.

Jim Lee · 10-11-2013, 08:15 PM

router

rodsterinfl · 10-11-2013, 08:23 PM

Quote:

router

No, not that wood crafty. I was not sure what to do as it required a 90 degree cut. Perhaps if I knew more about a router it would have worked too. "Router" is a network device to me! I have a LOT to learn.

reinergirl · 10-11-2013, 08:47 PM

Those multimax tools are hard to control if you want a precision cut. If its solid wood I'd be tempted to drill two holes to round the corners of the relief and connect the dots with a fine blade on a jigsaw. Sand well and restain.

A router would be excellent, perhaps a friend? Or drop by a wood working shop?

rodsterinfl · 10-24-2013, 06:32 PM

Thanks Kim Lee and reinergirl. I used the flat part of the space between the fridge and the trim to lean the blade against and cut through the trim with that multi-tool thing. It actually came out pretty well. They sure are an odd tool- just stick it into something and it cuts right thru. I kept wanting to saw with it. I know I probably sound like I am in desperate need of woodshop 101.

N. Spector · 01-12-2014, 03:04 PM

Am wanting to remove a Dometic Refrigerator from a 1975 Airstream Excella. I cannot seem to find bolts or screws in accessible place or
under potentially removable panels or trim. Please if possible give me an
idea of how this unit is fastened to the trailer . Where are screws located? Possibly, some directions for removal and order of operation. Thanks Norm Spector

adonh · 01-12-2014, 03:29 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by N. Spector

Am wanting to remove a Dometic Refrigerator from a 1975 Airstream Excella. I cannot seem to find bolts or screws in accessible place or
under potentially removable panels or trim. Please if possible give me an
idea of how this unit is fastened to the trailer . Where are screws located? Possibly, some directions for removal and order of operation. Thanks Norm Spector

Maybe this will help, I removed the fridge from my 1976 31' Sovereign so yours should be about the same. Here are some pictures in a pdg file that covers the removal.

remove frig.pdf

Lots of screws and straps holding it in place.

N. Spector · 01-12-2014, 06:23 PM

Don: Thanks for the quick reply and pix. Unfortunately it reads file error and no way to rescue it. If you have the time to resend I would appreciate it. If not a couple of short questions. Do I need to remor the partition wall between the fridge and the front room? Are the screw and straps mostlly available from the outside panel opening? Are there any screws available from the front by removing doors or trim? As you say there are an acre of little screws all over the side panels but so tiny, I couldnt image them to be strong enough to hold the fridge down. Thanks again

adonh · 01-13-2014, 07:51 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by N. Spector

Don: Thanks for the quick reply and pix. Unfortunately it reads file error and no way to rescue it. If you have the time to resend I would appreciate it. If not a couple of short questions. Do I need to remor the partition wall between the fridge and the front room? Are the screw and straps mostlly available from the outside panel opening? Are there any screws available from the front by removing doors or trim? As you say there are an acre of little screws all over the side panels but so tiny, I couldnt image them to be strong enough to hold the fridge down. Thanks again

Try this file, remove frig.pdf

Yes you need to remove the partition as well as the top shelve that is above the fridge, not the cabinets attached to the roof. There are straps at the bottom and on top and sides that attache to the fridge and floors/walls. The screws are usually sheet metal screws in various lengths similar to the ones you see throughout the trailer. If I remember correctly there are none bolting it to the floor other than the straps. But Airstream pretty much had a random manner of attaching equipment that was not always the same from trailer to trailer.

Aage · 01-13-2014, 07:52 AM

N Spector: you need to load Adobe Reader. It works fine for me.

Hoonanea · 01-13-2014, 09:29 AM

Aage, what kind of device are you using?

I'm on iOS using the Airforums app with the Adobe Reader app installed and I also get an error. Have not tried it from Safari.

Protagonist · 01-13-2014, 09:52 AM

The PDF file works in the IE and Chrome browsers, but doesn't work on the AirForums app for Android. Shows up as a broken link instead. I have Adobe Reader installed on my Android tablet.