Replacing old 2-way with 3-way

[DeepRock]

Replacing the original fridge on a 1971 Overlander International. Not too familiar with these refrigerators but from removing the old one, I only noticed hookups from the fridge to the airstream for AC power and propane. The fridge I've found to replace this one has both AC and propane hookups, but also DC hookups for the auto switching box on the back of the fridge. Since I don't have those wires available, can I simply not hook up that box for the auto switching function and just manually switch between propane and electric or will it not work with that DC box unpowered? Any help greatly appreciated. Thanks.

[LY007]

Doesn't the propane igniter require 12 volts?

[rmkrum]

Most modern fridges require 12 volt DC power to run their control board, ignite propane, and control the 110 volt relay that lets it work on 120 volt.

Look at the fridge specs to be sure of this...but I'm betting you need 12 volts DC to even make it work...

[Al and Missy]

Some I have looked at the diagrams on have two separate DC inputs. One is for the control circuits, the other, with larger wire and fusing, for the compressor.


Al

[Wazbro]

From your description it sounds like you actually got a 2-way fridge AC/propane. With 12V DC control board which needs power to control the AC/propane.

[sac1gaa]

Me thinks it is called a Pilot light back then. My '75 Globetrotter didn't have any electrical when I pulled it out. You might want to check wire size. Running on 12v vs. electronic ignition would use different size wire, I would believe.
Gary A

[DeepRock]

Originally Posted by Wazbro

From your description it sounds like you actually got a 2-way fridge AC/propane. With 12V DC control board which needs power to control the AC/propane.

I think you might be right that its actually a 2-way with a DC powered control to switch between AC and propane.

Thanks for all the helpful replies.

[DeepRock]

I'll put an update on here once I pick up the fridge and see whether its going to work and what modifications if any it requires.

[uncle_bob]

Hi

Ok, what are the possibilities?

1) It's a pure 12V fridge with a 12V compressor, that seems to be ruled out already.

2) It is a normal fridge like most stock units. It has a 12V control board and switches between 120V and propane to do the heavy lifting.

3) It's a three way fridge that has a 12V control board and can use propane, 120V, or 12V for the heavy lifting.

In all cases, you will need some source of 12V to get the beast running. I'm not a big fan of #3 above. If that's what you have, I'd trade it in for #2.

Bob