Replacement refrigerator not working

[adonh]

If your lights are working in the trailer then the converter is supplying 12v and as long as you are on shore power you can get buy without the battery. The converter does two things converts 110v to 12v for the 12v lights, fans, etc and it charges the battery. The battery sole purpose in your 1979 trailer is to provide 12v power for the lights, fans, etc while you are not hooked up to shore power for as long as it holds a charger. The battery recharges when you are hooked up again to shore power. So if you have lights now while hooked up to shore power with the battery removed your converter is working and you can put off getting a new converter for now. If the microwave is working you have 110v as well. Does the Air Conditioner work. What brand name is it. The old univolt will run warm.

Pictures of your trailer inside and outside views would help.

Remember this trailer is 34 years old.

[kimberlyjan]

Yes, I have lights even without a battery. We are hooked to shore power. So, I still have to have the battery to operate the fridge?

[kimberlyjan]

Ok, I'm re-reading your post, adonh. I see where you put the purpose of the battery. Since the converter didn't charge the battery, maybe it's a bad new battery?

[adonh]

Originally Posted by kimberlyjan

Yes, I have lights even without a battery. We are hooked to shore power. So, I still have to have the battery to operate the fridge?

No as I said the only purpose of the battery is to operate the lights etc while not hooked up to shore power, boon docking. If you can get a 12v power supply to the fridge it will provide the 12v power it needs.

[adonh]

Originally Posted by kimberlyjan

Ok, I'm re-reading your post, adonh. I see where you put the purpose of the battery. Since the converter didn't charge the battery, maybe it's a bad new battery?

The charger portion of the old univolt is probably bad. So for now while on shore power the converter portion is working. So the battery is not an issue for now. Hopefully someone will jump in and direct you on how to find a close 12v source to run a supply line to the new/used fridge. Lets handle one project at a time. Successfully completing a project energizes you to move on the next one. Remember this 1979 Argosy is 34 years old. Look at some of the threads where others have started in your position and then look at their before and after refurbishing efforts.

[kimberlyjan]

Thank you, adonh! Yes, we need to get the 12 volt to the fridge first. I really don't foresee us being anywhere without shore power in the near future, so I can relax about that issue for now.

[adonh]

let us know how this comes out.

[kimberlyjan]

We think we know what we have to do now, but one question....is it possible to hook to the outlet behind the fridge or do we have to hook it something else that's 12 volt?

[Aage]

kimberly,

The outlet behind the fridge is 120V, so that's what the regular 120V plug goes into.

You also need a 12V supply, for the electronics of the board. As Don pointed out, there isn't one of those in the refer's back cabinet; you need to find a source for that.

But I think it might be time to involve an expert, to get you by this part safely. Electrical work can be tricky, if you aren't experienced.

It's important that you are safe. Saving money is important, but being safe is more important, wouldn't you agree?

[overlander64]

Greetings kimberlyjan!

Originally Posted by kimberlyjan

Ok, I'm re-reading your post, adonh. I see where you put the purpose of the battery. Since the converter didn't charge the battery, maybe it's a bad new battery?

The battery could be bad, or the in-line fuses in one or both battery cables may need to be replaced. If my memory is correct, our Argosys have a 50-amp in-line fuse in each of the battery cables.

Your modern Dometic refrigerator has a microprocessor control board that requires 12-volt DC power to operate. Without its 12-volt connection, the refrigerator will not function. The refrigerator doesn't have a distinct preference whether it receives its 12-volt DC from a battery or power converter . . . but the Univolt has a reputation for producing voltage that isn't always consistent and that can cause problems for electronic controls like the Dometic electronic control module.

Good luck with your Argosy . . . these teething problems are typically short-lived!

Kevin

[247stream]

All the new stuff all at once can be overwhelming and sometimes its a good idea to just step back and take a deep breath and even maybe walk away for awhile before trying again.

[kimberlyjan]

Ok, so there are cigarette lighter outlets all over the trailer. We ran the wire to one of those just beside the fridge. It says "12 volt". That didn't work. Blew a fuse!

[overlander64]

Greetings kimberlyjan!

Originally Posted by kimberlyjan

Ok, so there are cigarette lighter outlets all over the trailer. We ran the wire to one of those just beside the fridge. It says "12 volt". That didn't work. Blew a fuse!

I can think of two possibilities that may explain what happened. If the fuse that blew is on the Univolt power converter the addition of the small drain of the refrigerators circuit board . . . or there may be internal problems with the cigarette lighter outlet as those have a reputation of failing at the most inopportune times. If the fuse that blew is on the refrigerator's circuit board, it may be that the Univolt is producing too much voltage (some of the old Univolts produced up to 18 volts.

I know that when I had the Dometic 3-Way RV refrigerator installed in my Overlander, they insisted upon running a heavy gauge dedicated wire from the refrigerator to the 12-volt DC circuit board (my Univolt had been replaced several years earlier). Thus far (nearly 10 years) I haven't had any problems with my Dometic other than one failed circuit board about two years ago.

Good luck in locating your problem!

Kevin

P.S. You might want to try connecting a fully charged 12-volt battery directly to the refrigerator with appropriate in-line fuse to see if the refrigerator becomes cooperative under that environment.

[kimberlyjan]

It was a fuse on the main fuse box of the camper. We did think about connecting it to a battery to see what happens.

[kimberlyjan]

Update: Hubby got refer working with help of a friend. Battery was bad so store replaced it and univolt is still charging properly. YAY!!

[cwf]

Originally Posted by kimberlyjan

Update: Hubby got refer working with help of a friend. Battery was bad so store replaced it and univolt is still charging properly. YAY!!

YAY!!!!!! All is not lost.