Refrigerator won’t stay lit when traveling

[dmiracle]

It used to stay lit when traveling unless it was very windy. Now when we stop the frig is off with a “check “ light on. Any ideas on what is going on?
Thanks

[pteck]

Have you ever changed the propane regulator on your '07 Safari?

I've found my regulator to be marginal. I wouldn't loose function on the fridge, but it would struggle in higher temps and elevation. After changing, all my propane powered appliances worked much much better. Cursury search on the internet is that the regulator wears and is a common progressive issue with older trailers. Perhaps your issue is related?

[DKB_SATX]

I'll second the recommendation about checking your regulator. I had an old-school fridge in my first trailer (had to light it manually, no 12v system at all on that fridge.) Initially I had a terrible time keeping it lit on the road, after trying a couple of things to baffle wind gusts and such I checked the gas pressure with a manometer and found that it was well below the recommended spec. A new regulator alleviated 99% of the problem (I still always had to re-light it after going over a mountain pass above about 9k feet.)

[GCinSC2]

If all other gas appliances work normally might be time to clean the gas burner assy.

Does it run on gas when stationary?

I have a 2007 and mine was subject to a recall which included extra shielding around the burner. To check if applicable you’ll need the fridge model and serial number and check Dometic recall website.

Are you a “handy man / woman” type or tools are not in your comfort zone?

[Njg]

There is a screw to adjust the flow of propane on the . Mine was a 1/8 turn too tight and the same problem on a brand new trailer.

[GCinSC2]

Originally Posted by Njg

There is a screw to adjust the flow of propane on the . Mine was a 1/8 turn too tight and the same problem on a brand new trailer.

Just curious, can you post a pic showing what you adjusted please.

[zapper]

Originally Posted by dmiracle

It used to stay lit when traveling unless it was very windy. Now when we stop the frig is off with a “check “ light on. Any ideas on what is going on?
Thanks

Check the gas pressure at the refrigerator. Should be 10" of WC (water column) pressure. You used to be able to buy a WC pressure gauge at an auto-parts store for about $10. Caution: Be sure to turn off both your propane tanks and shut off your refrigerator before disconnecting the propane pipe to the refer. Then attach gauge to the pipe and open a propane tank valve. If you are not seeing 10" of WCP then adjust the refer flame (while refer is still off) screw to show 10"WCP. Then shut off propane reconnect piping and start refer.

[pteck]

While I do recommend measuring the pressure with a WC, if you want to see if it's the regulator via the lazy way, you can just give the regulator adjustment one full turn clockwise to see if it makes any difference.

The regulator is hung off the propane tanks. There's a cap covering the adjustment screw.

You may note that after adjusting, that your cooktop and all gas appliances may work better immediately with a stronger flame. You'll still want to change out the regulator as it is definitely worn anything over 10 years, and won't provide the propane pressure adequately when more than one device is on.

Regulator adjustment looks something like this (but this is a different tank configuration)

[carl2591]

when measured at static state,, nothing running, 10 WC is too low.. should be more around 12.. when running 1/2 of the load like 2 burners on stove burning and measuring then you adjust to 11 WC according to dometic repair manual

Originally Posted by zapper

Check the gas pressure at the refrigerator. Should be 10" of WC (water column) pressure. You used to be able to buy a WC pressure gauge at an auto-parts store for about $10. Caution: Be sure to turn off both your propane tanks and shut off your refrigerator before disconnecting the propane pipe to the refer. Then attach gauge to the pipe and open a propane tank valve. If you are not seeing 10" of WCP then adjust the refer flame (while refer is still off) screw to show 10"WCP. Then shut off propane reconnect piping and start refer.

[Kamiak]

I had that problem nearly 20 years ago. Every time a truck might pass, especially in the opposite direction on a two lane road, it would snuff out the fridge. I cut a furnace filter to fit the outside fridge door, placed it in the opening, and closed the door. Never had a problem since. I usually remove the filter at my destination, especially if it's hot weather, but this particular washable filter allows great normal air flow. Not a big deal if you forget.
I've been using the same filter all this time.

I hope this helps.

Vega AC Air Furnace Filters - Cut to Fit - Washable (20x30x1, 2 Pack) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B077R96NVF/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_fabc_P56S1A56W9PPKQZCDVX3

[ROBERT CROSS]

After checking/fixing everything that was said above...go with the course furnace filters, I used the green ones on our first AS. Removal was part of the set-up routine. Worked well with our '63 safari.

Bob
🇺🇸

I still use it to keep the critters out during storage. This is on the furnace exhaust, also use the the water heater & fridge.

[Gene]

There should be a baffle mounted on the back of the fridge to prevent that. My increasingly weak memory says the baffle was added around the time your trailer was manufactured.

[ITSNO60]

If it used to stay lit and now it doesn't the most likely suspect, like GCinSC2 suggested, is the burner needs cleaning. Also remove and clean the orifice and make sure the tiny white filter is clean and dry (it looks like a miniature cigarette filter and it is stuffed into the supply tube at the orifice, watch for it to fall out so you don't lose it). Don't use anything on the orifice but solvent, you do not want to enlarge the hole by poking anything in it. Crud does accumulate over time in the small openings of the orifice and burner (soot). Do this before you start messing with adjustments, it's not that hard.