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billberk · 08-12-2007, 03:45 PM

I have the Dometic 2451 in my 2007 Safari. I had to replace my power converter, so the refrigerator had no power for a few days.

Power is back on now. Refrigerator is on auto setting. Freezer seems to be getting cold but fridge is not. Manual says it could take four hours and it's been at least that. Fan is not running but the switch is on.

The user manual is no help. Do these things just take forever to get cold from a dead start or do I have a problem?

Any suggestions?

Janets Husband · 08-12-2007, 04:04 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by billberk

I have the Dometic 2451 in my 2007 Safari. I had to replace my power converter, so the refrigerator had no power for a few days.

Power is back on now. Refrigerator is on auto setting. Freezer seems to be getting cold but fridge is not. Manual says it could take four hours and it's been at least that. Fan is not running but the switch is on.

The user manual is no help. Do these things just take forever to get cold from a dead start or do I have a problem?

Any suggestions?

When all else fails "Reboot". Try removing all power from the frig. Cut the AC and DC power let it stand powerless for an hour and then power it up and try again. Let it cool overnight and check it in the morning, that should be enough to get the cooling up to speed. If that doesn't work, it's warranty time.

Safari-Rick · 08-12-2007, 05:39 PM

Your refer if it has fins/blades on the upper shelf, you should see a sleeve on the right most blade. You should be able to move it up or down. This ishould be the adjuster for the temp of the refrigerator.

Rick

tlavergne · 08-12-2007, 06:12 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Safari-Rick

Your refer if it has fins/blades on the upper shelf, you should see a sleeve on the right most blade. You should be able to move it up or down. This ishould be the adjuster for the temp of the refrigerator.

Rick

Which way do you move it to make it cooler...up or down? What does that do? I never knew I had that until I read this post. There is a wire attached to the sleeve...is that a thermostat of some sort? Nothing about it in my owners manual.
Thanks.
Tom
#8848

grantb4 · 08-13-2007, 01:34 PM

Wow, I never saw that either! I will have to check it out next time I'm at the trailer. I'm also playing with the 2451 (see the post about the Refer Switch). I think to some degree it helps to have something cold in the fridge. If it's empty or filled with warm food, that might work against you.

Silverhobby · 08-13-2007, 01:44 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by billberk

I have the Dometic 2451 in my 2007 Safari. Refrigerator is on auto setting. Freezer seems to be getting cold but fridge is not. Manual says it could take four hours and it's been at least that. Fan is not running but the switch is on.

The user manual is no help. Do these things just take forever to get cold from a dead start or do I have a problem?

Any suggestions?

If you are experiencing the heat and humidity that 3/4 of the country is, IT WILL take a while. Make sure the fridge is level, side to side and front to rear. If you want to check it out, put a gallon of water in it and check it for temperature in 24 hours. Since the Rv fridge operates on a gravity principle and no compressor, it is slower than a unit that has refrigerant being moved my a compressor. Hope this helps...

GetOutDoors · 08-13-2007, 02:21 PM

Just installed a new NorCold and the manual says it takes 10-12 hours to cool.

Norcold has their owners manuals online . . .

Kevbo10 · 08-13-2007, 02:25 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Safari-Rick

Your refer if it has fins/blades on the upper shelf, you should see a sleeve on the right most blade. You should be able to move it up or down. This ishould be the adjuster for the temp of the refrigerator.

Rick

mr rick,

yikes!

just walked out at looked at the 'dream stream parked next to the barn... i had no idea that "slide" was even there.

do tell...

i'll guess...

up for cooler

and

down for

warmer?

kevin

grantb4 · 08-13-2007, 02:52 PM

That looks like a different fridge than the rm2451, but thanks for the greaat photo -- and I guess the slider thing is just the sensor. I can't image it makes much difference where it's located because the temperature differential across that blade can't be very high. My guess would be moving it farthest from the freezer would be the best bet -- if moving it does anything at all. You'd think the owner's manual would mention this if it was really a user adjustment.

billberk · 08-13-2007, 03:37 PM

The refer was colder this morning, but not what is should be. I've got the slide all the way up. Considering the 100 degrees in the shade temperature around here this week it may just be struggling to get cold.

grantb4 · 08-13-2007, 03:43 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by billberk

The refer was colder this morning, but not what is should be. I've got the slide all the way up. Considering the 100 degrees in the shade temperature around here this week it may just be struggling to get cold.

Do you have anything in it?

doorgunner · 08-13-2007, 04:04 PM

google " Snyders rv refrigeration" . They have the fix for 40 bucks. These rv fridges only work for wine chillers when the outside temp is over 95F.

GetOutDoors · 08-13-2007, 04:23 PM

Can't tell from your first post if you have a three-way or two-way (running DC or AC). Have talked with those who are suppose to know, and they say things are not efficent running DC (true/not true?).

I also live in an area that has been hot for the last 1-2 months and did some testing to see how well my new fridge performed. I've attached a pdf to give some kind of comparison (might help?).

grantb4 · 08-13-2007, 04:44 PM

Wow Spiffy Gem, your fridge is working way better than mine, but mine is empty. If you are at 100F to 110F and are getting 40F in your fridge that's pretty impressive. I guess it might matter which way it faces (sun or shade). I'd be lucky to get 50F-55F under those conditions right now. I think I'm going to try one of these:
title

GetOutDoors · 08-13-2007, 05:20 PM

Thanks - I really have no idea what is normal, just trying to help billberk.

FYI, those temp readings were taken with an empty fridge set at it's max setting, working on AC, with Spiffy parked in direct sunlight. Pictures of the fridge install are found in my photo galley. No fans installed - only a thermal process at work . ..

grantb4, when I read the installation manual for my NorCold prior to installation, they had rigid requirements with regard to the area of intake (else the warranty would be void). That fan from Snyder's RV is very intake restrictive and clearly out of specs from Norcold. Can I assume that if you install it that you will have to use it full time?

If so, that fan looks like the one in my computer case. How much battery is needed to run it per hour?

grantb4 · 08-13-2007, 05:41 PM

I think you would have to run it pretty much all the time. Our current fan runs most of the time except when it's cold out. Hopefully the Synder one is quieter, but frankly right now that's the least of my concerns.

Anybody know of a temperature monitoring station that records hourly or something like that? I use one that accumulates a min and max, but I'd like to track the temps in at least 3 places with more detail than that.

tlavergne · 08-13-2007, 06:12 PM

In regards to the fan from Snyders. I installed one a few weeks ago in my 1978 Ambassador. The frig vent runs up the curbside wall. After the frig was cool I put my hand on the vent wall. It was noticably hot which leads me to believe that the fan system really pulls the air through there helping it cool. Just an observation...
Tom

GetOutDoors · 08-13-2007, 06:34 PM

tlavergne, I would guess just the opposite.

If the air is being moved efficiently, wouldn't that movement keep things, including the flume, from getting that hot?

The thermal process is dependant on the lack of restriction on the intake and the management of restriction at the place of heat transfer to the exhaust. The more cubic inches of space that must be heated, and kept hot, above the heat plates, the hotter that portion of the system must become to keep the thermal process working.

That said, you want the exhaust scoop to be warm so it doesn't cool the air down, else it will cause that cooler air to sink again, and not exit out the exhaust. If that happens, then the thermal process breaks down. The more it happens, the less efficient the system.

I kind of cheat: I had a metal scoop made and have it insulated on the outside with bubble wrap, limiting the out-of-scoop effect.

At least in my thinking . . . for what it's worth.

grantb4 · 08-13-2007, 07:42 PM

It's hard to tell which direction the Synder moves the air. It almost looks to me like it pulls air down from the top, but it's hard to tell from the picture. Anyone have any idea? I think the proof would be how does the fridge operate (without compromising it's life).

Dwight · 08-13-2007, 07:58 PM

How cold should my fridge get? The answer is it depends --- on the ambient temperature, but generally the fridge will operate at 38-42 degrees Fahrenheit (4-6 degrees Celsius). This represents a 40-degree drop from typical ambient temperature, with the temperature control set at 3. A refrigerator in an older coach will lose its efficiency as it ages and it may not be able to maintain this temperature without adjusting to 4 or 5. The freezer section is designed to be 30 degrees (15 degrees Celsius) less than the fridge temperature.

On most side-by-side Dometic fridges and some two-door units, you can also move the thermistor (a white unit with two fine wires going to it) that is attached to the fins in the back of the inside of the fridge. With the fridge set at 3 and normal operating temperatures of 70-75 degrees outside, measure the inside temperature using a fridge thermometer. If the fridge is too warm move the thermistor upwards on the fin (Up is Colder like “Up North”). This will calibrate the temperature and maintain the proper temperature on 3. Hopefully these items make it easier for you to live with you Dometic refrigerator.