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CruizinDux · 09-17-2023, 06:32 PM

Well it worked when we put it away a couple of months ago. Getting ready for a trip, powered up, First the batts neg as they were on a charger LT ( and the rig has a dumb power center,) then 120VAC shore power. Plug tester at the TV showed good to go for 120V. Turned on the refer (Dometic model 2451). Flipped the refer fan switch by the doors…kinda limp…not right… somewhat of snap as usual to off but limp on the depressed top of rocker to “on”. Wish I had my tool bag.

After the stroke a year ago we’ve only used the TT once. I’m thinking the toggle top depressed is “on” and bottom depressed us “off”. However top depresses leg is nothing and bottom expressed snap like an off should. If anyone can please confirm

In the mean time I have pulled the refer switch and all the fire caulk behind it thinking that was my problem. Once home, thinking it thru, I totally forgot about the 1 amp? glass inline fuse between power source and switch. First place to look tomorrow.
However to confirm terminal connection on the back of switch. If someone can confirm
·top terminal: (askew terminal): sm (18/20? blue, i think negative back from fans

·middle terminal: sm (18/20?) red power to fans

·Bottom Terminal: lg red (12/14? is power from a 12v circuit, with a fuse inline before the switch. maybe like the use/store switch it needs power to operate/push in correctly or maybe the fuse is toast.

tomorrow
1st: check for the 1 amp ? inline fuse on lg red before the switch.

If needed…I’ll check all the 15 amp blade fuses for 12vdc, either at the end of the fuse in the exposed part or pull the fuse and check across the two females on the board.

Many thanks

Wazbro · 09-17-2023, 07:55 PM

I have an older trailer, but I read that some of the refer fans also had a thermostat so the fan didn't run when the compartment was under a certain temp (80 or 90 maybe).

CruizinDux · 09-18-2023, 07:05 AM

Thanks Wasbro, we have two side by side fans downstream controlled by a stat. if i have power to them I can test with a hair dryer for operation. if i remove it i use the dryer for temp, measure ohm's on the terminals so i know when it switches to closed ( normally open so fan not running) and with the thermal temp gun can confirm the approximate set point is close to specs. i believe i need to confirm power to the switch first and the stat is downstream.

CruizinDux · 09-18-2023, 07:55 AM

Darn missed the window.

I have two stats. One OEM mounted as usual on the fins vertically and another after market ( 430 Series - 1/2" Thermostat - Airstream Mount(F)
1/2" Temperatures - F: 085 Close 85°F ± 5°F Open 70°F ± 6°F (F047) from Senasys) so it closed about 10-15 deg lower than OEM, and also opens about 15 deg higher than oem...so comes on sooner and stays on longer.

I have also shortened the upper sheet and added a taller lower on so that the only the fans are exposed but easily removed for maintenance like now!.

I also have a smaller 3rd fan that sits just above the coils (with a thermostat) but powered by a toggle switch neat the board and connected to the refer power terminal, that I used for extremely hot days

ITSNO60 · 09-18-2023, 08:19 AM

As for your switch question, the negative is just for the light in the switch and can come from anywhere that's grounded. So you just need a negative then the other two switch the load on and off. If you get the two for the load mixed up the switch will stay lit all the time, then just reverse them. Using a multimeter on the new switch you can easily identify the terminals by seeing which two have continuity in one switch position, those two are the power in and load out. The continuity should be zero or near zero resistance, you may still get continuity between the negative and one of the pos due to the bulb but that won't change with switch position like the correct two will.
If you want to power the fan temporarily before you get your new switch just twist the power and load wires together with a wire nut.

Silvr_Bullet · 09-18-2023, 09:37 AM

Got this test from Uncle Bob, my trailer has the ‘Refer Switch’, although you can switch it on ( confirmed on by red light lit ) the fan won’t operate until the temperature in the compartment reaches higher degrees. Use a hair dryer to raise temperature to confirm all is working.

Boba911 · 09-18-2023, 04:26 PM

I have a 2018 Tommy Bahama with the factory fan setup and a red light switch inside. My problem was that the fan never came on at any temp. I decided that the problem was the thermostat, so I took it out to get a new one. After looking up the manufactures part number for the same device, I found that the thermostat rating was 135 degrees! No wonder it never came on. Ended up wiring the fan directly to the switch. Now when I turn on the frig, I turn on the fan as well. And yes, the fan will only come on at a set temp controlled by the setting of the thermostat.

Silvr_Bullet · 09-18-2023, 06:49 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Boba911

I have a 2018 Tommy Bahama with the factory fan setup and a red light switch inside. My problem was that the fan never came on at any temp. I decided that the problem was the thermostat, so I took it out to get a new one. After looking up the manufactures part number for the same device, I found that the thermostat rating was 135 degrees! No wonder it never came on. Ended up wiring the fan directly to the switch. Now when I turn on the frig, I turn on the fan as well. And yes, the fan will only come on at a set temp controlled by the setting of the thermostat.

For reference if Air temperature is 85 F in one hour the interior of a car will reach approximately 128 F, in that context 135 F is certainly attainable with an Aluminum body sitting in the sun, the automobile doesn’t have a refrigerator under its skin either. If the system works as intended the fan will cycle on and off, I don’t believe 135 F degrees is an unreasonable bench mark for the environment, of course that’s just my opinion.

CruizinDux · 09-18-2023, 07:41 PM

Spent some time with the meter today. All the 12v 15 am fuses were fine so moved on to the inline 1 amp fuse, just before the switch was toast. Slipped in a new one and had a line reading 12.53 on the meter. Spaced it, pic seems I had the load into the small blue but maybe it was the small red (to the fans?)

However the switch was limp and I set of to a somewhat local AS dealer looking for the switch. They didn't have a lighted one and couldn't find on in the catalogue so I bought a black on/off with two terminals. In the end instead of buying just the toggle and terminals that slips into the housing, I had to buy a black surround, and remove the black toggle and slip it in the beige OEM housing

As ITSNO60 suggested I determined/labeled the top depressed as on and the bottom depressed as off.

So my last question, I have a small red and a blue but not sure which is load to the fans the other being for the now non existing light in the switch. Any suggestions?

In the am, I'll wire around the stat for now (and assume they are working) and hook up the line side of the switch with the Lg red. I believe the small red is load to fans and may try that first if I don't here any advice. Then tape tape over the blue and tuck it back inside the compartment, for future if I ever find or want a lighted switch. I liked the reminder of the lighted switch, but in reality had to cover it with jackets etc so it wouldn't light up the trailer so much when sleeping.

Things happen for a reason I guess.

ITSNO60 · 09-18-2023, 07:45 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by CruizinDux

Spent some time with the meter today. All the 12v 15 am fuses were fine so moved on to the inline 1 amp fuse, just before the switch was toast. Slipped in a new one and had a line reading 12.53 on the meter. Spaced it, pic seems I had the load into the small blue but maybe it was the small red (to the fans?)

However the switch was limp and I set of to a somewhat local AS dealer looking for the switch. They didn't have a lighted one and couldn't find on in the catalogue so I bought a black on/off with two terminals. In the end instead of buying just the toggle and terminals that slips into the housing, I had to buy a black surround, and remove the black toggle and slip it in the beige OEM housing

As ITSNO60 suggested I determined/labeled the top depressed as on and the bottom depressed as off.

So my last question, I have a small red and a blue but not sure which is load to the fans the other being for the now non existing light in the switch. Any suggestions?

In the am, I'll wire around the stat for now (and assume they are working) and hook up the line side of the switch with the Lg red. I believe the small red is load to fans and may try that first if I don't here any advice. Then tape tape over the blue and tuck it back inside the compartment, for future if I ever find or want a lighted switch. I liked the reminder of the lighted switch, but in reality had to cover it with jackets etc so it wouldn't light up the trailer so much when sleeping.

Things happen for a reason I guess.

Find which one is the negative, the other will go to the fan. The light doesn't have a positive, it uses the same one as the load (fan), it just has a separate negative.
If you measure between the positive that you have identified, and each of the two remaining wires you should see full battery voltage on one and zero, or less than full battery voltage, on the other. The one with full voltage is the negative and you won't need it anymore without the pilot light switch.

CruizinDux · 09-18-2023, 07:56 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Boba911

I have a 2018 Tommy Bahama with the factory fan setup and a red light switch inside. My problem was that the fan never came on at any temp. I decided that the problem was the thermostat, so I took it out to get a new one. After looking up the manufactures part number for the same device, I found that the thermostat rating was 135 degrees! No wonder it never came on. Ended up wiring the fan directly to the switch. Now when I turn on the frig, I turn on the fan as well. And yes, the fan will only come on at a set temp controlled by the setting of the thermostat.

I wanted to get a good run on the temp so went to two fans.
https://www.walmart.com/ip/SilenX-Ix...20-mm/41954382
90 CFM and 18 DB. extremely quiet and efficient

I also want to stay ahead of the when the call for fans occurred

https://senasys.com/product/12-therm...430-301a092-f/

I found that closing (fan on) at 85 and opening at 70 (fan off) .accomplished.

( 430 Series - 1/2" Thermostat - Airstream Mount(F)
1/2" Temperatures - F: 085 Close 85°F ± 5°F Open 70°F ± 6°F (F047) from Senasys)

We don't boondock so always have SP or batt when OTR. I'm just found that if we wait till refer temps rise quickly when it's warm, it takes a very long time to recover. As with the above open/close they usually shut down late in the eve and generally don't come on until the mid morning. I have been know to open up the upper refer door when it gets hot.

I also bought (WM??) to remoter thermometers with a remote display so I can watch refer temps more closely. I just got tired of being behind the curve and throwing food away.

ITSNO60 · 09-18-2023, 07:58 PM

Before you wire around the thermal switch beware that it may be switching the negative. Test first for battery voltage at the fan with the switch on. If there is battery voltage at the fan but it is not running the negative is likely provided by the thermal switch.

I only mention this because that is how mine is wired, although I do not have an Airstream trailer.

CruizinDux · 09-18-2023, 08:25 PM

Brian thanks

"beware that it may be switching the negative. Test first for battery voltage at the fan with the switch on."

I'm not sure what switching the negative translates to.

So, wire the switch lg red (line) and small red (load) leads, turn on and test for voltage on each side of the stat? If it's running, all good. And if it's not..."the negative is likely provided by the thermal switch."

can you clarify? I'm not sure I understand.

ITSNO60 · 09-19-2023, 06:52 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by CruizinDux

Brian thanks

"beware that it may be switching the negative. Test first for battery voltage at the fan with the switch on."

I'm not sure what switching the negative translates to.

So, wire the switch lg red (line) and small red (load) leads, turn on and test for voltage on each side of the stat? If it's running, all good. And if it's not..."the negative is likely provided by the thermal switch."

can you clarify? I'm not sure I understand.

You need a negative and a positive for the fan to run. Either one can be switched in a 12 volt setup. It's possible that your switch provides the positive to the fan when it is closed, but the fan still won't run till the thermal switch closes and provides the negative.

It s also possible that the fan already has a negative permanently attached in which case your switch sends the positive to the thermal switch which in turn closes and starts the fan when needed.

It can be wired either way.

CruizinDux · 09-19-2023, 08:05 AM

Brian, thanks. think i have it. i remember when i installed the fans i needed to id the positive (used the batt terminals) as would not run otherwise.

As usual when i check i'll. have the hair dryer handy. on high, only takes about a minute to close.

thx for your help!

CruizinDux · 09-19-2023, 12:11 PM

What's that Jackie Gleason saying..."How sweet it is"

Connected lg line red to switch and smaller load red too. Depressed top to "turn on" the f ans, 10 seconds with the hairdryer on high pointed at the stat...spin city!

Maybe with some searching I could have found a lighted red three terminal switch, but opted for black and no light as that's what they had. I'm color blind anyway and was tired of the light's brilliant illumination of the interior at night. So it's a win win as they say.

On (lower toggle depressed) like the bathroom is the setup. May look for the label maker for those senior moments so I can looks the duct tape.

Thank to everyone for the feedback!

Happy trail's