Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
Old 02-10-2012, 05:19 PM   #21
New Member
Greenwood , South Carolina
Join Date: Feb 2012
Posts: 1
I would go with a good RV type fridge. The inverter idea is good, but what about a stop over on the way to your vacation. What if you have truck trouble and have wait to have the truck fixed? Will you ever go to a Nascar race and boon dock ? Even if you have a generator I would not want to run it 24/7.

Propane fridge will run for weeks on propane.Inverter will drain your battery in a few hours. How many batteries are you willing to add?

The RV fridges look better in general and fit tighter in the cabinets. Resale is better with a RV type fridge .

I have never had a problem with a RV fridge on two different used campers. Buy a new fridge and it comes with a warranty and then buy a extended warranty if you are worried about it.
Maxwell is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-13-2012, 12:02 PM   #22
3 Rivet Member
musicmaster's Avatar
1976 31' Sovereign
Greenwood , South Carolina
Join Date: Jul 2010
Posts: 101
Images: 10
Is anyone familiar with a Dometic NDA1402 wide by side fridge. I am looking at getting it for my A/S. Only problem is if it will fit through the door. Dometic said it was 26" +/- 1/8". I asked which one, plus 1/8 will not fit and -1/8 will, they did not know. Not a lot of help considering they made it. Any ideas?
musicmaster is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-13-2012, 12:15 PM   #23
Site Team
azflycaster's Avatar

2002 25' Safari
Dewey , Arizona
Join Date: Mar 2005
Posts: 14,094
Images: 62
Blog Entries: 1
Acording to this, it is even deeper (29 5/8") than you stated.

The doors could be removed to get it in, but it still might not fit.


Wally Byam Airstream Club 7513
azflycaster is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-13-2012, 12:18 PM   #24
Figment of My Imagination
Protagonist's Avatar
2012 Interstate Coach
From All Over , More Than Anywhere Else
Join Date: Dec 2011
Posts: 10,868
The dimensions given at the RV Fridge Store (Dometic NDA1402 Sidewise Refrigerator - Factory New) show 26-1/16 inches thick. 29-5/8 might include the carboard box it comes in, for an overall shipping dimension.

You might squeeze some extra clearance by bringing it inside with the refrigerator doors off, as stated by azflycaster. In fact, even if you have enough clearance, I'd do that anyway, to minimize the chance of scratching up the doors in the process.
I thought getting old would take longer!
Protagonist is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-13-2012, 12:42 PM   #25
Rivet Master
1974 Argosy 20
2014 20' Flying Cloud
Kooskia , Idaho
Join Date: Jul 2009
Posts: 4,591
Several posts have suggested adding more insulation to the exterior of a household refrigerator to improve it's efficiency. Be aware that many, but not all, smaller household refrigerators use the exterior case as the heat disposal method and must not be installed in an enclosed space (sides and top) and never insulated on the exterior. Only household refrigerators with coils on the back are suitable for replacement in an enclosed space.

Also, if you are looking for an efficient unit, look at he mandatory yellow energy "hang tag" on the one you are considering. If possible find one that has an energy use of 300 Kwh a year, or lower. Many are higher, much higher. Small does not mean energy efficient in many cases. I have seen dorm type little 20" cube units with hang tags showing higher energy use.
idroba is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-14-2012, 09:06 AM   #26
3 Rivet Member
musicmaster's Avatar
1976 31' Sovereign
Greenwood , South Carolina
Join Date: Jul 2010
Posts: 101
Images: 10
I'm sorry, I should have mentioned that the measurements I got from Dometic, 29" +/- 1/8" were without the doors.
musicmaster is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-17-2012, 09:19 PM   #27
1 Rivet Member
Chandler , Arizona
Join Date: Sep 2011
Posts: 16

If you’ve spent any amount of time on these forums you’ll know that you need to consider the difference between opinion and experience when shifting through the advice.

Many of the opinions given here so far are based on bias and conventional thinking and many of the points offered –about weight, resale, power draw, el cheapo renos, etc. – are just conjecture or plain wrong.

Whether you can use a 110 v. fridge depends mostly on how you plan to use the trailer. If you’re going to be mainly in the boonies then 110v is probably not so workable. I think you already knew that when you posted.

I opted for a small, very light, 8.6 cubic foot LG household fridge for my remodel. I’ve used it for 5 years without a hint of a problem.

The idea was put into my head by Andy Thompson, the long time Airstream dealer at London, Ontario, when he opined that a household fridge like this is a perfect size for trailer living and could easily be powered by a 1500 watt inverter.

His said it was well built but lighter than an RV fridge and cost 75% less. It could be repaired anywhere by pretty much anyone – no tricky LP or 12v systems. You could actually throw it out and get a new one if it ever broke down.

The fridge normally operates on shore power but when I am going overland for any serious amount of time, or dry-camped overnight, it operates perfectly off of my battery pack. QUOTE]

Hello Musicmaster,

On a previous moho, I had unsatisfactory cooling with the rv frig and put in a WHIRLPOOL, 9.6 CU FT stainless from Lowes, $450 6489&Ns=p_product_prd_lis_ord_nbr|0||p_product_qty _sales_dollar|1&pl=1§tURL=%2Fpl_96_4294789497%2B42 94789094_109_%3FNs%3Dp_product_prd_lis_ord_nbr|0|| p_product_qty_sales_dollar|1&facetInfo=9.6

Had to trim less than 1/2 inch from oak cabinet edge. Monitored its power consumption with a "Kill-a-watt" tool and never saw start-up power draw of more than 100 watts. Within 5-10 seconds it settled down to 30-45 watts. Forget the amp draw but it was so miniscule, I knew there was no worry of using it while on road and had plenty of battery storage for extended boondocking, if ever needed. Two good batteries in an AS should give plenty of run time.

One of the electrical wizards here could do the calculation watts/volts/amps to confirm the small amp draw.

I say put it in use it as you want. The first sign of trouble with my current Dometic in the AS...and its gone in favor of the Whirlpool. The stainless was instore and not least locally.

rdhoyum is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-18-2012, 11:32 AM   #28
3 Rivet Member
musicmaster's Avatar
1976 31' Sovereign
Greenwood , South Carolina
Join Date: Jul 2010
Posts: 101
Images: 10
Thanks for the extra info, I'll check it out.
musicmaster is offline   Reply With Quote

Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off

Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Clipper, Dometic Refrigerator, Fridge Lamp Switch masseyfarm Flat-Front (Cutter, Clipper, XC, XL & Skydeck) Motorhomes 10 01-05-2013 11:14 AM
Fridge Sorta Kinda Works perryg114 Refrigerators 17 10-23-2011 07:46 PM
'69 Overlander Fridge: RM 2500 gas electric edglenn Refrigerators 1 09-07-2011 10:09 AM
New fridge on the Outs? skydiva Refrigerators 2 07-04-2011 03:04 PM
Skip the Fridge? (Overlander Newbie) pyrenees Refrigerators 15 05-09-2011 05:30 PM

Featured Campgrounds

Reviews provided by


This website is not affiliated with or endorsed by the Airstream, Inc. or any of its affiliates. Airstream is a registered trademark of Airstream Inc. All rights reserved. Airstream trademark used under license to Social Knowledge LLC.

All times are GMT -6. The time now is 06:19 PM.

Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.8 Beta 1
Copyright ©2000 - 2020, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.