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Old 06-02-2020, 05:57 PM   #1
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Heating elements for Rm100 Frig

Has anyone ever had the wires to the frig element burn, ac side? 12v side was getting hot too. Was working before we left the house for our 3 day camping trip then burnt once we got to the campgrounds. Working fine on LP.
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Old 06-02-2020, 05:58 PM   #2
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Also are the elements still available any where?
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Old 06-02-2020, 06:55 PM   #3
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I had mine go bad and burned the A/C side on one of the leads. My unit is only gas and electric, but was able to replace the heating element. I got mine from "RV Adventure Net" and paid $39 for it. Shipping wasn't that much maybe around $8. I did find mine on Ebay, but they have their own store.
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Old 06-02-2020, 07:08 PM   #4
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Mine is a 3 way unit. But am glad to here I should be able to get new elements for it. This is what happened on Sunday May 31,2020.
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Old 06-02-2020, 07:09 PM   #5
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The 2 heavier wires are hooked on the 12v side, the thin ones ore the 120v side. I was thinking they should be the other way around but that is how it was wired when we bought the trailer last year
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Old 06-02-2020, 07:13 PM   #6
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This our trailer with the tv. Still need to finish the polishing.
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Old 06-02-2020, 07:15 PM   #7
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When you get the new element, check the terminals with a multi-meter before you install it to make sure which voltage goes to what. I see I have extra blades on the control/switch box, but it's only a 2 way fridge. Now I am curious to see what the voltage is on the the extra two blades. Something to do tomorrow when its light outside.
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Old 06-02-2020, 07:27 PM   #8
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I have 2 different connection points, on for the ac side and one for the DC side. DC side has a relay in it also, which also needs replaced do to old age. (rusty terminals).
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Old 06-03-2020, 11:15 AM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SlvrTwinkie View Post
The 2 heavier wires are hooked on the 12v side, the thin ones ore the 120v side. I was thinking they should be the other way around but that is how it was wired when we bought the trailer last year
Larger gauge wire is necessary for higher current. An equivalent 12 volt load pulls 10x the amps (current) as a 120 volt load. That is why the 12 volt side has larger gauge wiring.
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Old 06-03-2020, 02:44 PM   #10
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Ok, Didn't think about the current flow requiring a larger gauge wire for the 12v side, but makes total sense. I am beginning to think the parks electrical was a huge part of the problem with 120v side burning in two like it did. Last night around 8:30-9 pm EDT the A/C compressor stopped working too. Now to get on top and look at it and to find 2 new elements for the frig.
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Old 06-09-2020, 07:49 AM   #11
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Alright now, got the new element ordered and should have it this Saturday (fingers crossed). Now on the 12 volt side of the system, can I use a larger gauge wire then what is on it so the wires don't get as hot? Also is the relay a special relay or can I pick one up at any auto parts store?
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Old 06-09-2020, 08:45 AM   #12
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Bigger is better with respect to wir4 size.

Quote:
Originally Posted by SlvrTwinkie View Post
Alright now, got the new element ordered and should have it this Saturday (fingers crossed). Now on the 12 volt side of the system, can I use a larger gauge wire then what is on it so the wires don't get as hot? Also is the relay a special relay or can I pick one up at any auto parts store?
The larger the wire gauge the lower the resistance loss in the wire. This goes for all electronic devices and is especially critical for long wire runs with high draw devices. Using an electric blower or skillsaw with a 100’ - 18 gauge cord is a classic example. The voltage loss through that long cord can reduce the power arriving at the device by 30% 0r more which then reduces the life of the device. Same issue with long runs of power cords from the pedestal to the trailer. A 14 gauge, 50’ cord is insufficient IMHO.

So to answer your question, sure, bigger wire is fine. Smaller wire isn’t. As far as the relay is concerned, as long as the voltage and amp rating is the same, no problem.
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Old 06-09-2020, 01:42 PM   #13
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The reason I asked about increasing the wire size on 12v side of fridge is because the wires seem to get quite warm when it is on 12v. just got done putting a multimeter on it with the fridge on 12v, and it was only showing 10.3 volts at the element. at the terminal block on the fridge it was only showing 11.5 volts. Tested at the fuse panel by the converter and was getting 13.02 out of the converter. A PO ran about a 12ga solid copper wire from the battery to the fridge. I think it should be atleast a multi strand wire instead of a solid, am I right thinking that? Battery is on curb side almost straight across from the fridge on the road side. I can get stranded wire and replace it if that's what it should be to get voltage back up to 12v minimum. Oh should have the 275watt 120v element in the mail Saturday.

If a stranded wire is recommended for the run from bat to fridge, what is the ideal size wires to run, 12ga or 10ga?
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Old 06-11-2020, 08:57 AM   #14
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Relay and glass fuse holder

Ok update. I knew there was a possibility the relay was going bad do to hearing a buzzing sound from it. I had the fridge on 12v to see how well it was going to do here at home, next morning the fuse holder melted. Yesterday I bought a 12v 480w/40 amp automotive relay and a new 30 amp glass fuse holder. Installed both components yesterday afternoon and turned the fridge back on.

Checked the voltage again and it is now up around 11.36v. After 17 hours of being on the freezer is down around +20F and fridge is down to +41F and still going down. USPS shows I am to receive the 120v element today in the mail and will install it later this afternoon or tomorrow.

The wires to the 12v element are still very hot but atleast now I can grab the wire without possibly receiving a burn like before.

Still thinking I should replace the pos and neg wires from the BAT with either 12 ga or 10 ga multi strand wires and get rid of the solid copper (romex) that PO's father in law put in. Also is the relay I bought and installed a good replacement for the factory relay or should I look around for a different relay specific to use in the fridge? The wiring diagram does not show what size of relay to use but it does show I need a minimum of a 25 amp fuse. Think the fuse that was in it was to small.
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Old 06-11-2020, 01:14 PM   #15
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New 120v element

Well got my new 120v element today. Yahoo! Word of advice, DO NOT try installing the replacement element if you have the fridge turned on either 12v or LP, burnt a finger when it touched the boiler. But got it installed by the boiler and plugged up at the control box.

Here are pics of the compartment. First one is the new element installed. 2nd one is of the 12ga romex (solid wire) PO's father in law installed from the battery.
3rd is of the relay I installed yesterday for the 12v side, the orange wire at the bottom is the new 3amp glass fuse holder. Old one burnt in two.
Sorry the first 2 pics are sideways and the 3rd is upside down. Have no idea how that happened unless it has something to do with me having my phone sideways to take the picture.
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