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Old 11-12-2007, 05:55 PM   #21
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1976 31' Sovereign
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OK, I tried to put the frig on gas and it will light but not stay lit. It lights every time, but won't stay lit when I release the knob. I think it's time to throw in the towel and ask for help. I'm calling my RV doctor to see if he can come get this thing out of the yard for me. I can get it home and park it, but I can't get it out of here. Bob's been sent to Tucson until Christmas and then on the California to build a large store. I guess it's all up to me now.
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Old 11-12-2007, 06:01 PM   #22
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I find that I need to hold the knob out for a full 30 seconds after I light my fridge. Maybe you let it go too soon. I know it is a PITA to hold it.

Why not take the trailer to Tucson? It's a great place to visit this time of the year. Tucson also has Oasis RV which is a great Airstream service dealer.

Stick around untill New Years and join us at the Picacho Peak News Years Rally. It's just up the road...
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Old 11-12-2007, 06:45 PM   #23
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Sounds like a great idea...oops I forgot, I have to work. I held the knob out for about 2 mins and it still won't stay on. The thermostat knob isn't making the control turn so I tried to use needlenose plyers, can't really tell where I get it set. I don't think I like this appliance and I don't think it likes me.
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Old 11-12-2007, 08:48 PM   #24
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I'm calling Palamino tomorrow. A 31 year old refrigerator deserves a rest and so do I. Thanks for all your support.
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Old 11-12-2007, 09:57 PM   #25
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Dometic RM76 for Sale

Does anyone want an RM76? It works, but the frame is warped. We can't figure it out. If you're in need of parts to make yours work, this may be the answer. We have the vent cover as well. We are replacing it with a Home Depot special. Let us know if this is something of interest and we'll make arrangements...
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Old 11-18-2007, 08:06 PM   #26
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1962 24' Tradewind
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Dometic fixed

Ah ha. After much frustration with the Dometic S1621 in our '69 Sovereign, I ordered the Dinosaur P-711 control board and installed it. It works. I now can run on AC. I haven't tried gas, but that was not a problem before. Thanks to all who suggested the testing data that finally allowed me to pin it down to control board. I still think they use aliens(martians?) to assemble these things because anyone with regular size hands and arms has a difficult time undoing the old board and installing the new one. Needed 6 skinny fingers per hand and really long thin arms. But since the part was attached before the unit was installed the first time they probably figured someone besides them would have to fix it. Also I'll bet that the really original unit fit directly behind the access port anyway.

Along these same lines, the plug in for the fridge is precisely behind the access door and has seen its share water infliltration. I replaced the electrical box, put new gasket material on the access cover, and am going to build some sort of water resistant cover for the box.

thanks again to all for the info.
bill b.
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Old 11-18-2007, 08:12 PM   #27
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Glad to hear that you got it working.

Another success story!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
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Old 11-18-2007, 08:54 PM   #28
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Sounds to me like the same people who put together car dashboards work part-time on Dometic fridges installing control boards...
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Old 05-08-2008, 12:46 PM   #29
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Dead Dometic

Quote:
Originally Posted by lewster
Jared,

First, you should do a continuity test on the element to see if it is good. If no continuity, replace it, as this is the problem.

If the element tests OK, then it might be a control board problem. A quick test for this is to remove the leads for the element at the board, make a pigtail with a 120VAC extension cord and 1/4" male connectors on the other end, and plug the element directly into a 120VAC outlet. Give it a couple of hours, and you should feel heat at the chimney burner section. If it works with the direct application of 120VAC, you need a new control board.
I just returned to my '74 Ambassador after 1 week of travel to find my refer (Royal Dometic) dead - I left it working perfectly on AC and came back to a bunch of stinky food last night. I do not know if it works on gas as I have never run it other than on AC, nor do I intend to ever use it with gas - I know many people feel confined to "the grid" with AC only, but I find it easier to come across AC then propane.

Are there any specific troubleshooting steps other than checking the resistance of the heating element? I did not smell any ammonia either.

Any help would be appreciated in getting it running again (on AC) but I think I may just bite the bullet and replace with a new AC model,

Thanks, Jay
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Old 05-08-2008, 09:14 PM   #30
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CBsquidSS
I just returned to my '74 Ambassador after 1 week of travel to find my refer (Royal Dometic) dead - I left it working perfectly on AC and came back to a bunch of stinky food last night. I do not know if it works on gas as I have never run it other than on AC, nor do I intend to ever use it with gas - I know many people feel confined to "the grid" with AC only, but I find it easier to come across AC then propane.

Are there any specific troubleshooting steps other than checking the resistance of the heating element? I did not smell any ammonia either.

Any help would be appreciated in getting it running again (on AC) but I think I may just bite the bullet and replace with a new AC model,

Thanks, Jay
Jay,

If you test the continuity (and resistance) of the element and it is OK, then you have to look at the outlet the unit is plugged into and verify that it has 120VAC coming from it. Also, be sure that you have 12VDC feeding the board.

Often overlooked are the 2 fuses inside the control board cover. The one on the left is the AC fuse, and the one (auto type) fuse in the lower central section is the DC fuse. Be sure thay are good also..............

If that is OK, and the element is good, it's almost a sure bet that it is the control board!!!

Easy test is to trace the wires from the element back to the board, remove them, make a jumper so they will plug directly into the 120VAC outlet and see if your element heats up. This will confirm that you have a bad board!
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Old 05-09-2008, 06:56 AM   #31
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Thanks for the additional info - I will be looking into it today. I'll ppost my troubleshooting results,

regards
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Old 05-09-2008, 10:26 AM   #32
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jared129
May we look at the other side of the coin? What would be the most likley reason the fridge would work fine on propane but does not run on city power?
Check your connections. I had a corroded connection on the temperature adjustment knob in my Trade Wind. All I had to do was clean it and everything was fine.
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Old 05-10-2008, 08:35 AM   #33
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Here is my update – looks like the heating element is bad. After measuring an OPEN at the termional board, I founf on of the conductors broken/burned through. So now I guess a replacement element for my Dometic 77 is in order. Where is the best place to find one of these?
Thanks for all of the help, BTW, Lew where are the fuses you mentioned? That would be good knowledge to have.
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Old 05-10-2008, 08:30 PM   #34
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All fixed

Found an element at a local RV repair shop and my refer is all happy again - thanks for the help
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Old 05-12-2008, 05:14 PM   #35
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lewster
Juel,

Sounds like you have a bad heating element. If you have a multi-meter, set it to ohms, unplug the wires from the element that go into the control board and put the meter on the leads. You should get about 45 ohms as a reading. If you get nothing, you need a new element, which is way cheaper than a new fridge for $300.

Let me know if you have any other problems.
Hi Lewster; I have a bad element in my M 52 Dometic. Do you have access to a new element for this 40 year old model?
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