Fridge heats up while driving on LP

[gregshade]

I have a 2007 25’ FB. Fridge works well on electric or LP when stationary. When driving and on LP, it heats up from 35F into the mid 50s in 4-5 hours. Setting is on 5. Outside temp is in the 80s.

I reviewed the forum and have implemented several suggestions.
1) Cleaned flu
2) installed small fan inside fridge
3) installed 2 105cfm fans in outside compartment.

None of these changes has solved the problem.

I’m at a loose how to proceed. Any suggestions would be appreciated.

Thanks
Greg

[GCinSC2]

Greg

A suggestion for monitoring temp while driving a remote indoor outdoor thermometer. Put remote in fridge receiver in TV. Allows monitoring while driving. I do this and run propane while driving it’s a great monitoring tool.

You said 2007 right?

Did you get the Dometic recall kit installed?

Not sure, open fridge outside door take pic and post.

Can’t hurt to do dollar bill test on door seal.

Gary

[Malia20]

If it works on LP standing still and not while traveling, that sounds like the burner is getting blown out by the passing wind. I know those burners can be temperamental. My 10 year old fridge in my previous class-B stopped working on LP while on a trip. When I got home, a good vacuuming of the rust and crud around the burner and the fridge was back to working. It's possible your burner is working marginally and the extra wind is enough to knock it out. Check to see that all parts/baffles are looking good in the burner area, and next time you travel, at a stop see if the burner is going and the area is warm. I think your previous fixes address potential problems that would not be dependent on moving.
Good luck!
Fred

[damonbeals]

Believe it or not.. If you get too much ventilation on the coils, you will have the same problem, don't run any cooling fans while traveling, you might have too much cooling which will keep the fridge from working. You might even need to block of some of the vents to reduce the amount of air and cooling as you travel.
Not enough heat in the coils and system will cause the temps inside the fridge to rise.



Damon
#4827

[BayouBiker]

Here are some other ideas. The ones already suggested seem sound except for the idea that the condenser coils might be too cold as it defies the laws of thermodynamics. I'm going to have to call bs on that, sorry Damon.

The fridge door seals might be fine when stopped but maybe its loose so the seal is lost as the door rattles while traveling.

The gas pressure may be low. Does the stove have a nice strong and completely blue flame?

The gas orifice or carburetor may be plugged or out of adjustment.

[skyguyscott]

It's certainly worth trying to troubleshoot and fix, but if the fridge doesn't want to work well on the road, a workaround is to freeze your food a few days before your trip, cool the fridge a day or two before departure, then pack in the frozen food before leaving.

During travel the fridge will still act like an ice box, and the frozen food may start to slowly defrost, but still stay safely cold until you arrive at your destination.

[gregshade]

What is best way to check The burner? How does one know if it is properly adjusted?

[BayouBiker]

First, I'd confirm that while not driving, but running propane it also does not stay cool.

2) Confirm the stove and the furnace both have strong blue flames. No oranges, greens or yellows.

3) make sure the refrigerator is warm so the cooling is operating Open the door if you have to.

4) Here is a link with pictures of a typical set up. The propane burner and also the electric heat element are attached to a boiler off to the side in the back. A pipe runs from the bottom of a metal accumulator bottle and goes to the boiler, that heats the ammonia water solution and distills (separates) ammonia from the water. The ammonia boils at about 110 degrees so the boiler shroud should feel hot but not hot enough to burn you. If it is not hot while it is supposed to be cooling the burner is not functioning correctly.

5) if you're still unsure, compare the feel of the boiler shroud when running on electric heat. It should be the same temperature as with propane.

Try this and come back to us.

[GCinSC2]

Greg,

Take a look at the manuals here https://myrvworks.com/manuals/ you can filter for fridge and Dometic and Darren has complied a library of model specific manuals and testing and training docs.

If it works on gas while stationary and warms up while driving I'm still curious to know if yours was subject to the recall and if the recall service was performed. It included on my 2007 a large panel that shields the burner area. You can search the forum but going to the Dometic website and search for recalls should confirm if req'd. A posted pic should allow forum members to comment if recall parts are installed, it's that obvious.

Burners need cleaning to clear whatever dust, crud, spider webs and mud daubers if applicable. The gas flame is a pretty small flame not like the roar of a water heater flame.

Gary

[Malia20]

The burner is is in the lower right as Brian's link shows. You should see a propane delivery pipe leading from the left side into that area. Looking in you should see the flame. Night time it is easy to find. The first time I saw it I thought I was seeing the pilot light, but then remembered, these are electric ignited. So a small easy flame, I'd equate to a butane lighter on medium. I think the real test is to see if the flame is there after traveling, like right away at a stop. Does your refer go into fault mode when it can not light? Can't remember on my '07 refer, but my Airstream refer shows a fault light on the front panel if the refer cannot light the burner. And I agree with Gary, if you're missing wind baffles included in a recall, that would explain it all.
Fred

[Mike G]

Originally Posted by gregshade

I have a 2007 25’ FB. Fridge works well on electric or LP when stationary. When driving and on LP, it heats up from 35F into the mid 50s in 4-5 hours. Setting is on 5. Outside temp is in the 80s.

I reviewed the forum and have implemented several suggestions.
1) Cleaned flu
2) installed small fan inside fridge
3) installed 2 105cfm fans in outside compartment.

None of these changes has solved the problem.

I’m at a loose how to proceed. Any suggestions would be appreciated.

Thanks
Greg

I've never heard of this. If it works while stationary STRICTLY on LP (i.e. not Auto), it should work while in motion. I'd bring it in. There's definitely something wrong . . .

[devilsbox]

Is the trailer level when hooked up to your tow vehicle? That’s my first thought. I’m no expert though.

Larry

[John & Roberta]

gregshade

On a five-hour highway stretch some months ago I lost refrigeration (2018 FC 30RB, Dometic 8 cuft). LPG bottles were open . . . but Battery Disconnect was in STORE, thus—I assume—no DC voltage to fridge. Learning that lesson, I now travel with Disconnect switch in USE with at least one LPG bottle open . . . with intention to secure LPG before entering gas stations.

I'm looking for a little elucidation re requirement of DC voltage for fridge to work using LPG, as well offering what may turn out to be a solution for you. Even with long drives, I've not had the problem repeat.

jgbailey

[Jacob D]

I am a vintage guy so I am not familiar with newer refers but our experience was similar so we added sheet metal around the outside of the burner area to lessen air turbulence which helped. The thing that made the most difference though was removing the burner orifice, soaking it overnight in denatured alcohol (from Lowe's) and blowing it out with pure canned air like you use to clean computer parts (bought from Wal Mart). Be careful not to let anything else touch it and don't stick anything into it. Then make sure the flame is adjusted correctly, nice blue cone shape with no yellow and little to no flutter. You can play with this by adjusting the air flow to get maximum heating. We have had to do this about every three or four years. We clean the flu pipe yearly.

[Gleverett]

I would check the seals and make sure the door is pushed in well. You might even try taping it closed as a test next trip. I've had my refrigerator temp go up before traveling on LP and it was the door not sealed well. Just a thought!

[gregshade]

Question, how do you do the dollar test on the fridge? I put it on the gasket and close the door and it pulls out with slight resistance. Is it not supposed to be Able to be pulled out?

[GCinSC2]

Greg,

Dollar bill test, that my check. Compare to fridge at home but I bet it'll have a heavier pull out. But if fridge runs for days normal while stationary, that makes this a well it can't hurt to check it type of item.

Recall?

Gary

[guskmg]

I know this is going to sound ridiculous, but here it is: I had the same problem a few years back and a sharp dealer told me to clean the circuit board's plugs contacts with a pencil eraser. We did and it fixed the problem. The words is that Dometic does not use gold contacts, so they erode quickly. I do think that making sure you have the Domestic burner recall completed will held the issue.
guskmg

[John & Roberta]

Airstream manual for my 2018 Flying Cloud (with Dometic refrigerator) instructs the trailer owner/reader to carefully study the supplied manuals for installed appliances. This morning I poured over Dometic Installation and Operation manuals . . . and I quote—

12V VDC Connection
RM2451, RM2551, DM2652, DM2852, RM3762, RM3962, RM1350, RM1350SL & NDA1402: these refrigerator models are not designed for 12 VDC operation of the cooling system; however, 12VDC must be supplied to operate the controls.

On one trip of 5+ hours duration I secured the trailer and as a last step before closing and locking the door, I toggled Battery Disconnect (beside door on inside) to the STORE position, which, as I understand it, cuts 12 VDC off from everything but the LPG sensor. Without the 12 VDC input, the Dometic refer is not able to operate it's thermostat (and likely shuts down cooling mechanism).

So, if you want to maintain refrigerator operation whilst driving, your Battery Disconnect must be in USE position . . . and one or both LPG bottles must be open, though a RVer is advised NOT to drive with LPG bottles open, and especially one should NOT enter a gas station with either bottle open.

jgbailey

[gregshade]

Can you tell from this if recall was done?