Fridge goes out

[xrvr]

My fridge works fine on electric but, when using gas it goes out after thirty or so minutes. It goes fine until then and goes out with a code F. This is stationary use. Thanks, jim

[xrvr]

Norcold, jim

[TG Twinkie]

Are you low on propane?

[xrvr]

Double checked with gauge and propane tanks are near full. Fridge is out of a later model toy hauler installed by the po in my 1964 Avion. Works great on electric but only runs for a short time, sometimes as long as an hour, on lp. Maybe some kind of sensor when fridge turns off and then back on? Jim

[DKB_SATX]

If the usual stuff with cleaning the flue and burner don't help, get or make a water manometer and check the gas pressure at the fridge with 2 or 3 range burners lit. Your regulator may not be providing enough gas pressure.

[xrvr]

Thanks for the help, will let you know if I solve the problem. Jim

[RellikJM]

Take a look at this manual on PDF page 15 or print page 12 it shows diagnostics for the "F" code displayed. http://bryantrv.com/docs2/docs/ncoldnnewnseries.pdf

[Buttercup]

The F code is a flame failure to ignite. I can only think of 2 things that might cause that. One is a bad board/igniter circuit (most likely) and perhaps a dirty or cracked igniter probe and or burner. The igniter probe doubles as the flame detector.

I would remove the cover from around the burner so you can see it well and turn the fridge on. You should see and hear a strong spark between the burner and igniter probe. If you do not, then the igniter has probably gone bad or the igniter probe is cracked, causing the spark to short. My board has the igniter module integrated into it. Some fridges have a separate igniter/detector module. The day we were supposed to leave for the International Rally my fridge quit and the Check light came on - this is the same as your F indication. I checked it out and the spark was really weak, but would ignite. I blew the flame out a few times to make sure it was lighting properly and sure enough the spark was getting weaker and weaker until it would not spark at all. I replaced the board and it was back to full spark. I could actually hear the bad board arcing - making that click noise - when the igniter probe stopped working altogether. So I knew that the ignition transformer developed a short preventing the spark from being generated.

If the spark is strong and the flame lights but the spark continues to click after ignition then the probe and burner may have enough dirt on it to block detection of the flame. You may want to remove the probe and clean it with some steel wool or fine emery cloth or even a fine wire brush. Be gentle as you do not want to crack the ceramic insulator.