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Old 10-01-2022, 07:30 PM   #1
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Fridge Flashing LP, Flame Out Driving?

On a handful of recent occasions, after a longer tow, I get back to the AS to find the fridge flashing LP. I assume this means that it has flamed out and couldn't relight?

This is a vintage '07 27FB and the original 2-way Dometic fridge.

I've changed the LP regulator a couple years ago and pressure is as expected.

Is there something obvious I should check or clean? It otherwise works great on electric or propane.
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Old 10-01-2022, 07:51 PM   #2
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When's the last time you did a general maintenance on the burner and such? If the flame is weak it will have more trouble staying lit. Dirty chimney will also affect things negatively.
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Old 10-01-2022, 07:54 PM   #3
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When's the last time you did a general maintenance on the burner and such? If the flame is weak it will have more trouble staying lit. Dirty chimney will also affect things negatively.
In a word, never. Thanks for the pointer and I think I know what I need to do.

If anyone has any details, I'm open ears.
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Old 10-02-2022, 06:49 AM   #4
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I have a 2007 also and the fridge had a recall for additional shielding around the burner area and such. I think you'd need to check by serial number for your unit.

Does it run ok on gas when stationary?
Attached Files
File Type: pdf Dometic-Recall-Kit-2-Way_3311146.041.pdf (8.86 MB, 5 views)
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Old 10-02-2022, 10:02 AM   #5
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I have from time to time, experienced similar in my 2017. Similarly, I would light the burners to see if there was gas flowing, and there was, but it seemed pretty weak from "time to time". Mind you, the fridge seemed to work fine while driving, but when parked overnight, it would blink "from time to time" as it wasn't getting enough propane to stay lit.

Recently, you may have seen my post, I was complaining about my Honda2200 propane generator "coughing" on AS connector but not on the portable 20# bottle. Somehow, I had "pinched" the supply line under the A frame up front. You might check your lines....I also did use my compressor to blow out/clean around the outside pilot.
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Old 10-02-2022, 10:18 AM   #6
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You may have a bad or weak igniter. It may be lighting but not staying lit due to the sensor not getting adequate millivolt detection of flame. This is what I used to replace mine in our 2017 when it started having difficulty staying lit.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
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Old 10-02-2022, 01:18 PM   #7
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Reminds me...my "stove top" lighter not working now...

Quote:
Originally Posted by OrangeCrush View Post
You may have a bad or weak igniter. It may be lighting but not staying lit due to the sensor not getting adequate millivolt detection of flame. This is what I used to replace mine in our 2017 when it started having difficulty staying lit.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Not wanting to "change focus" or hijack this thread, but my stove top infighter does not "spark" any longer...is this what need to fix? Anyone know how to re-ignite (or replace) the igniter on the stove top?
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Old 10-02-2022, 01:59 PM   #8
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Not wanting to "change focus" or hijack this thread, but my stove top infighter does not "spark" any longer...is this what need to fix? Anyone know how to re-ignite (or replace) the igniter on the stove top?
That would be a different part. If yours is like mine with the rotate click igniter, that is Piezo. It does not have a low voltage sensor feedback. If none of the burners spark then you probably need to replace the Piezo igniter at the knob. This might help.
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Old 10-02-2022, 02:49 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by OrangeCrush View Post
That would be a different part. If yours is like mine with the rotate click igniter, that is Piezo. It does not have a low voltage sensor feedback. If none of the burners spark then you probably need to replace the Piezo igniter at the knob. This might help.
Thanks...I wasn't sure I was going to make it...fell asleep and wife walked out shaking her head! Not sure if that is the issue...mine "clicks" just fine...it just doesn't send the spark out anymore to the burners? I will take apart though, like he did, and see if I can figure it out. Thanks for the reply...if anyone else had this ignighter issue I mention above, "no spark";...but when I turn the knob, "she just keeps on a clicking!" (no spark) Please let me know...appreciate.
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Old 10-02-2022, 07:04 PM   #10
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Big No!

Quote:
Originally Posted by pteck View Post
On a handful of recent occasions, after a longer tow, I get back to the AS to find the fridge flashing LP. I assume this means that it has flamed out and couldn't relight?

This is a vintage '07 27FB and the original 2-way Dometic fridge.

I've changed the LP regulator a couple years ago and pressure is as expected.

Is there something obvious I should check or clean? It otherwise works great on electric or propane.
As I have seen In many videos, DO NOT TOW with LP gas on and refer, or anything else on! This how RV fires start!
Turn the gas off, pack the refer with ice and have it on for 24 hours before travel.
You will see MANY!!!!!!! Post saying itís ok to tow with gas on. As a CDL professional driver, I know itís not legal!!! Just donít!!!
As I have said, pack refer with ice packs, it helps when you get to your destination, to cool down the refer.
I usually have ice shortly after I get to my destination, when I do this!
Please DO NOT RISK A DEVASTATING fire that will destroy your trailer or RV!
You will not need to worry about check points or weight stations, because we are usually under weight!!!!!!!!!
Just donít! I usually fail on the cautious side, I would rather be cautious than need to file a insurance claim. Rick
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Old 10-02-2022, 07:25 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gypsydad View Post
Thanks...I wasn't sure I was going to make it...fell asleep and wife walked out shaking her head! Not sure if that is the issue...mine "clicks" just fine...it just doesn't send the spark out anymore to the burners? I will take apart though, like he did, and see if I can figure it out. Thanks for the reply...if anyone else had this ignighter issue I mention above, "no spark";...but when I turn the knob, "she just keeps on a clicking!" (no spark) Please let me know...appreciate.

Our stove ignitor stopped working after a few months. We us a long lighter to light it. Iíll check out that video to see if I can fix it, but the lighter works every time.

With respect to the traveling with the fridge on gas, we do. We did have issues in the past when we only opened one propane bottle. We keep them both open now. Not sure if that had anything to do with it or not.

And itís not illegal to travel with your Airstream tanks on in nearly all circumstances. We do stop and shut them off when going through tunnels (or any other area that explicitly forbids it), but outside of that, we leave the fridge on.
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Old 10-02-2022, 07:33 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rick n Mary View Post
As I have seen In many videos, DO NOT TOW with LP gas on and refer, or anything else on! This how RV fires start!
Turn the gas off, pack the refer with ice and have it on for 24 hours before travel.
You will see MANY!!!!!!! Post saying itís ok to tow with gas on. As a CDL professional driver, I know itís not legal!!! Just donít!!!
As I have said, pack refer with ice packs, it helps when you get to your destination, to cool down the refer.
I usually have ice shortly after I get to my destination, when I do this!
Please DO NOT RISK A DEVASTATING fire that will destroy your trailer or RV!
You will not need to worry about check points or weight stations, because we are usually under weight!!!!!!!!!
Just donít! I usually fail on the cautious side, I would rather be cautious than need to file a insurance claim. Rick
What code specifically deems this illegal please?
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Old 10-02-2022, 08:05 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rick n Mary View Post
As I have seen In many videos, DO NOT TOW with LP gas on and refer, or anything else on! This how RV fires start!
Turn the gas off, pack the refer with ice and have it on for 24 hours before travel.
You will see MANY!!!!!!! Post saying itís ok to tow with gas on. As a CDL professional driver, I know itís not legal!!! Just donít!!!
As I have said, pack refer with ice packs, it helps when you get to your destination, to cool down the refer.
I usually have ice shortly after I get to my destination, when I do this!
Please DO NOT RISK A DEVASTATING fire that will destroy your trailer or RV!
You will not need to worry about check points or weight stations, because we are usually under weight!!!!!!!!!
Just donít! I usually fail on the cautious side, I would rather be cautious than need to file a insurance claim. Rick
While there are specific tunnels, bridges, and a few stretches of highway in the country which prohibit open propane tanks while driving, I don't think it's accurate to make a blanket statement that it's illegal to drive with the propane fridge in operation. It is perfectly legal in most places in the US.

What specific law are you referring to that makes you say with great emphasis that it's illegal? I also have a CDL (have for decades) and don't remember prohibitions agains operating a propane fridge while driving in any of my training courses or manuals.
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Old 10-02-2022, 09:07 PM   #14
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Appreciate all the great input.

I checked whether my unit was in the recall window and doesn't look like it. It's model RM3762 which just falls outside of it.

The fridge lights just fine and is stable on LP when stationary and through most drives.
I've been driving faster in some recent trips when this occurs (75-80mph) on occasion and thought it was that.

Fortunately, I have a large lithium battery with generous solar and 18amp DC-DC, so I can run my inverter to power the fridge when on the road and still charge, so it's been a non-issue.

I'll give her a good cleaning and report back when I'm on a trip again.
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Old 10-02-2022, 10:54 PM   #15
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Try putting a piece of swamp cooler filter material in the refrigerator door on the outside of the trailer. This will help stop the wind blowing out the pilot light. My old 1978 trailer doesn't have an automatic relight, and I've had very few instances of the pilot light blinker going on when the pilot light goes out and the gas is shut off.
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Old 10-03-2022, 07:47 AM   #16
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I would recommend cleaning the orifice in the burner. The orifice is a tiny little hole, so just a spec of practically anything can partially (or even fully) block it.

This fellow offers a fairly good video of the cleaning procedure. There are lots of superficial differences between different models of these refrigerators, but where the real business occurs as far as LP funtion, there is remarkably little variation across models. The use of the white paper plate in the video is a good idea: The jet with the orifice is a tiny little thing, so if you drop it someplace else, you may never find it!

The video:

https://youtu.be/gSrVU7MRBUo

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Old 10-03-2022, 10:39 AM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jeff7176 View Post
Our stove ignitor stopped working after a few months. We us a long lighter to light it. Iíll check out that video to see if I can fix it, but the lighter works every time.

With respect to the traveling with the fridge on gas, we do. We did have issues in the past when we only opened one propane bottle. We keep them both open now. Not sure if that had anything to do with it or not.

And itís not illegal to travel with your Airstream tanks on in nearly all circumstances. We do stop and shut them off when going through tunnels (or any other area that explicitly forbids it), but outside of that, we leave the fridge on.
Yea, we are using the long lighter now too, but i plan to take the top off and see if I can figure out the issue with the igniter.

We have always traveled with our fridge on, except when we had a 3 way in our Casita, between AS 1 and AS 2....that was a sweet fridge for sure...wish I still had 3 way but not sure they were ever offered in an AS? Anyway, not sure I would like the all electric models in the new ones? Propane works great. We only travel with one tank on at a time and switch when it gets low. Use hot water to check levels or of course, I also know when it is out; no flame in the stove, or....see the blinking light above the fridge!
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Old 10-03-2022, 10:42 AM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by eubank View Post
I would recommend cleaning the orifice in the burner. The orifice is a tiny little hole, so just a spec of practically anything can partially (or even fully) block it.

This fellow offers a fairly good video of the cleaning procedure. There are lots of superficial differences between different models of these refrigerators, but where the real business occurs as far as LP funtion, there is remarkably little variation across models. The use of the white paper plate in the video is a good idea: The jet with the orifice is a tiny little thing, so if you drop it someplace else, you may never find it!

The video:

https://youtu.be/gSrVU7MRBUo

Lynn
I will look at the "Orfice" but, when the igniter works, it works for all 3; just the one with gas turned on, (control depressed) is ignited at a time. Would be surprised if all 3 of them had issues with the Orfice. It did stop working (the igniter) a while back, then started working again all this year with no issues. Think it is likely something els.
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Old 10-03-2022, 10:44 AM   #19
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If there's multiple propane oddities, it may be worthwhile to check or replace the regulator.

My gas stove was harder to light a couple years ago. And a couple other things were odd when using propane at ~7k elevation. Changed the propane regulator and everything propane related works so much better. These as I understand it have useful lives of 5-10 yrs, with some getting marginal even earlier.
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Old 10-03-2022, 11:20 AM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pteck View Post
If there's multiple propane oddities, it may be worthwhile to check or replace the regulator.

My gas stove was harder to light a couple years ago. And a couple other things were odd when using propane at ~7k elevation. Changed the propane regulator and everything propane related works so much better. These as I understand it have useful lives of 5-10 yrs, with some getting marginal even earlier.
Since you replaced the regulator a few years ago it might be worth testing/calibrating before replacing again since a new one may not be properly set as well. Below is a link I posted on making a cheap WC tester which worked well for me. I too was having fridge issues at elevation and turns out my regulator was a little off and my igniter/sensor had a crack in it. After calibration and replacing the igniter/sensor we are now good to 11K feet.
https://www.airforums.com/forums/f28...on-233345.html
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