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Old 05-18-2009, 10:09 AM   #21
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If you really plan on using the Airstream, I would get 'er done by finding a good RV fridge replacement. In addition, resale. IMHO, folks looking to buy, unless it's a restoration, don't want to deal with things like replacing an electric fridge.

Besides all this, when traveling for hours you most likely can't run a generator, so I'd just bite the bullet and get a new or refurb RV fridge (two or three way-- your call).

Looking further down the thread, I see some folks have suggested repair. This is possible and can be done. I have heard both good and bad and my dad had his unit repaired in the manner suggested. It has worked well now for 3 years since done. If you can do this and it will solve it, this would be a far better choice then to go with a simple electric fridge IMHO.
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Old 05-18-2009, 10:22 AM   #22
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The other thing for consideration is a modern home electric fridge will not have the adaquate insulation that the RV units do.
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Old 05-18-2009, 03:39 PM   #23
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Couldn't U put that silver insulation around an AC fridge?
Kani
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Originally Posted by reggiemon View Post
The other thing for consideration is a modern home electric fridge will not have the adaquate insulation that the RV units do.
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Old 05-18-2009, 04:49 PM   #24
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Help! I'm buying a 92 Classic excella 29' and the refrigerator is missing! Anybody know what size fits in the opening and are there any good used or refurbished ones available? Would really like to put a original type refrigerator back in!
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Old 05-18-2009, 05:21 PM   #25
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I wonder why my repair guy did not suggest a rebuilt cooling unit? How hard are these things to remove? Is there any kind of manual on how to correctly remove them?
He makes $50 clear for replacing a rebuilt cooling unit, vs about $350 for installing a new refrigerator.

Sad but true. Shortsighted too, because you won't trust his word again.

Paula
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Old 05-18-2009, 06:23 PM   #26
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I've always have a problem with the 3way fridge set up or the 2way propane/electric.The propane side can leak gas. If the boiler is not working,the electric won,t either. My solution may be considered bottom shelf but an all electric fridge is what I want if I plan to stay the season in one spot.Ice is always available,so I bring a cooler too.Life is simple,and sometimes it is a shear joy to pull a cold one from an ice chest.I believe someone mentioned money was an issue.Ice is free from home or about .79 a bag.Granted the Purist in me rejects the whole electric fridge idea and resale could be an issue.Weighing out the pros of simplicity and the cons of mechanical and gas problems,I stay pat with the electric fridge/ice chest combo.
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Old 05-18-2009, 07:43 PM   #27
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A footnote.A 1980 13' Scotty purchased before the Airstream fascination had a ice cooler on the wall which looked just like a fridge.I asked the seller"how does this fridge work?" The owner looked at me a bit annoyed and said "you put ice in it and when it melts it drips down that hose to the outside son".
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Old 05-18-2009, 07:45 PM   #28
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I've got an electric only unit in my coach. Has never been a problem yet. Mine is very quiet, only draws 1.8 amps @ 120 volts. Newer ones are around $375 for the size I have at Lowes.

Or like richie rich says go with an ice chest. I think I might do that if my fridge ever goes out. A $40 Coleman Extreme does one heck of a job keeping stuff cold for days. I keep one in the back of my pickup year round.
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Old 05-19-2009, 02:10 AM   #29
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How did you switch your old unit out and replace it with an just electric one ? like to do that with mine, since I camp out at hook ip sites only.
PREP POTATO SALAD , THEN ADD MAYO WHEN I GET THERE

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Old 05-19-2009, 07:42 AM   #30
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We are new at this but wanted to pass on that our little elctric frig did great on our recent 5 day trip. We plug it in a day before our trip and then put in freezer bags while traveling and everything is cold when we get to the destination. These bags came with fish we had sent from a trip to Alsaka aand we just refreeze them. We also keep a cooler with frozen food and change out the ice and things stayed frozen. A simple but econimical approach.
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Old 05-19-2009, 09:35 AM   #31
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I installed a $150 3.7 cubic-foot apartment-type compressor refrigerator in my 1967 International when I first bought it 20 years ago to replace the rotted-out original unit. It has operated very well.

When driving on the road, I power it from the tow-vehicle battery. To do this, I ran four 10-gauge wires (two positive, two negative, equivalent to 7 gauge) from the tow-vehicle batteries to the trailer battery. I have a connection plug between the tow vehicle and the trailer for this dedicated circuit, which is fused at the tow vehicle battery with a 30-amp dc fuse in each of the positive lines.

In the trailer, I have a $75 600 watt (1200 peak) inverter connected to the trailer battery. The refrigerator is plugged into this inverter, thus allowing it to run on 120v ac.

I installed an ammeter and an on/off switch in the tow vehicle to monitor and control the circuit while powering the refrigerator when towing. I have observed that the refrigerator takes about 12 amps when the compressor is running, and it cycles on and off like a normal refrigerator.

Even though I don't boondock, if I did I would get another battery or two to run the refrigerator with the inverter while parked, and recharge the battery(s) with my quite, little 1000-watt Honda generator during the day as needed.

The refrigerator is rated at 1.05 amps ac, which equates to about 10.5 amps dc.

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Old 05-19-2009, 12:02 PM   #32
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My fridge just went out on my Sovereign, and replacement is $1500!! What are the pros and cons for simply getting an electric one from Home Depot, I have a generator so boon docking is not a problem with electricity.
I don't know if it would be a consideration in your case, but having a regular fridge installed instead of an rv fridge might detract from the saleability of the trailer somewhat as most potential buyers would want an RV fridge and would therefor have to take into account cost and inconvenience of refitting the trailer were they to buy it.

Just a thought - I know that it would affect me that way.

Brian.
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Old 05-19-2009, 12:33 PM   #33
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I have a setup similar to Airstream67...I have described mine in detail in another thread...We were on the road for 3 weeks straight last year and never had regrets with our fridge/inverter set up...Cooling without pilot lights while on the road has advatages...Many new fridges draw only160 watts after start up and only run 20-30 percent of the time...it works! You might try searching for the old threads.Kevin
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Old 05-19-2009, 12:46 PM   #34
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danalee brought to mind my ultimate cost-free ,frost-free repair answer for a broken fridge. Don't fix it. Use ice packs or ice in a cooler IN the fridge! A modern fridge is an ice chest which uses freon or ammonia heated by propane to produce cold.Bypass the broken technology.Keep the broken unit right where it is.This may also answer the originality/resale quagmire.Sometimes its better to just pull the plug,quieter too.
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Old 05-20-2009, 09:35 PM   #35
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They are saying on resale (if you decided to sell) she won't bring you as much money with the electric fridge but I haven't read how much less it would be worth with an electric fridge. $500?...a $1000?....if that''s the case why bother spending the money. Times are hard right now...

We just installed an electric fridge in our AS today. Spent $319 on it and it is so quiet AND IT COOLS and it is so quiet!

The way I look at it, it is worth whatever someone is willing to pay for it. It may to way to high or low thats the way it is man....

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I don't know if it would be a consideration in your case, but having a regular fridge installed instead of an rv fridge might detract from the saleability of the trailer somewhat as most potential buyers would want an RV fridge and would therefor have to take into account cost and inconvenience of refitting the trailer were they to buy it.

Just a thought - I know that it would affect me that way.

Brian.
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Old 05-21-2009, 09:46 PM   #36
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Could this dilemma be solved with a Norcold AC/DC fridge/freezer? I use one and it draws less than 3 amps running on 12V. I am planning on installing a 7 CF model (
DE-0061/EV-0061) in my Argosy this Summer. This will run when driving, makes ice, runs when you are boondocking, and wrks on 110 hookups. My Dometic is getting tired and has never operated well when driving.
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Old 05-21-2009, 09:49 PM   #37
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Could this dilemma be solved with a Norcold AC/DC fridge/freezer? I use one and it draws less than 3 amps running on 12V. I am planning on installing a 7 CF model (
DE-0061/EV-0061) in my Argosy this Summer. This will run when driving, makes ice, runs when you are boondocking, and wrks on 110 hookups. My Dometic is getting tired and has never operated well when driving.

That is what we have on our 1954 Liner, but no cheaper than the gas/electric models.

Bill
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