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Old 01-23-2009, 08:42 AM   #21
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Originally Posted by 76sovereign View Post
Our fridge in the 76 Sovereign doesn't work... and one of the knobs at the bottom
Probably not useful info, but just so you know. All those little knobs inside connect to things on the back of the unit, so you can still work the controls by opening up the outside compartment and wiggling things! You might discover the source of the problem. It could be something simple, or maybe not...this is not what you want to see!!!
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Old 01-23-2009, 11:22 PM   #22
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This is good stuff, imagine what a 4k watt inverter would do with 2 agm batteries and a good solid charge from the t/v. I estimate going down the road you could also supply heat from a small 120v ceramic heater, and more!! Your choice for a fridge is excellent and should have dometic shaking with fear from simplicity and good design. Keep thinking all electric.
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Old 01-24-2009, 12:00 PM   #23
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Awesome! Worth a try FOR SURE~Thank you
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Originally Posted by DPeakMD View Post
Probably not useful info, but just so you know. All those little knobs inside connect to things on the back of the unit, so you can still work the controls by opening up the outside compartment and wiggling things! You might discover the source of the problem. It could be something simple, or maybe not...this is not what you want to see!!!
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Old 01-24-2009, 12:03 PM   #24
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Very helpful...thank you
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Originally Posted by brownsmtnlab View Post
The refrigerator we are using shows 1.2 amps at 120volts when running or defrosting....This is key! We found several small fridges that used this small amount of power, so try and use one of them. It will draw more than that for a short time when the compressor starts, so having an inverter rated at 800-1200 watts continuous is necessary. The inverter will allow more power to be drawn for short periods of time. I believe we are using #6 gauge wire direct from the battery terminals to the 12 volt side of the inverter, with a 75amp fuse. The 120 volt end of the inverter is run to a weatherproof box installed in the septic hose storage area with a plug that will accept the 30 amp shore power cord....So basically you plug the airstream into itself and the outlets in the airstream all become active....We make sure NOTHING else is using the 120 volt power but the fridge to avoid overloading the inverter, and this includes turning off the breaker for the air condtioner, because it has a transformer that is active all the time even when your not using it to cool the cabin. While traveling the charge from our F250 has kept the batteries at 100% while using the fridge this way...I hope that helps!
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