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rayandre · 06-13-2011, 09:26 PM

Ok, so when we bought our 70 Overlander the fridge seemed to work, although it didn't seem to get really cold. Then we put it in storage, then took it to the factory, then had a bunch of work done on and finally got it home. Plugged the fridge in and the heater chore(I think that's what it's called) got really hot to the touch but the fridge did not get cold. Left it plugged in for almost two days and no change. Unplugged it and lit the propane and let it run and it got nice and cold in about 5 hours. Assuming this is the original fridge-lloks like it! Anyone have an idea why a fridge that's probably 41 years old wouldn't work on electric but work nicely on propane?

Gosman · 06-25-2011, 05:58 PM

I have a 1972 argosy and have the fridge runing on propane and it gets hot to the touch on the back.
Now when I try to run the fridge on electric it does not work. Now I did check the out let the fridge is pluged in to and all is working.
Would it be the HEATING ELEMENT ?? AND WERE CAN ONE BE PURCHEASED ??? IF IT IS THAT ?. Also how is tit removed if need be????????? please advise.
THANK YOU ALL

Jim Lee · 06-30-2011, 09:14 AM

I got just the opposite problem, cools
on electricity but not on propane

mimiandrews · 06-30-2011, 09:25 AM

Try

rvmobile.com

Their website has great schematics and tutorials on how fridges work and how to troubleshoot them. Also sell parts and rebuild bad cooling units. They did fine work for us.

TG Twinkie · 06-30-2011, 07:27 PM

@ Gosman:
Do you have the electric side thermostat set to at least 5? If so and it's not getting cold it could be the heating element.
First: Get your meter out and make sure there is power to the refer.
Second: With the refer in the electric mode and thermostat (electric) turn all the way to max. If I remember correctly the white cable (held down by a double screw clamp) is the 120 volt AC power to the refer, you can check for power at these terminals.
Third: Check the voltage at the terminals that power the heating element. In the photo I posted, the wires in the rust colored sheath are the heating element wires. You can see they are terminated on stab connectors. If you have 120 volts AC on these terminals, then the chances are good that the element is bad.
You will need to remove the sheetmetal cover(s) on the lower right rear of the refer; also remove the insulation. The heating element is located in a well, follow the wires. It just slides up out of the well.
Caution: Should you decide to remove the element, make sure you have the power OFF.

TG Twinkie · 06-30-2011, 07:38 PM

@rayandre
Do you have these controls in your refer? If so check to make sure the electric thermostat is set to at least 5.

rayandre · 07-01-2011, 04:46 AM

Thanks everyone-I did meter the outlet and I know the unit is getting electricity so now I'll check the rest. We're talking about an original Dometic from 1970 that is still working on propane, thankfully. At least we can still use it!

When I think about all of that it's actually remarkable. Can't imagine having a 41 yr. old fridge in my kitchen that would still be working!

TG Twinkie · 07-01-2011, 04:45 PM

If it is the heating element it is an easy and cheap fix. I think I paid around $50.00 for a new element. I have the same refer in my '74 and it works great.

Gosman · 07-01-2011, 07:24 PM

If a heating element is needed were does one purchase one???????? I have check and were the cord from the Frig. is pluged in , and it has electric power their .
I have tried and have set the in side the Frig to max for electric and nothing , was set over night.
BUT REMIMBER THE FRIG. DOES WORK ON PROPANE!
Thanks George

TG Twinkie · 07-01-2011, 09:48 PM

@Gosman; Did you check to see if there is 120 volts on the 2 wires that go to the heating element? If there is power there, chances are good the heating element is bad. Just type "Heating Element" for Dometic refer into your search engine. There are a number of places that list the model number of the refer and parts available. I don't have my Argosy book handy at this moment but if needed I can look up the receipt for the one I bought.

Smokin Camel · 07-01-2011, 11:52 PM

You guys are making me nervous!

My fridge is pushing 40. It works well but at that age---?? one never knows. It seems the average life for most of these things settles in around 15 years.

I am thinking of replacing it regardless of condition in two years when I retire----going to Vegas by way of the Adirondack, the keys, Mardi-gras etc. I really do not need the fridge crapping out on the road.

In the mean time it still keeps the beer cold.

rayandre · 07-02-2011, 03:44 AM

so one last question about this heating element issue propane/electric: it is possible for a fridge to have a bad heating element even if it gets nice and cold on one energy source and not the other? or is this bad heating element issue related to the fridge working on propane and not electricity? In terms of replacement and parts-I think it'll be more of an issue of evaluating the condition of the whole unit. In our 41 year old fridge there are small cracks on the inner parts of the door, one spring hinge is shot on the freezer causing it's little door to stay ajar and the door seal is way past it's prime. Ultimately it'll come down to the bottom line as it always does with these issues...$ Another part of this issue for repair vs. replace has to do with our desire to keep things somewhat original while balancing the reality of really needing a little more fridge space. If we were to replace, would we go to the next size up, modify the counter and lose some of it to go with a taller more vertical unit?That's a really tough one since we barely have counter space to begin with and we're traveling with 4 people. I find it amazing that this decision was a no brainer in our kitchen but in this thing it's days of analysis

TG Twinkie · 07-04-2011, 06:27 AM

Yes, the gas and electric systems are independent of each other. If it is working on gas that tells me that the Ammonia side of the system is in good shape.
It isn't even necessary to have the refer powered to run it on gas. But it needs power to work electrically. It does take considerably longer for it to cool down on electric because the heating element is only 150 watts as I recall. But you should feel the floor of the freezer starting to get cold within a couple of hours if the element is working.
If it is the original element, I would say it's probably bad.
If you read the @Gosman thread above, I have explained how to troubleshoot it.
Good Luck

icebox500 · 07-15-2011, 08:29 AM

Once again, I come to this site for answers and find them in only moments. Going to check out my recently failed electric side now.

Thank you fellow travelers!

afordjones · 08-17-2011, 08:37 AM

you guys are amazing with your snappy replies!

How about 29 yr old Dometic working on Gas and Elec but not on 12v? I have established, with the help of Wasagachris, that I only have 7 pin plug so I can understand why there is no direct 12v feed to the fridge from the car, but why is it not working on the 12v from the A/S itself, independent of the car? Your wisdom will be greatly appreciated.
Thanks
Anthony (Newbie)

Jim in Pima · 08-29-2011, 02:35 PM

HI
If you have a 3 way fridge, there is a 12 volt heater that fits in alongside
the 110V heater. This heater pulls up to 25 AMPS and needs a really hefty
12 Volt source. Pick up a cheap multimeter at radio shack or Home Depot,
unplug the shore electric, and turn on the 12V control, in the back of the unit
check and see if you truly have that, your manual, or get one online will
show the proper terminals. Then disconnect one terminal, and check the resistance of the heater, should almost show a short, but if a high reading it is burned out. I am going through this withmy fridge, found a number of sites on line that have the parts. PPL motor home among others

airsovereign · 02-03-2017, 09:03 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by TG Twinkie

@ Gosman:
Do you have the electric side thermostat set to at least 5? If so and it's not getting cold it could be the heating element.
First: Get your meter out and make sure there is power to the refer.
Second: With the refer in the electric mode and thermostat (electric) turn all the way to max. If I remember correctly the white cable (held down by a double screw clamp) is the 120 volt AC power to the refer, you can check for power at these terminals.
Third: Check the voltage at the terminals that power the heating element. In the photo I posted, the wires in the rust colored sheath are the heating element wires. You can see they are terminated on stab connectors. If you have 120 volts AC on these terminals, then the chances are good that the element is bad.
You will need to remove the sheetmetal cover(s) on the lower right rear of the refer; also remove the insulation. The heating element is located in a well, follow the wires. It just slides up out of the well.
Caution: Should you decide to remove the element, make sure you have the power OFF.

I know this is an old thread but I can't seem to find this answer ANYWHERE. you mention if the voltage is good at the terminals for the heating element that the element itself would be bad. What if there is no voltage at the terminals of the heating element? I removed it and it measures in the right ohm range (upper 40s) and has continuity. But after testing the voltage where the power cable hits the combiner box and it reads 114, why would I get a zero reading where the heating element leads connect to the combiner box? Any help would be greatly appreciated!

TG Twinkie · 02-03-2017, 09:18 AM

Not sure what you mean by combiner box.
Have you selected the electric mode?
Have you set the thermostat to the highest setting?
Do you have power to the thermostat?
Can you post a pic of the back of the refer showing the terminals etc?

airsovereign · 02-03-2017, 09:58 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by TG Twinkie

Not sure what you mean by combiner box.
Have you selected the electric mode?
Have you set the thermostat to the highest setting?
Do you have power to the thermostat?
Can you post a pic of the back of the refer showing the terminals etc?

Thanks for replying! Yes I have it set to electric with the thermostat cranked to 7. The combiner box is where all the wires combine, as shown in the photo. I tested the voltage at the thermostat and got .4 volts. I tested the voltage at the switch and got 118v. Does everything look wired correctly? If the thermostat is bad would that be why there is no voltage at the heating element lead connections?

TG Twinkie · 02-03-2017, 10:11 AM

First check for voltage at terminals 1 and 2. If OK then
Terminals 1 and 4 then
Terminals 1 and 3. Let us know the results.
You might try disconnecting the terminals and cleaning them. Be sure the power is off.