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Airstream01 · 08-15-2010, 01:12 PM

Hello everybody, I'm having issues with my fridge, and of course it is packed with food. I'm getting the flashing E1 error code. It happens on both AC power and LP mode, though it runs and cools for almost 12hrs on the LP mode before it throws the code. Then once it throws the code in LP I must use the AC power mode for at least a couple hours before going back to LP or it will almost immediately throw the code in LP. AC power mode it will run about 30 minutes before throwing the code and I have to shut it off and back on to get another 30 minutes. Needless to say, this isnt ideal

The manual states the E1 code is a hardware fault. I am still under warranty, but it is a huge pain in the butt to take it in, so if I can fix it for less than $100 or so, its worth it to me to just do it myself.

Has anyone else in a late model trailer had this issue? What was the fix?

This is a Dometic RM3762 as found in a 2008 Safari SE 25FB.

Regards,
Brian

Chief · 08-15-2010, 04:23 PM

We have exactly the same trailer, and I experienced a similar problem. But, I only saw the flashing code on LP....it was a result of the pilot light being blown out by passing trucks, and then trying to relight three times before failing. I solved it by cutting a home air conditioner filter to fit the mechanical door....the pilot light stays on and I have not experienced any cooling problems with the filter in place.

Not sure what is causing the fault code when you're connected to AC.....think I would make a call to Dometic.

Hope you resolve it soon. My last problem was due to "operator error." The fridge was packed, really packed, for the start of our recently completed 30 day adventure. I wanted to start with two full tanks of propane, so I filled one that wasn't completely empty. The fridge was on AC for a couple of days while we finished packing, and should have automatically changed over to LP when we left home. The problem was, I had not turned on the valve for the tank I had filled.....fridge worked until the gas ran out of the lines, and that was it. Our first stop was about five hours later, and when I looked at the fridge's temp indicator......there was my old friend....the blinking "E1." As soon as I checked the tanks, I realized what I had done.....but, by then the inside fridge temp was over 50 degrees, and it takes a long time to cool down when it's packed too tightly for air circulation. However, my refrigerator cooling concerns were soon replaced with body cooling concerns as I dealt with my Goodyear Marathon belt separation in the South Carolina afternoon heat....but, that's another story.

Ron

Airstream01 · 08-15-2010, 06:59 PM

Thanks Chief. I'm stationary, so I don't think the pilot light is blowing out. Its been working all day, but its been on LP. As soon as I switch it back to AC I'm sure it will throw the code after a half hour or so.

I called Airstream, and they said it would be covered under Dometic's warranty, and that I could take it to any Dometic dealer. I'm not too far from Toscano RV which is an authorized Airstream service center. I'll probably take it there if I can't figure this out.

Airstream01 · 08-17-2010, 05:28 PM

Beuller......Beuller.....

I KNOW there has to be someone who has experienced similar issues. Throw me a bone here.

Airstream01 · 09-09-2010, 10:58 AM

bueller......bueller......

Mike Leary · 09-09-2010, 01:18 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Airstream01

I'm not too far from Toscano RV which is an authorized Airstream service center. I'll probably take it there if I can't figure this out.

They have a excellent reputation from AS people we've met down there.

sdlaw · 10-25-2010, 08:43 PM

Dometics have a controler board usually located in the rear lower left side. This board is prone to this failure. It should only take about 30 minutes to change it and fix the problem

donschweika · 02-12-2011, 08:06 AM

Have you solved your E1 code problem? I have the exact problem and have discovered that if I disconnect the converter, the refrigerator works fine. It also works on the coldest setting(5), because it does not recycle on and off I think. I have had all of the parts replaced that can be replaced with no success. I have had 3 different repairmen look at it ($345 for labor). NO SUCCESS. I would really like a phone call or a phone number that I can call.

Don Schweikarth
8124868028
donschweika@yahoo.com

sdlaw · 02-13-2011, 06:26 AM

If you are getting the code only during the time the converter is running the most likely problem is with the voltage output of the converter. Too high or too low. A quick check with a mulit meter at the 12 volt terminals should confirm this. Also it could be a defective diode on the converter causing a "dirty" signal. These boards are very sensetive to the supply voltage

donschweika · 02-13-2011, 04:12 PM

Changed out the conveter, but did not solve the problem. After about 20 hours with a clean ground, the e1 reappeared. Today I have wired both hot and ground directly to the battery. 6 hours and no problems. We will see what happens tomorrow.

lewster · 02-13-2011, 04:40 PM

Use a quality multimeter on the VAC setting and put the probes on the 12VDC terminal block that feeds the refer. If you are getting ANY VAC you have a problem. Also, you can check the VDC for 'ripple', which the control boards in modern RV components do not appreciate.

What type of converter are you using? I might suggest an IOTA DLS-IQ4 unit. They seem to have a very clean output and I have yet to see any electrical problems from them.

donschweika · 02-14-2011, 04:50 AM

I am a new member and still not a trusted to contact individuals. Would someone contact Airstream1 for me and have him contact me asap. I really need to know how he solved his e1 code problem.

Thanks
Don
Donschweika@yahoo.com

lewster · 02-14-2011, 07:25 AM

Per Dometic:

The E1 code is a hardware fault usually related to the LP valve or LP delivery system.

Check the operation of your gas valve at the back of the fridge, be sure that your ground connections are clean and secure and check the LP pressure at the fridge. It should be 11" water gauge with 50% of the LP appliances operating.

donschweika · 02-14-2011, 02:01 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by lewster

Per Dometic:

The E1 code is a hardware fault usually related to the LP valve or LP delivery system.

Check the operation of your gas valve at the back of the fridge, be sure that your ground connections are clean and secure and check the LP pressure at the fridge. It should be 11" water gauge with 50% of the LP appliances operating.

If it were that easy, it would be fixed. Evidently an E1 code is also caused by something else. It happens in both AC& LP mode. I have found at least 3 others with the same problem. You can't imagine how frustrating it is. Currently I'm working directly off the post for AC & straight from the battery for DC. HAs worked for about 3 hours now. The converter has been unplugged in case it is the problem.

rohoward · 11-12-2012, 11:35 AM

After encountering identical E1 error codes on my Dometic Fridge (Model RM 3762), I contacted my RV dealer who recognized the issue right away. In my case the E1 error code would appear in both LP and AC modes. The fridge would in fact work normally for about 6 hours or until it reached the set operating temperature and shut off as normal. The problem was that it would not re-start and I would constantly have to manually shut it off and re-start it. This procedure had to be repeated over and over every time the fridge reached operating temp.
My dealer had stated that the issue was with the temperature probe or better known as the "Thermistor". To confirm this, he had me push the wire of the thermister through to the back of the fridge and leave it exposed to the outside air temperature. In doing so, the fridge worked normally but would not shut off as expected and would natually freeze everything over time. However, this confirmed that the E1 error code was an thermister (temp probe) issue. The thermister is located inside the fridge and is attached to the "fins" and the back wall of the fridge. It is wired to the electronic control panel in the back of the fridge. I have replaced the thermister (under warrenty) and have had no issues since. (the thermister I removed was subsequently tested at the dealer and confirmed to be faulty. Hope this helps everyone who I see has had this issue.
Ron

KJRitchie · 05-02-2013, 05:38 AM

Ron, what position on the fins of your fridge is the thermistor located. Have you measured the internal temperature to see how well it is performing? Have you had any issues with maintaining temperature while traveling on LP?

I've been having issues with my Parallax 7300 55 amp converter on my 2008 Classic 25fb and found it was not outputing enough voltage to the batteries. The batteries would drain faster than they could be charged. In diagnosing the issue on the last camping trip I disconnected the battery from the converter to see how the converter could supply DC to the trailer. I put the fridge on gas. A few hours later I notice the E1 code and the temperature had risen a few degrees. The Dometic manual stated hardware fault with the gas and I figured there was not enough power being generated from converter DC side to power the electronic ignition. Turned the fridge to Off, waited about a minute, turned it On and verified it was on AC. Code never reappeared. I'm getting Progressive Dynamic 7300 replacement kit from Bestconverters.

Kelvin

perryg114 · 05-02-2013, 06:14 AM

I am wondering why Dometic went to electronic boards that are prone to failure? They also require 12V.

Perry

rohoward · 05-16-2013, 08:28 AM

Kelvin.....My thermistor is located on the far right fin. I have also slid it up to the top of the fin. I have not check the inside temp to see how it is performing. I also do not have issues with my batteries or convertor. My trailer is also parked on a site and does not get moved. I have also heard fro others regarding issues with the electronic board, however I don't believe that was my issue.

Ron

sunnygirl · 05-16-2013, 08:43 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by rohoward

Kelvin.....My thermistor is located on the far right fin. I have also slid it up to the top of the fin. I have not check the inside temp to see how it is performing. I also do not have issues with my batteries or convertor. My trailer is also parked on a site and does not get moved. I have also heard fro others regarding issues with the electronic board, however I don't believe that was my issue.

Ron

Ron,

Would you happen to have a picture of the thermistor in your Dometic RM3762. I have the same model and have nothing attached to the fins. I do have something attached to one of the shelves on the far right side. We bought our trailer used and maybe the PO moved the thermistor and it should be put back on the fin. I have checked the Dometic manual and website for this model but found no reference to the thermistor.

Thanks for your help.

Susan

KJRitchie · 01-19-2019, 05:36 PM

I'm getting the E1 code while on shore power. I'm not sure its cooling while on E1 when on shore power. I'll have to check the temperature of the fridge periodically and monitor it while E1 is flashing the next time. If I turn the fridge on/off the E1 clears. If I switch to LP manually it lights right away. Switch back to Auto and it resets for shore power and cooling is normal. I don't think it occurs when running on LP when towing. When I reach the campsite and plug in it switches to electric and seems to cool normally. A couple of hours later noticed it's flashing E1. Reset the fridge and it went through the night and sometime between 4pm and 6pm the E1 occurred while we were out running errands.

I guess I'll try replacing the thermistor first according to the above post.

Kelvin