Dometic RM 8501 Issues

[Cannonball]

We have a 2014 Sport 22FB with a 3-way Dometic RM 8501 fridge (made in Germany). For a while, the propane power has worked erratically, but the battery & electric work fine. Last trip out was three weeks ago.

I took the trailer in for a shower drain repair and asked the repair shop to check the fridge as well, and clean the propane orifice. This is not a dealer, but an independent repair shop. Next thing I know I am getting a call from them that the fridge will not power on at all, “and they think it is the control board”.

A call to Dometic yields nothing: they say the fridge is “obsolete”, they no longer support this model, and the board is not available.

A call to Dinosaur for a control board yields the same answer, no control board available.

I am somewhat suspicious of the info I am getting from this shop, so told them to do nothing more on the fridge, my intention being to seek a second opinion. I mean the fridge was working 3 weeks ago.

Now the Questions:

1. If it is the control board, does anyone have a “super secret” source for the board? My internet search has turned up zilch. The part no. Is 241279600.

2. If the fridge is dead, any recs on a replacement that will fit the existing cabinet? The cutout measures 20.75” wide X 32.75” in height.

I am really disappointed in Dometic and their lack of support on this product.

ThNks in advance.

[ITSNO60]

The part number you listed seems to be for an electrical connector, I found it here: https://spares4dometic.co.uk/dometic...ic-t-241279600 in Europe but unclear if it is an actual control board. For the price it seems unlikely. There is an electronic kit at PDV RV https://pdxrvwholesale.com/products/...kit-2890189422 for big money but I don't see a circuit board in the picture, pretty sure your RM 8501 has a circuit board in the eyebrow? You should have both a circuit board in the eyebrow and a control unit on the back of the fridge. Maybe a call to PDX tomorrow to ask some questions?

Meanwhile here is a pdf of the service manual that covers your model, pay no mind to the 240 volt references, those are European and the 120 volt USA models are identical.

(edited at 9:52 MST to add correct service manual)

[TomPiper]

Originally Posted by Cannonball

We have a 2014 Sport 22FB with a 3-way Dometic RM 8501 fridge (made in Germany). For a while, the propane power has worked erratically, but the battery & electric work fine. Last trip out was three weeks ago.

I took the trailer in for a shower drain repair and asked the repair shop to check the fridge as well, and clean the propane orifice. This is not a dealer, but an independent repair shop. Next thing I know I am getting a call from them that the fridge will not power on at all, “and they think it is the control board”.

A call to Dometic yields nothing: they say the fridge is “obsolete”, they no longer support this model, and the board is not available.

A call to Dinosaur for a control board yields the same answer, no control board available.

I am somewhat suspicious of the info I am getting from this shop, so told them to do nothing more on the fridge, my intention being to seek a second opinion. I mean the fridge was working 3 weeks ago.

Now the Questions:

1. If it is the control board, does anyone have a “super secret” source for the board? My internet search has turned up zilch. The part no. Is 241279600.

2. If the fridge is dead, any recs on a replacement that will fit the existing cabinet? The cutout measures 20.75” wide X 32.75” in height.

I am really disappointed in Dometic and their lack of support on this product.

ThNks in advance.

Hi,
I have the same issue on my 8501 exactly. Won't work on LP gas and we've been around the block on that issue 900 times, including looking for that eyebrow board, replacing the gas valve (unnecessarily), the burner control unit, etc., so unless i am content to just go to shore power campgrounds (I'm not) it's time to replace. But with what? Not only was it a poorly supported item but it seems to be a shape that is pretty unique too. I guess you can buy another Dometic 8505 that fits. But it's already a special order and likely to be a dinosaur soon as well.

Just wondering if you landed on any other nifty solutions? I have heard there is a Norcold that might fit, but I'm damned if I can find it on their site.

Thanks,
Tom

[jmickow]

@ TomPiper, I replied to your other separate post message as well, but will add a few more comments here regarding what I went through.

After struggling with years and trying everything with my Dometic propane refrigerator and trying every test and remedy I could think of, including removing it an "burping" it as some suggested, I finally decided I needed to find a way to get reliable refrigeration. I strongly considered a cooling system replacement, but was concerned because i was also having electrical issues and couldn't stomach the idea of replacing all the electronics plus the cooling unit,
potentially costing more than a replacement refrigerator. I also looked into a replacement 3-way refrigerator, but was concerned it would underperform as well based ont he variety of experiences that people have, even with new units.

At the end of the day I decided that the proven reliability and low power draw of the Danfoss-powered compressor refrigerators was just too compelling to ignore. I also already had the solar and battery capacity needed to make this work, so did not need any further improvements that would have increased the cost.

I chose the Nova Kool R4500 as the best fit for my Sport 22, and am very happy with the results. I paid something like !300 for the refrigerator but had to wait like 5 months during the pandemic times. The dimensions are close enough that it could be pretty easy to install by removing the internal partition and adding a filler panel above or below the refrigerator, but I choose to modify the cabinet to add a silverware drawer which turned into a fairly significant project.

I included the "before" and "after" photos of the cabinet to show the modifications that were made to achieve a 'factory fit". I wanted the refrigerator frame flange to be flush with the cabinet face, so ended up cutting off the double piece on the right and using that to frame the top of the refrigerator opening, creating the space for a drawer. I then added new recessed "stops" around the refrigerator recess (like a door frame) to create the recess for the refrigerator frame. Then I built a drawer for opening left at the top. Unfortunately I don't have photos of the completed installation.

Good luck with making your decision, and let me know if you need any more information.