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Old 08-14-2020, 07:47 AM   #1
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Dometic refrigerator will not turn on

We had the retrofit done for our 2000Dometic 2- way refrigerator. It has been two weeks we have been on the road camping, and now after a full day on the road our refrigerator will not turn on at all. We are not receiving any power, to the control panel that changes it from either electric to gas. We took off the side panel and looked at the fuses are both good. We talked to a guy who fixed our refrigerator in Salt Lake City, and he said That sometimes a huge gust of wind will cause the pilot light to act like its burning up the sensor and it will turn the whole thing off. We are two days from home, and have all of our food in ice chest with ice, and it is so frustrating not having the refrigerator work.. Somebody thought that perhaps the refrigerator needed to be replaced. Do you think that 20 years is all that a Dometic refrigerator can go? Has anyone else had this problem?
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Old 08-14-2020, 10:08 AM   #2
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Exact model number of fridge. Allows folks to look at wiring diagram if its online somewhere.

Retrofit? Specific details, what was done to it?

Fuse looks good? Many have said same, testing with meter is better.

Any other electric gremlins?

Gary
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Old 08-15-2020, 11:24 AM   #3
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We checked the fuses theyre both good ..,we tested with an electrical tester, the plug is getting electricity. They think that flame thing that they did in the retrofit, blew out , so the refrigerator thought it was burning up, so it turned off all power to itself....Were at a loss weve got a few more days on the road were just getting tired of the ice situation melting everywhere in 90 heat
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Old 08-15-2020, 11:26 AM   #4
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We checked the fuses theyre both good ..,we tested with an electrical tester, the plug is getting electricity. They think that flame thing that they did in the retrofit, blew out , so the refrigerator thought it was burning up, so it turned off all power to itself....Its the sensor that needs to be replsced🙀weve got a few more days on the road were just getting tired of the ice situation melting everywhere in 90 heat
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Old 08-15-2020, 11:29 AM   #5
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I'm assuming it's working when you are plugged into a site with electric? If so then my first guess would be the thermocouple may have gone bad or is not in position to sense to flame. The thermocouple is the safety that shuts off the gas if the flame goes out. Those are usually easier replacements or can be done by most RV repair facilities since you should be able to get to it via the outside access door to the refrigerator.

My 2001 Safari refrigerator had a known defect where the flame would blow out when I was on the road. Airstream directed dealers to create a baffle that would protect the burner from wind gusts coming through the vents in the door. Some folks even used very thin furnace filters mounted to the door to cut down on the problem.

Some gas appliances also have thermal fuses that sense a flame that is not contained within the burner area and will melt thus not allowing the main gas valve to open up. I think the water heater uses these.



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Old 08-15-2020, 05:03 PM   #6
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Dometic problem

The fridge wont turn on at all...No power to the control board that allows it to go to either a C or gas. We had a new thermal coupler put it in so we know its not that the whole thing is not getting any power. Were pretty sure its a sensor. Does anyone know how much that cost to replace?
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Old 08-15-2020, 05:04 PM   #7
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Nope...The control board will not turn on either AC or gas
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Old 08-15-2020, 06:18 PM   #8
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Ok. There could be one of potentially 2 safety provisions in your trailer. One may be a thermal sensor that protects against overheat and has a push button reset. The other is a thermal switch that melts if the flame hits an area in the chimney of the burner. That melted switch says there is sensing for flame that is too high. Unfortunately in that situation you really have to have someone look at the operation of the burner to verify that the flame is at the proper height. Here's a post from a refrigerator thread I copied.

I expect by now you found the reset button on the temperature overload on the side of the LP burner assembly.
I had the same problem, refrigerator not working, no lights on the control panel and no interior light.
I found they added a second Thermal Fuse inside a section of black wiring insulator tucked behind the LP Burner. When this overheats it opens the circuit and needs to be replaced. To fix temporary you can cut the Fuse out and wire nut the wires together. The re-settable over temp switch will still protect the burner in an over temp situation.


I've seen these thermal fuses open up on water heaters. It usually happens because the burner has spider webbing in it and unburned gas backs into the vent tube and then ignites causing the flame to travel back through the vent.

Bottom line the advice is to have a RV servicer inspect your fridge and check if the safety has been triggered. You need to find the cause of the safety being triggered. It's just not just a matter of replacing the safety fuse however. The repair person needs to understand why it triggered because after fixing the safety it could trigger again.

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Old 08-20-2020, 06:05 AM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Maggiefoss View Post
The fridge won’t turn on at all...No power to the control board that allows it to go to either a C or gas. We had a new thermal coupler put it in so we know it’s not that the whole thing is not getting any power. We’re pretty sure it’s a sensor. Does anyone know how much that cost to replace?

Most of the time, those temperature sensors are a few dollars. In many cases they are accessible enough to change out yourself too.

As some have said, those resistance values are easy to check with a 10 dollar volt meter.

It may be worth your time to have a service center evaluate it.

Frankly, if my fridge lasts 20 years, I will be satisfied with that.
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Old 08-23-2020, 01:43 PM   #10
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refrigerator now running!

Our friend, Brad, who knows everything about anything came and found out it was a thermal fuse. He was able to replace it and its running again!!!

thanks everyone for your help and input!
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Old 09-06-2020, 05:43 PM   #11
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Frig not getting power ?

Maggiefoss-
As it happens,figuring out why my frig isnt getting power...is this weeks project !! I checked the two fuses on the board,they checked out ok. Im curious what the thermal fuse looks like ? Any help will be very much appreciated.
Thanks, Mark
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Old 09-07-2020, 12:08 PM   #12
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Dometic fridge

If you’ve had the retrofit done, the thermal fuse looks like a black wire that goes in, and then comes back out. The thermal part is right next to the chimney.. It isn’t an actual fuse, it’s actually something that melts when it gets too hot. That’s what we had to replace. Now the fridge works again. The chimney to the right of your picture should have a black (I think) wire that goes behind the chimney, then comes bac out the same way. The thermal fuse is at the halfway point which should be directly adjacent to the chimney housing. That’s what burnt out on ours. If you’ve had the recall work done, then it should be there. Good luck.
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