Dometic Refrigerator

[CarlGeo]

My 1992 Dometic refrigerator, 3 way, is not operating on gas. It will light and burn for approx. 3 minutes, and go off.
The burner is clean and the flame strong and blue. The thermocouple is clean. I have also replaced the computer board with a Dinasour unit, and the problem persists.
While the unit is burning, the ingnition continues to spark at regular intervals, about every second, and continues until the flame goes out. But when the flame goes out, it will not try to ignite.
Does anyone have a clue what the problem is and how is it solved?

[Lumatic]

The good news is if it works on electric the major fridge cooling components are ok. I know more about the old ones than new but the problem should be limited to the fuel supply components: thermocouple and safety valve. The output of the thermocouple should be about 27 millivolts. There is a magnetic switch in the safety valve which can also go bad. I assume you checked the obvious, that the regulator on the tanks is OK.

[Robfike]

We have started having a problem with ours also. It is a '97 3-way in our '86 345 Classic MH. My fridge will light with one click of the ignition, and has a perfect blue flame. After about 2 to 5 minutes, it shuts down and turns on the "check" light. It does not try any more ignition. My thermocouple puts out between 35 and 30 mv. The limit switch installed with the recall is working properly.
I have just started having this problem since the recall mod.
It works fine on 120 and 12 volts.
Rob

[nickcrowhurst]

The thermistor (used as the sender unit to monitor temperature) can be checked as described in this post of mine from early 2003:
http://www.airforums.com/forums/f425...tors-3110.html
Nick.

[Robfike]

Update- I have pulled and reinstalled all the connectors on the board. As of this time the fridge is working fine. I have turned it on and off several times, and now it has been working for about 4 hours.
Rob

[Robfike]

My hopes have been dashed. The fridge is still screwing up. Time to take it to the shop.
Rob

[Robfike]

Streamers,
I took our coach to Fun Time Campers in Indy. They are the ones that did the recall on my fridge. They checked the unit and at first it would not screw up. (of course) Then it started the kicking out on gas. They determined that there was something loose in the board. Anytime you disturbed the board or pushed on it the unit would kick out. They did not have a 3-way board in stock, but I found one at the new Camping World on the south side of Indy. The Fun time guys just charged me a $75.00 diagnostic charge. OK with me.
I installed the new board assembly Friday afternoon. The part had been superseeded about 4 times and is now different than the old one.
The fridge worked perfectly all weekend. On gas, 12v, and 110v.
Finally, Rob

[richinny]

cool! btw, do you mind sharing the model numbers and prices?

[Robfike]

I don't have the numbers with me, but my fridge is a Dometic 3-way made in 1997. The new Dometic board was about $149.00 at Camping World with my Presidents club discount.
Rob

[richinny]

thanks, i was wondering that if i had that problem, how much a guess would cost vs. a service call.

[lewster]

Originally Posted by Robfike

Streamers,
I took our coach to Fun Time Campers in Indy. They are the ones that did the recall on my fridge. They checked the unit and at first it would not screw up. (of course) Then it started the kicking out on gas. They determined that there was something loose in the board. Anytime you disturbed the board or pushed on it the unit would kick out. They did not have a 3-way board in stock, but I found one at the new Camping World on the south side of Indy. The Fun time guys just charged me a $75.00 diagnostic charge. OK with me.
I installed the new board assembly Friday afternoon. The part had been superseeded about 4 times and is now different than the old one.
The fridge worked perfectly all weekend. On gas, 12v, and 110v.
Finally, Rob

Unfortunately, most OEM control and igniter boards used in refers, furnaces, water heaters and such are NOT made to the highest standards. The prime reason for failure that I've found is the fact that the components on the board are not soldered on both sides....just the back.

This accelerates the breakage of the connections of the individual components soldered to the board, causing the board to fail prematurely. The best remedy for this condition is to buy your replacement boards from Dinosaur Electronics. They are made to military spec and are soldered thru, are much more durable and carry a 3 year warranty. And no, I have nothing to do with the company other than I use their boards as replacements every where one is applicable.