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Old 02-27-2018, 09:43 AM   #1
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Dometic Refrig Door Heater Cutoff Switch Install?

We have a ‘17 FC. I am thinking of adding a cutoff switch for the door heater. Based on the diagram on the unit, it looks like it is labeled T? If so, how do I find P5, is it the light blue cable in my photo?
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Old 02-27-2018, 10:56 AM   #2
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Fridge switch?

Interesting but I don't believe that your fridge has a door heater but you do have a fridge light that does stay on to regulate the unit to run when outside temp is cooler to force the fridge to cycle ( introduces heat) .
It appears "T" is the heater element to run the fridge on 120volt .
Question , why do you want to introduce a cut off switch ?
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Old 02-27-2018, 11:48 AM   #3
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Door Heater Cutoff Power Saving

By placing a disconnect switch for the door strip heater saves 1/2 the power (ah) of the fridge operation. VERY desirable when boondocking as this is on 24/7.

This added switch (usually put right at the inner fridge light interrupting one thicker of the 2 black wires) Saves approx 9ah a day. This equates to all the usable power 12volt 80ah bat over 4days use.

We did and happy to save stupid power draw.

An excellent mod to do !
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Old 02-27-2018, 12:01 PM   #4
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It is item T. On my fridge it is wired from the light that comes on when the door is opened. You can't get to it from the back. If you cut the wire in the back it will also kill the light.

Vantair has it right. Put a switch at the light. One light terminal has two wires on it. One is 12V, the other goes to the heater. You may have to experiment to find out which wire it is. Disconnect them both from the light and the one with 12V on it goes back on. Wire a switch between that one and the wire that goes to the heater.

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Old 02-27-2018, 12:06 PM   #5
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Thanks everyone for the great info. I want to do it for the reasons stated here by the others, save some amp hours during boondocking, as it is probably unnecessary in cold climates or hot/dry ones.

Any suggestions for a particular switch type/photo of an install?

Joe


Quote:
Originally Posted by Vantair View Post
By placing a disconnect switch for the door strip heater saves 1/2 the power (ah) of the fridge operation. VERY desirable when boondocking as this is on 24/7.

This added switch (usually put right at the inner fridge light interrupting one thicker of the 2 black wires) Saves approx 9ah a day. This equates to all the usable power 12volt 80ah bat over 4days use.

We did and happy to save stupid power draw.

An excellent mod to do !
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Old 02-27-2018, 02:00 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JoeHTP View Post
Thanks everyone for the great info. I want to do it for the reasons stated here by the others, save some amp hours during boondocking, as it is probably unnecessary in cold climates or hot/dry ones.

Any suggestions for a particular switch type/photo of an install?

Joe
Hi Joe,

Yes, see below link. 4 pieces for $5.54.

(Sorry, have full pics and install info but just now out of Airforum pic space). Mount switch internally facing fridge door on the inner light switch assembly on the downward angled plastic face down low. Careful to allow clearance of newly added switch terminals and nearby fridge light terminals. Told the “larger black wire” at the fridge light should be the one to the door heat strip. Was the case with ours.

Uxcell a15062200ux0651 2 Position 6Pins DPDT ON-OFF Micro Mini Toggle Switch, AC 6 Amp, 125V, 4 Piece https://www.amazon.com/dp/B015DLW0EE?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf
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Old 02-27-2018, 03:37 PM   #7
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Thank you!
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Old 03-01-2018, 09:27 AM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Vantair View Post
Hi Joe,

Yes, see below link. 4 pieces for $5.54.

(Sorry, have full pics and install info but just now out of Airforum pic space). Mount switch internally facing fridge door on the inner light switch assembly on the downward angled plastic face down low. Careful to allow clearance of newly added switch terminals and nearby fridge light terminals. Told the “larger black wire” at the fridge light should be the one to the door heat strip. Was the case with ours.

Uxcell a15062200ux0651 2 Position 6Pins DPDT ON-OFF Micro Mini Toggle Switch, AC 6 Amp, 125V, 4 Piece https://www.amazon.com/dp/B015DLW0EE?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf


Vantair,
Thanks for the information, but why is a DTDP (Double Throw Double Pole) switch needed? It sounds and looks like the switch only needs to be installed in the heater line so a STSP switch ought to work, and be smaller.
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Old 03-01-2018, 11:11 PM   #9
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Door heater switch

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Originally Posted by BillfromWI View Post
Vantair,
Thanks for the information, but why is a DTDP (Double Throw Double Pole) switch needed? It sounds and looks like the switch only needs to be installed in the heater line so a STSP switch ought to work, and be smaller.
BillfronWI,
True. Single throw single pole SPST is all you really need but for approx same size/almost same price this unit is “actually” a similar 1on/2off switch.
Also this double pole single throw DPST operates same method but doubling connections across now both terminals so doubles or more the current and power rating thus long term reliability.
Why not at same time of price/install effort I say.�� Making our Airstreams better. !
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Old 05-30-2018, 01:53 PM   #10
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Dometic door heater switch install video -Saves Battery ah !

Quote:
Originally Posted by Vantair View Post
BillfronWI,
True. Single throw single pole SPST is all you really need but for approx same size/almost same price this unit is “actually” a similar 1on/2off switch.
Also this double pole single throw DPST operates same method but doubling connections across now both terminals so doubles or more the current and power rating thus long term reliability.
Why not at same time of price/install effort I say.�� Making our Airstreams better. !

http://www.airforums.com/forums/f37/...eo-182263.html
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Old 12-03-2018, 11:02 AM   #11
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I'm getting ready to leave on a 3 week trip, boon-docking off and on, so want to reduce my battery draw from the refrigerator heater strip.

I found an easy disconnect that appears to work on my 2018 27FB Tommy Bahama. According at the wiring diagram, the heating cable (not the 120v one) is wire T, Wire T has a 10 on the diagram which maps to color 10 - light blue.

Looking at the circuit board, I saw one light blue wire attached to the circuit board (yellow circle on pic), and another to a common ground, visible in the bottom right corder. It seemed like this should be the heater cable. I disconnected it and everything seems to work just fine.

Checking before and after amp draws on my Victron monitor, I see about a 0.8 amp reduction in battery draw when fridge is operating on propane.

Any comments?



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Thanks!
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Old 12-03-2018, 11:04 AM   #12
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Corrected amp savings on original post to 0.8 amp savings.
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Old 12-04-2018, 07:24 AM   #13
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Thanks for the continued feedback! I found the same thing...when I disconnected that cable I got about 0.8 amp per hour less draw. That is ~20 amps a day savings, a good chunk if you are boondocking. It has made a huge difference.

We really did not see any difference in refrig performance (door moisture) with it disconnected. However, since it connects via spade lugs, I bought an automotive switch with spade lugs, put lugs on both ends and reconnected the cable. Now I can just open the exterior refrig compartment and flick it on and off whenever we are boondocking.

BTW, this does not affect operation of the light.

I know others suggest putting the switch inside the refrigerator (in the light), another valid way of doing it, but I found the method I used to be quick and easy.
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