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Old 09-28-2020, 05:29 PM   #1
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Dometic model RM3762RBX won't run electric

Plugged in my 2013 Intl 27FB a couple of weeks ago (50 amp). Refigerator was running fine (38-39) until this morning. Set on automatic and had switched over to propane. My propane was turned off therefore it was not cooling and was down to 57 degrees. I turned the propane on and it cooled back down. I have turned the unit off/on a couple of times and set it on automatic but it keeps running on propane (propane light on). Any ideas why it won't run on electric?

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Old 09-28-2020, 05:39 PM   #2
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First step would be to verify that there is 120 volts at the outlet the fridge is plugged into.
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Old 09-29-2020, 07:16 AM   #3
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Yep. Plug in your polarity checker or any random light in that outlet, and if dead go to your converter to check for blown fuses or flipped breakers.
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First step would be to verify that there is 120 volts at the outlet the fridge is plugged into.
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Old 09-29-2020, 08:30 AM   #4
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Any idea where the plug is.

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Old 09-29-2020, 09:33 AM   #5
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Looking in the access door from the outside, mine is on the left, just above the top of the access door. Looks like any other 120VAC outlet.
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Old 09-29-2020, 10:34 AM   #6
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Thanks for the heads-up on plug/internals location. Outlet is OK. Anybody have any other suggestions regarding this problem? Is my next step a repair person?

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Old 09-29-2020, 10:55 AM   #7
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Steve,

Do you have a multimeter and willing to try a few checks?

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Old 09-29-2020, 08:54 PM   #8
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Gary,

Thanks for the reply and sorry for taking so long to respond. No, I don't have a multimeter. Never got that high in the electrical repair arena to purchase/learn to use one. Think it is time to contact my mobile RV repair guy. Thanks again.

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Old 09-29-2020, 09:27 PM   #9
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One other very simple thing to try. Open the refrigerator door. Look at.the fins. On the right side there should be a gizmo clipped to a fin attached to two light wires. If it is hanging by.the wires and swinging, attach it to a fin.... like a a clothes pin. Check the temp again in an hour or so. If the fins are getting a haze of frost you probably fixed it.. Moving the clamp/pin higher or lower on the fin affects how cold it will ultimately get. Start in the middle.

Yet one more idea. A bird nest, rodent nest, etc. That blocks the chimney can trap heat next to the reefer. Open the outside service door, contort neck and.look up. If blocked a broom handle may break up the blockage and let things cool off.
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Old 09-30-2020, 04:47 AM   #10
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Steve,

This is the simplest test for now if you can get some help.

Resistance test for the electric heating element.

The boiler needs heat to boil the soup and make cold. The fridge has a gas flame or electric heating element.

The heating element is inside the flue, two wires connect to the control panel and the control panel applies power to the element and heat the soup.

POWER off, disconnect the fridge 120 volt plug from the outlet. I think you can leave the 12VDC power connected.

Remove the cover over the control panel, follow the wires from the heater in the flue back to the control panel, remove them from the panel.

Now with the borrowed meter test the resistance of the heating element. You select the Ohms setting and touch the meter leads to the heating element terminals.

Darren shows you how to do it.

Gary

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Old 09-30-2020, 03:20 PM   #11
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Gary,

Thank U very much. Your advice on this forum is greatly appreciated.

Steve
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Old 09-30-2020, 04:02 PM   #12
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Steve

Not sure if that link worked on not. But this is Darren diagnosing works on gas but not Electric.



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