Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
 
Old 07-18-2003, 12:39 PM   #21
4 Rivet Member
 
Jabba's Avatar
 
1955 30' Liner Commodore Vanderbilt
Wayne County , Michigan
Join Date: Sep 2002
Posts: 421
Images: 17
Hi Brett,

Thanks for the pointer. I'll see if there is somewhere I can mount it and try and center it under the coils, above the burner. Right now I have to crank the T-stat to the max setting to get it in the zone, so hopefully this will help.

Thanks!
__________________
Jason & Veronica J.
S.E. Michigan
1955 Commodore Vanderbilt 30'
"Hawley"
TAC Member MI-6
2008 Chevy Silverado Ext. Z71 w3.73
Jabba is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-20-2003, 04:21 PM   #22
2 Rivet Member
 
Join Date: Feb 2003
Posts: 41
Aux. Fans

I did all my work installing the aux. fan thru the access door behind the refrig. I reached as high as I could, which was bear to do, and using a 1/4" air ratchet and self tapping screws I was able to secure the fan and fabricated bracket to the inner wall. The 110V fan is very quiet and only draws less than an amp (if that as per the appliance parts store person).

Any additional air movement is what is needed.

Dave Spann
davespann is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-18-2003, 08:21 AM   #23
2 Rivet Member
 
JimC's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2003
Posts: 87
Images: 14
I just read this thread and the fan ideas sound good. This winter I will rebuild the cabinets around our new 2510. A fan will be added to increase air flow over the cooling coils. I also plan to add foam insulation to the sides and top of the cabinet holding the refrigerator.

The higher the air tempature is inside the trailer, the more insulation it takes to slow the heat flow into the refrigerator. Also, the high air tempature reduces the efficiency of heat flow out of the cooling coils. This makes me wonder if insulation added to the exterior wall behind the refrigerator would help also? Anybody have thoughts on this?
JimC is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-16-2004, 03:29 AM   #24
4 Rivet Member
 
Join Date: Feb 2003
Posts: 307
Maybe this explains my current situation. My Dometic is not level,and the fresh food section does not go below 60F, whereas I remember the last time it was level, it went to below 30F. Hm.

Quote:
Another issue that can cause erratic cooling is whether the refrigerator is level - - in other words has the coach been leveled. Again, the older the coach/refrigerator the more critical the leveling becomes. My Argosy is far more sensitive to the degree to which the coach has been leveled than is the Overlander with its newer refrigerator.
__________________
Justice - When you get what you deserve. Mercy - When you don't get what you deserve
Grace - When you get what you don't deserve
ipso_facto is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-11-2004, 07:41 AM   #25
1 Rivet Member
 
Join Date: Dec 2003
Posts: 14
coil heat

Quote:
Originally Posted by overlander64
Greetings Linda!

Welcome to the Forums!

You may not have a problem. How long was the refrigerator in operation when you noted the temperature? Especially if you have a Vintage coach with a vintage Dometic refrigerator it will take several hous for the refrigerator to cool noticeably - - the freezer will be the first to actually feel cold. For instance, in my '78 Argosy Minuet it takes about two to four hours for the freezer to begin to feel cold while it might take 12 to 36 hours for the refrigerator to reach its normal operating temperature. In my Overlander which has a two year old Dometic 3-Way refrigerator, these times are much faster - - almost 50% faster.

Another issue that can cause erratic cooling is whether the refrigerator is level - - in other words has the coach been leveled. Again, the older the coach/refrigerator the more critical the leveling becomes. My Argosy is far more sensitive to the degree to which the coach has been leveled than is the Overlander with its newer refrigerator.

Good luck with your coach!

Kevin
I have the same problems as everyone and I was wondering as you feel the coils on the back where should the most heat be and the least. Mine is hot on the top pipe out of the boiler to the evaporator and is cooled down after it leaves the evap. It is cold as it leaves the frig at the exit point of the fresh food section. What puzzles me is how hot the pipe is from the boiler bottom to the vessel ,is that normal?Jim
farmerjim is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-16-2006, 09:26 PM   #26
Rivet Master
 
gaylejoe's Avatar
 
2007 25' Safari FB SE
St. Hedwig , Texas
Join Date: Jul 2006
Posts: 586
Regarding the setting for the temp, which setting is colder? A high or low number.
gaylejoe is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-16-2006, 09:34 PM   #27
Rivet Master
 
Chaplain Kent's Avatar
 
1994 30' Excella
Currently Looking...
Milwaukee , Wisconsin
Join Date: May 2004
Posts: 1,935
Quote:
Originally Posted by gaylejoe
Regarding the setting for the temp, which setting is colder? A high or low number.
The higher the number the colder the setting.
__________________
Chaplain Kent
Forest River Forester 2501TS
Chaplain Kent is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-19-2006, 05:06 PM   #28
1 Rivet Member
 
1967 22' Safari
Cary , North Carolina
Join Date: Mar 2005
Posts: 8
Dometic Baffle

Quote:
Originally Posted by overlander64
Greetings Linda!

Welcome to the Forums!

You may not have a problem. How long was the refrigerator in operation when you noted the temperature? Especially if you have a Vintage coach with a vintage Dometic refrigerator it will take several hous for the refrigerator to cool noticeably - - the freezer will be the first to actually feel cold. For instance, in my '78 Argosy Minuet it takes about two to four hours for the freezer to begin to feel cold while it might take 12 to 36 hours for the refrigerator to reach its normal operating temperature. In my Overlander which has a two year old Dometic 3-Way refrigerator, these times are much faster - - almost 50% faster.

Another issue that can cause erratic cooling is whether the refrigerator is level - - in other words has the coach been leveled. Again, the older the coach/refrigerator the more critical the leveling becomes. My Argosy is far more sensitive to the degree to which the coach has been leveled than is the Overlander with its newer refrigerator.

Good luck with your coach!

Kevin
Kevin, read many of your great responses--thought you may be able to help with my '67 Safari project...I need a Dometic gas tube baffle to replace the one in my MA52 Dometic gas/electric uint. Do you know of a source for old refrigerator parts? Thanks much/Joe.
Joe Hege is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply


Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
removing Dometic Refrigerator smily Refrigerators 16 08-18-2010 03:36 AM
Engine Revving Problem winner Mechanics Corner - Engines, Transmission & More... 19 02-08-2010 10:05 PM
Propane fridge installation yaakman Refrigerators 5 09-12-2002 06:34 PM
dometic 3way refer. will Refrigerators 3 08-23-2002 04:52 PM
Electrical problem resolved davidz71 Electrical - Systems, Generators, Batteries & Solar 5 08-12-2002 08:21 PM


Featured Campgrounds

Reviews provided by

Disclaimer:

This website is not affiliated with or endorsed by the Airstream, Inc. or any of its affiliates. Airstream is a registered trademark of Airstream Inc. All rights reserved. Airstream trademark used under license to Social Knowledge LLC.



All times are GMT -6. The time now is 01:42 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.8 Beta 1
Copyright ©2000 - 2020, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.