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Old 09-01-2024, 03:58 PM   #21
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Naalehu , Hawaii
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Oh-oh!

Just had one more question. When you said heat element - is there a „built-in“ transformer that powers up the 12 v to 220v or 110 v respectively, depending on board. In that case, I guess you would need the appropriate heat element. Oops - I guess I’ll have to try to hunt down a 220 V board.
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Old 09-02-2024, 08:34 AM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Barbz View Post
Just had one more question. When you said heat element - is there a „built-in“ transformer that powers up the 12 v to 220v or 110 v respectively, depending on board. In that case, I guess you would need the appropriate heat element. Oops - I guess I’ll have to try to hunt down a 220 V board.
Propane fridges designed to work on both 12vdc and 120vac or 220vac will have an electric heating element inserted into the chimney to heat the system when you're not using propane. Some will have two, one for use on 12vdc and one for use on AC power (120v or 220v).

It's my understanding that when you system is being operated on AC power the control board simply sends 120vac or 220vac (depending on the system) to the heating element. That's why it would be important to confirm that the heating element you have will work on the voltage being supplied to it.

A 220v heating element will be safe with only 120v, it just won't heat fully. But, the other way around is dangerous and a 120v element connected to 220v will likely overheat and meltdown.

This can all be remedied very easily if you get the 120v board to work. The heating elements are VERY easy to change out - they are simply inserted into a slot inside the chimney and connected with a couple of push-on connectors.
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Old 09-02-2024, 11:40 PM   #23
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Thank you!

I really appreciate your input! I think I will just experiment and switch out the board, can’t be much worse than it is now - fridge not working . 110 V boards aren’t that expensive. I’ll post back on my progress.
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