Compact Home Refrigerator or RV Refrigerator?

[timzog]

Originally Posted by lewster

Actually, they cost significantly LESS!

Very low amp draw, excellent cooling/freezing (no more RV soft-serve ice cream ) and are built to take a eating and can run 30* off level. They sure have my vote!

Lewster,
Do you have a Danfoss unit? I am thinking about trying to build my own refrigerator with a Danfoss compressor kit so that I can mount the compressor coils in the current refrigerator chimney of my 1980 Caravelle and move the refrigerator away from the door a few feet. To save energy, I've been trying to imagine ways to get a top loader or drawer system to work with a super insulated cabinet. I've read that a lot of cold air falls out of the box when a front loader is opened and that drawers or top loaders reduce the overall energy load tremendously. However I can see the top loader being a pain in a vehicle with limited counter space. It would be much easier to build a super insulated top loader though.
Thanks
Tim

[masseyfarm]

What is SO .040?

Dave

Originally Posted by Melody Ranch

I put a Kenmore compact refrigerator in. Dimensions were almost the same...I had to elevate it about one inch and used that brace as the attach to the floor Then I took some SO .040 and hand formed it to the curved door edges. Then, for the "Airstream" of it...I used Olympics (way more than needed) around the edges to give it the appropriate look. The SO polished up too.

[Bill M.]

We carried a small 110 frig in our popups for many years. We put blue ice in the freezer section and just left it there. We could go a full day and sometimes 2 days traveling and stuff would still be cold. Does tie you to sites with electricity if that is an issue. I would go that route for a while. You might like it.

[Aage]

Regarding the original fridge, even if it has suffered a mortal hit (the cooling system leaked) the guts of all those refers can be replaced. I won't say cheaply, but for far less than a new RV refer can be purchased.

Just a thought. Even though you may think it's a piece of junk right now, you may find yourself changing your mind at some point further on. The door staining can be overcome.

If you really think it's not for you, then please offer the old one here, you will get takers. Just put up a free message on our Classifieds...

[wkerfoot]

I have a DanFoss unit in my Liner. I like it and did not have to cut any holes in the side for ventilation. You do need someway to keep your batteries charges, since they are 100% electric. I opted for solar panels. In addition, since there is a compressor they are noisy, especially compared to the silent ammonia absorption type. On the plus side, they cool down very quickly.

Bill

Originally Posted by timzog

Lewster,
Do you have a Danfoss unit? I am thinking about trying to build my own refrigerator with a Danfoss compressor kit so that I can mount the compressor coils in the current refrigerator chimney of my 1980 Caravelle and move the refrigerator away from the door a few feet. To save energy, I've been trying to imagine ways to get a top loader or drawer system to work with a super insulated cabinet. I've read that a lot of cold air falls out of the box when a front loader is opened and that drawers or top loaders reduce the overall energy load tremendously. However I can see the top loader being a pain in a vehicle with limited counter space. It would be much easier to build a super insulated top loader though.
Thanks
Tim

[lewster]

Originally Posted by timzog

Lewster,
Do you have a Danfoss unit? I am thinking about trying to build my own refrigerator with a Danfoss compressor kit so that I can mount the compressor coils in the current refrigerator chimney of my 1980 Caravelle and move the refrigerator away from the door a few feet. To save energy, I've been trying to imagine ways to get a top loader or drawer system to work with a super insulated cabinet. I've read that a lot of cold air falls out of the box when a front loader is opened and that drawers or top loaders reduce the overall energy load tremendously. However I can see the top loader being a pain in a vehicle with limited counter space. It would be much easier to build a super insulated top loader though.
Thanks
Tim

HI Tim,

I currently have a Danfoss portable top loader and it functions very well. I am almost at the point of getting a 9 Cu/ft front door unit to replace the Dometic in my MoHo. I wouldn't worry too much about the loss of cold air as the Danfoss is very efficient and will re-cool the unit quickly. This in direct opposition to an ammonia RV fridge, which requires an hour to replace the cooled air for every MINUTE that the front door is open!!

I have also considered a remote mount kit, but I have plenty of room in the new coach for a complete unit.

[markdoane]

Originally Posted by masseyfarm

What is SO .040?

Dave

It's 0.040 of whatever-was-lying-around-the-shop-that-looked-right for the job.
Aka "shop order".