Can I use a "Residential" LP/electric fridge?

[J. Morgan]

My 10 cuft residential fridge draws about 120 watts (one amp) @ 120 volts AC when the compressor is running.

On an inverter this will equate to about 11 amps at 12V DC including 10% for inverter overhead.

Two 100 amp hour batteries will give about ten hours of compressor duty at a 50% discharge rate. (The compressor does not always run)

When towing the trailer, my TV alternator will run the fridge while charging my batteries at the same time.

For me, a cheap ($400) apartment fridge was the best answer. I am at over a year in with my big fridge, no problems at all to date.

Brevi tempore!

[J. Morgan]

Concerning the fridge that this thread is about, I would try to find out what ALL the differences are between the stationary fridge and the like RV fridge are and to see what it takes to make it work.

My bet is that the cooling unit itself is identical, but I reserve the right to be wrong.

Perhaps a shop manual will demonstrate the differences?


Brevi tempore!

[0557]

I use a Grape Solar 5.1 cubic ft AC/DC fridge. it fits perfect in the frame.
The only downgrade is 18inches shorter and I'll be using the extra space for kitchen storage.

[TG Twinkie]

The stationary refer uses a compressor. The RV refer has no compressor, instead it uses a boiler. They are not similar in any way except to be a rectangular box.


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[J. Morgan]

I thought the op said that the fridge he was looking at would run on LP?


Brevi tempore!