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Chuck · 06-12-2002, 11:56 AM

...the antenna jack in a 73 safari 23'? The unit I just bought has a roof antenna that the previous owner's never used. It looks like it might have been factory installed...its the folding kind w/ the crank on the ceiling. We were poking around yesterday, and couldn't seem to find any sign of a connection point for the tv. not even a "scar" where one might have been removed in the past. the walls are all pristine-looking. I know that it "could" be anywhere, but I was just wondering if anyone know's where the factory put these......(it looks to me like it would be a real pain to "fish" a wire through the walls....). (oh, the owner's manual doesn't say a thing about it; only how to operate the antenna...no mention of where the connection is on the interior).

thenewkid64 · 06-12-2002, 12:05 PM

On the walls in the front lounge, usally by the refer, and in the back near the bed you should have a wedge shaped bump that contains a 12V DC Socket. These are sometimes hidden behind the curtains. Alongside this 12 VDC socket in the plastic the should be 2 small holes. These 2 small holes are what the original antenna wiring would have plugged into. Up intil the 80s this was the way they were setup because it was a straight thru, non converted way to connect to the 300 ohm lead. The wedge shaped cover is held on with 4 screws. You could get a 75-300 ohm matching transformer from Radio shack to convert you over to regular coax. You might have to search around to find the original style connectors.

Good Luck

Chuck · 06-12-2002, 01:03 PM

thanks, Brett. I'll check it out. I'm assuming that the 12volt DC outlet looks like an automobile "cigarette lighter" type plug? I'm thinking that it might be over the refer. there's a tambour cabinet on the counter that is over the refer in this unit...perhaps its hiding in there. I did see in the owner's manual, they marked the locations of all the outlets on a diagram, and a 12v was indicated to be right near the fridge...

I probably won't ever use it. where I'm going, there isn't much for vhs reception anyway. I'm just curious....gotta try out every little aspect of my new toy!

Stougard · 06-12-2002, 01:46 PM

Chuck,

I also own a 73, 23ft Safari. I have the same factory installed antenna which is breaking at the piviting points due to corrosion. Like Brett said, my antenna lead travels across the ceiling to a plastic box hanging from the overhead tambour bin just above the refrigerator. This wedge shaped box also has a 12 volt socket simular to the cigarette lighter in your car. If a dearler put the antenna in at a later date it may be anywhere the customer wanted it. I have had leaks at the antenna base and where the antenna lead enters the roof. I replaced the O-ring seal on the antenna shaft and planned to seal the cable hole but I have since decided to remove the antenna all together. As I said earlier, the antenna was coming apart at the joints and it was a great branch catcher. If I need another antenna at a later date, I will go to a freestanding dish or a newer type. I currently have the center section of my ceiling down in order to dry out the insulation. The wet insulation was like a sponge and was shorting inline crimp connectors to the aluminum shell. My battery didn't last very long! Good luck and it's great to hear someone else has a safari just like mine.

Larry

Chuck · 06-12-2002, 02:29 PM

yep, you said "hello" before. well, as you can see, I finally decided to buy the thing. I'm really surprised that no one else snapped it up before I could, as its really in good shape. I haven't had a chance to inspect the antenna itself yet; I will when I get it home. right now, its in the repair shop. I went to "pass papers" on it yesterday. The previous owners towed it to their favorite local campground so I could see it all set up and test all the systems out, and also get a lesson in how to use things. Well, when we turned on the water, we discovered a leak under the sink, so the resident repairman (who I'm told is quite experienced in airstreams) is going to fix that, and any other leaks he may find, as well as a test of the propane system. Not going to cost me anything, so that's good!!

How do you take down a section of the ceiling, anyway? I was looking at things yesterday, thinking about how I would go about running a wire "here or there", if the need arises. It doesn't look easy.

Stougard · 06-12-2002, 05:08 PM

Chuck,

It was not that easy and I hope I can get it back up. I removed the two foot wide center panel by first removing the antenna knob, vent and light fixture, and anything else that would be attached to the panel (pop-rivets). The panel will slide fore and aft some. I slid the panel to the rear of the trailer enough to expose the front edge. I then pulled the panel down cupping it as pulled it out of the side slots. I pulled it forward as I continued to pull it down. The panel runs back to the AC. You'll need to pull the panel forward enough to clear the crossbar above the folding door. Anyway, it all came down exposing all the overhead wiring including the antenna leads. The edges of the aluminum panel were bent alittle from the ordeal but they were easy to flatten back out. I have not tried to put the panel back so wish me luck! I plan to lubricate the edges of the panel so they will slide back in easier than they came out. Sounds like your privious owners took very good care of yours.

Larry

Chuck · 06-13-2002, 08:40 AM

Wow, that sounds hairy! dont' think I want to go there....

I couldn't even easily see how to get the "headliner" off. well, it looks like a headliner; don't know if that's the correct terminology. but its in such good shape, I hate to mess with it. I suppose if there were any leaks, they'd be apparent from stains, etc in this liner?

Stougard · 06-13-2002, 09:18 AM

Chuck,

If you don't really have to, I wouldn't take the "headliner" down either. Even though I had alot of water in my ceiling, I had no indication there was a leak until I started having electrical problems. That is why it is important not to ignore anything out of the ordinary with a travel trailer (especially older ones like ours). Any water my insulation didn't soak up probably ran down the walls to the floor area. Many people don't realize they have a leak until they discover rot or other problems with the floor. Living in Washington State is a great place to learn about leak problems. I think I'm going to buy a cover for my trailer this fall. I know many say not to, as the cover may cause wear to the coating on the outside skin. My Safari is parked in my driveway where there is alot of large trees around. We have fir, cedar, alder, maple, hazel, and of course the evil cottonwood. Some of these trees are over 80 feet high. I think I cause more damage to the coating just cleaning off all the tree sap and other crap than would ever happen by a cover. The thought of putting a cover over the top is one reason I am considering taking the old style antenna off.

Larry

Chuck · 06-13-2002, 09:33 AM

yeah, this is something that concerned me about buying this trailer: how do I know there's no leaks?? there's no way to really "inspect" the floor or anything. sure, I poked around, looking for soft spots and couldn't find anything. everything in the interior looks fine, though. I was thinking...I may remove the carpet and replace it w/ pergo or something similar. I suppose that'll give me a look at much of the subfloor. I'm wondering if it wouldn't be a good idea to install some inspection panels in the floor so if need be, I can access the plumbing and so-forth. (some sort of "trap-door" sort of thing...).

I live in the woods, too, surrounded by tall pines and oaks. (kinda makes me wonder why I bought a trailer to go out in the woods to camp

). Anyway, I was thinking the same thing about a cover of some sort...maybe one of those tent-garages. they're kinda pricey, though...

InsideOut · 06-13-2002, 10:10 AM

I've seen these at Costco and thought that it would be a good economical ($149) solution to tree sap or shade while polishing...may need two for a longer trailer.

Canopy Link Click on "10x20 Steel Frame Canopy" towards the bottom of the page.

Also may have to modify the poles for a taller unit, I'm not sure...just an idea.

Has anybody used one of these?

Shari

P.S. There's also an official "RV Canopy" offered for $1449.99

Chuck · 06-13-2002, 10:24 AM

I was actually thinking the same thing when I was in Costco the other day. They had it out on display, and the legs were attached to some lenths of pvc pipe to raise it up a couple of feet. Now, if only it came in a dark-green color, so it would blend in with my woods......

InsideOut · 06-13-2002, 10:30 AM

The "Powell & Powell RV Canopy" also available is blue...but it's not as economical! It looks to be a more solid & permanent solution though...

Shari

Chuck · 06-13-2002, 10:55 AM

I GUESS its a tad less economical....for that kind of $$$ you could probably get one of these:
http://coveritshelters.com/residential/res_rv.html

they don't have prices on the site, but I think I saw some prices on a dealer's website once...they start around 500 bucks.

Ok, just found this site...they have prices posted: http://www.sheltersofnewengland.com/

looks like you could get an RV-sized one for under $1000.....

Stougard · 06-13-2002, 11:27 AM

Chuck,

My brother bought one of those white canopies they sell at Costco. He made the big mistake of not staking the legs to the ground. A wind storm moved his canopy to another location scratching his new Saturn in the process. (He drove long spikes into the ground after that). I like the steel canopy they sell at Home Depot but it is alittle more than I'm ready to pay. It comes in various heights and lengths and looks much stronger than most. I see alot of these around the NorthWest. For my 23ft. trailer it would cost around $1500. A high price to keep leaves off but a bargin compared to a tree limb dent.

Larry