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Old 09-15-2016, 09:10 PM   #21
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1986 34' Limited
1975 27' Overlander
Conifer , Colorado
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Does your Airstream have one axle or two. It appears from the 1st photo your posted it has two, and I've not seen a 72 Safari with dual axles. Maybe it is just a shadow or something.

New bearings are a good idea. You'll be changing both cones and cups I presume. You will get a good look at your brake drums and brake shoes and magnets during this maintenance. It is a bit of a challenge to get the races pressed out of the drums. You may have to rent a tool to do it. I did.

You will have the trailer jacked up of course. So take a look at the position of the swing arm on the axle. After the wheel and brake drum are off, the swing arm ought to be tilted about 22 degrees down. This is the new axle "O" load point. The swing arm will be slightly down when the trailer is on the ground and ready to tow.

Old axles get hard rubber rods, especially after sitting for many years. They say axle life is about 25 years plus or minus. Hard rubber rods means limited suspension ability and a rough ride for the trailer. If your trailer is towing like a ox cart, then new axle may be in the plans.

David
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Old 09-16-2016, 06:39 AM   #22
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1977 23' Safari
Niagara on the Lake , Ontario
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Originally Posted by Mx468 View Post
Wheel bearings, new rims and tires are next on my agenda. Axles seem to ride fine on my 45 minute drive back with the airstream but need to get under her and investigate a little more. What should I be looking for? Thanks.


Jack up the trailer under the axle mounting plate. If the wheels drop 3" or more you have suspension travel and you're axles are still good. If you jack up the trailer and the wheels don't drop, the rubber has hardened and the axles need to be replaced. Many on this site will say to change the axles based on age alone, that's not necessary.

As for bearings, clean and inspect, of they're not rusty or pitted, repack and reinstall. Bearings don't wear out of properly maintained and serviced.
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Old 09-23-2016, 04:49 PM   #23
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1972 23' Safari
Camas , Washington
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Good job! Looks similar to ours. Nice job on the dent.
I was wondering if your front dinette was added later? we have a slide out Gaucho or Couch in the front with a fold out table by the front door.
how is the back bath and frame under the rear bath? We had to replace 3 feet of the main frame plus 2 cross members and outriggers. Your looks to be in better shape over all than what we started with. Keep us updated on progress.
I've been doing a bit of polishing on the upper roof to remove some oxidation or sun spots, bringing back a newer look, doing the truck box polish working good removing the sun spots.
good luck have fun.
David
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Old 09-23-2016, 11:59 PM   #24
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1972 23' Safari
Middletown , Rhode Island
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Hey David my back floor under the bathroom will need replacing. I have a welder that lives 1 street a way from me who will be doing the job. Pretty much the same damage as yours. Except I will be needing a new rear bumper, 2 cross members, and also the side rails about 6 ft from the axles replaced.
As for the front dinette the previous owner built the unit. No gaucho came with the trailer.
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Old 09-24-2016, 04:18 AM   #25
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1972 23' Safari
Stockbridge , Georgia
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We have a 72 Dual Axle Safari. Has wardrobe in middle and one bed. 23 foot. Was in great shape when we purchased about 10 years ago. Replaced water heater and Fridge. Changed front couch to a motor home style sofa bed. Slide out drawers fit under it perfectly. Tow with 02 Suburban now and I have to look back to make sure it is there.
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Old 09-24-2016, 08:35 PM   #26
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1986 34' Limited
1975 27' Overlander
Conifer , Colorado
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Replacing that rotted subfloor and repairing the frame back there is the right thing to do. It's a lot of work, but worth it in my view. The bath fiberglass and plastic parts in your trailer look to be in pretty good shape. Hopefully they will come out and go back in without anyone knowing what happened.

Is your bath a wet bath? Some models had a tub, shower next to the toilet. Just wondering.

David
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Old 09-25-2016, 01:52 AM   #27
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1972 23' Safari
Stockbridge , Georgia
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Wet Bath just like mine.
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Old 09-26-2016, 06:08 PM   #28
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1972 23' Safari
Middletown , Rhode Island
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new updates

Yup I have a wet bath. Finished painting all the screens, installed new screen material and new fuzzy bug keep outer things on all windows, added a new rod and curtain to separate the back bed area from the galley. Also ready to por-15 the hitch tomorrow and than install my new RAM electric jack.
I picked up new aluminum 15" tires and rims last week and they will go on after the hitch facelift.
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Old 09-30-2016, 02:08 PM   #29
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1972 23' Safari
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Small update

Ok got some work done, new electric jack is now installed and all window screens are back in. Just got my 60 amp intelli power converter just waiting on my fuse board before install. Hope it all goes well. Any tips on the converter install?
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Old 09-30-2016, 03:38 PM   #30
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1973 25' Tradewind
Redding , California
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Originally Posted by Mx468 View Post
Ok got some work done, new electric jack is now installed and all window screens are back in. Just got my 60 amp intelli power converter just waiting on my fuse board before install. Hope it all goes well. Any tips on the converter install?
a couple... the univolt has a circuit board in it that should be removed before throwing the it away. It's easy to remove and contains the shunt that works the voltage meter on the control center board. Many have actually used the board as the fuse board. I like your idea of upgrading so you can use the blade style fuses. My son wired ours, he's 16. It's not difficult. Also take lots of pictures before removing anything so you have a reference of where all the wires go. Just in case.
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Old 09-30-2016, 07:14 PM   #31
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1986 34' Limited
1975 27' Overlander
Conifer , Colorado
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I've installed two converters. Your "shore power" 115v AC is going to power the converter. The converter may come with a standard plug looking for a standard outlet. One converter I used the plug / outlet method, and the other one I hard wired the converter to the 115v AC. Both have a dedicated 10 gage copper wire to the chassis ground. It's best to have a direct ground. My 115v AC ground and 12v DC ground are attached to the frame rail at different places. Make sure the ground connection is a clean, tight connection. There ought to be a circuit from your AC power distribution panel that has a circuit breaker to protect the converter. This may not be a dedicated circuit, and it doesn't need to be.

There, your converter (functions like a transformer) now has 115v AC power.

Your new converter will power all of the trailer's 12v circuits. My 66 Trade Wind has three circuits, my son's 69 globetrotter has two. Each of the 12v circuits are, or will be, protected with a 12v automotive blade type fuse. I used 20 amp fuses. Getting all these wires into that itty bitty fuse panel was a challenge for me.

The converter positive 12vDC wire will attach to the plus side of your fuse panel. The negative wire to the negative "bus bar" in your fuse panel. And the ground wire to the ground bus bar in your fuse panel.

There will be a wire from the tow vehicle umbilical that provides 12vDC "charging" to the trailer. Maybe it is a blue wire, but I don't remember. This wire also goes to the plus side of your fuse panel.

Last you will connect your 12vDC battery to the fuse panel. Again positive to the positive side of the fuse panel, and the negative to the negative bus bar. The converter will supply from about 14.5 volts (low battery) to 13 volts (charged battery) to properly maintain your battery.

Maybe this helps understand the task at hand.

David
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Old 10-02-2016, 08:46 PM   #32
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1972 23' Safari
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Best place for converter install/72 safari....

Should I install the new converter in the same space as the old univolt? Bathroom closet? Has anyone moved theirs? If so where? Thanks. Also does anyone one know if 2 - 6 volt batteries will fit in the safari's battery compartment?
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Old 10-02-2016, 09:28 PM   #33
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1973 23' Safari
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Boerne , Texas
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I am in that process now with my 73 Safari. I've decided to put my converter and AC/DC distribution center under the bed on the curb side just on the other side of the bulk head where the univolt used to be. I plan on keeping the battery in the same original battery compartment - I think it is a group 27 battery. I will stick with that for now (the PO just bought one - so it is pretty new and works well). I don't think that two 6v batteries will fit in there - but I have not tried.
Greg
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Old 10-03-2016, 01:24 AM   #34
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1972 23' Safari
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I am in that process now with my 73 Safari. I've decided to put my converter and AC/DC distribution center under the bed on the curb side just on the other side of the bulk head where the univolt used to be. I plan on keeping the battery in the same original battery compartment - I think it is a group 27 battery. I will stick with that for now (the PO just bought one - so it is pretty new and works well). I don't think that two 6v batteries will fit in there - but I have not tried.
Greg
Hey Greg can you take some pics when you do the install. I'd be interested in seeing what you do. Thanks.
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Old 10-03-2016, 03:24 AM   #35
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6 volt batteries

2 6 volts will not fit. 2 6volt golf cart batteries outperform and outlast 12 volt batteries. Lot of Bass Pros use them.
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Old 10-03-2016, 08:57 AM   #36
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I'm replacing the converter in my '77 Safari right now.
It's easiest to keep it where the univolt was and close to the batteries.
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Old 10-03-2016, 01:48 PM   #37
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I'm replacing the converter in my '77 Safari right now.
It's easiest to keep it where the univolt was and close to the batteries.
X2
Keep in mind you need a 120vac source and run some heavy wire to the 12vdc distribution/fuse panel. Easiest to do where it was unless looking for some rewiring.
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Old 10-03-2016, 03:04 PM   #38
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1973 23' Safari
1970 27' Overlander
Boerne , Texas
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MX - will do - but I am a ways off from that. Just getting in my insulation now; will be awhile before I get the beds framed out. Also, just to let you know, I gutted my trailer and re-did all the wiring, so easy to relocate things. If you are not gutting the trailer and re-wiring, would definitely be more troublesome to relocate things. In addition to a new converter (Boondocker 60 amp), I am using the PD5000 distribution panel which has the AC and DC boxes all together - it seems easy to work with.
Greg
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Old 10-03-2016, 06:18 PM   #39
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1975 27' Overlander
Conifer , Colorado
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I changed locations on both of the converters I've installed; 66 Trade Wind, and 69 Globetrotter. I did so to increase the outside storage space. In the Trade Wind, I put the converter on the floor in the bathroom wardrobe (under a false floor) from the rear. This is where the water heater was. I moved the water heater forward under the bed in a totally dead space in my Trade Wind. I moved the Globetrotter from the rear compartment to the smaller side compartment under the "bed" gaucho. I moved the battery there too. This significantly increased the storage room in the rear compartment.

It is true you have to make a new wire run to the new converter location, and they are 8 and 10 gauge wire to handle the amps. I ran them in plastic conduit. I also need to add a 115vDC circuit to the new converter location. More cost, more work, but I like the additional storage room for my junk.

David
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Old 10-24-2016, 05:18 PM   #40
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Camas , Washington
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Here are a few pictures of the 30 amp shore power the in from shore is at the top.
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