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Old 08-01-2005, 07:12 PM   #21
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Wink

Davydd -- Know what you mean on my first love, the Boundary Waters... I've had to face the reality of orthopedics and use my kevlar Wenonah when I head to the far north lakes. But I have begun to lust after really shining up the ol' Grumman 17-footer under my deck - nothing travels more true on flat water (though, when have you ever seen a canoe with a keel .... ?!). Maybe when I have more time than I know what to do with.

flyfisher's suggestion would be the most practical for Larry's situation -- I know I would try that for a one-time answer.
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Old 08-02-2005, 01:23 PM   #22
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An easier way...

Somehow it seems like you guys are making carrying a canoe on a one time trip more complicated that it needs to be. I have a 16' canoe that I have carried a number of times on different vehicles using just the foam blocks to support the middle of the canoe above the roof of the tow vehicle. The canoe is mounted upside down and is tied down at each end, typically with a rope and some "s" hooks that connect down to the bumper. The rope is tied in a triangle from the end of the canoe down to both ends of the bumper. There is also a strap across the middle of the canoe to help hold it in place. That is the more dificult part depending on what type of vehicle you have. On older vehicles I had some simple strap clamps that fastened to the rain gutters at the sides of the roof that worked great. Unfortunately newer vehicles no longer have the same type of rain gutters. I once carried the canoe just fine on a VW rabbit that was actually slightly shorter than the canoe itself. More recently I worked out a way to carry it on my 2002 Dodge RAM pickup that might be similar to what you need here. I used the foam pads on the front part of the canoe on top of the cab. I tied the front down to the bumper in the way I described. I put a strap over the middle just behind the cab and ran the rope all the way down between the cab and bed and fastened to the frame. I could have fastened to the cargo hooks in the front of the bed except that I have a bed cover that would be in the way. Now the tricky part - how to support the back end of the canoe? I came up with a solution that is so simple it is elegant. I had an old mop handle of solid wood of the type that was for an actual string mop. I was able to get one end to fit into the mounting hole for a hitch ball on my step bumper. The other end with the bolt fit right through the eyelet hole on the back end of my canoe. I just cut the handle to the right length to suppor the canoe at the elevation I needed. I then added the strap to tie from the top of the mop handle the ends of the bumper. Since the step bumper mounting hole for a hitch ball is not actually used for towing I could easily carry the canoe and still tow my AS. The whole thing worked just fine at freeway speeds for a 300 mile trip without a problem.

Take a look at the attached photos for more detail. By the way lets not forget that a canoe does not weigh all that much. I think mine weighs in at less than 100 lbs.

Malcolm
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Old 08-02-2005, 01:51 PM   #23
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Dude! that's just the idea that I need to steal. um, I mean "borrow".

got the same problem...very similar truck, too. (is yours a quad-cab?) But, I use a toneau cover, which eliminates the posibility of any sort of "easy" bed rail-mounted rack, store bought, or home-made.

one idea I had was to use a regular roof-mount rack, just like sedan owner's use. I figure that the length of this extended cab truck is as long or longer than any sedan on the road, so it should work just the same. the other advantage is that they make canoe clamps that will eliminate the need for strapping. I don't have exact dimensions, but I'm assuming that the canoe in question is not as long as the truck, and if strapping to the bumpers was used, it would have to rub on some painted surface, front or back. (or both). which can't be a good thing. The problem, as usual, is that I am a cheap Bas*%#d, and these "Thule" systems cost a lot of dough.

I did see a commercial version of your simple solution on line somewhere, but it would still cost a pretty penny, and may be difficult to implement, using the hitch to tow something at the same time. it is a hitch mounted support that basically does the same thing your mop does. I'll see if I can find a link...

meanwhile: got any pics of the whole rig set up?? I'm having a hard time picturing the mop-handle's attachment to the canoe....
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Old 08-02-2005, 02:14 PM   #24
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(hey, what happened to the "edit post" button??)

anyway, found this: http://www.rackwarehouse.com/f1.html

there are others, too. but again: $$$$

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Old 08-02-2005, 02:14 PM   #25
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Chuck,

My truck is the regular cab so there is only enough roof to support the front end of the canoe. I have a regular cab short bed model so the truck is pretty close to the same length as the canoe. I think you could easily add some sort of padding to the front ropes or straps if they touch the hood. Maybe use a couple of terry cloth wash clothes wrapped around the straps and some electrical tape to hold them in place. I don't have a photo of the whole set up but I just went out and took a photo of the mop handle attached to the end of the canoe. The canoe is hanging right-side up now so in the photo the mop handle is installed up side down but I hope it gets the idea across. The hole in the end of the canoe is just the right size for the bolt on the end of the mop handle to fit through. The wing nut is part of the original mop handle. If you don't already have a mop handle like mine I am sure you could buy one for a lot less than anything fancier. My mop handle is about 1" in diameter and is pretty strong - plenty strong enough for this application.

Malcolm
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Old 08-02-2005, 07:08 PM   #26
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Titan can't or shouldn't do that

Nissan does not recommend racks on top of the Titan cab. In there engineering wisdom to cut weight the top sheet metal of the cab is not designed to carry any loads. So they say.

My 17 ft. aluminum canoe weighs about 70 lbs. I used to think that was light and could portage it easily a quarter mile with no sweat. Now I can hardly lift the dang thing. after 35 years of owning it. Our 58 lb. plastic kayaks take the two of us to load and I am thinking of trading up to those kevlar lightweight ones that way in the 40s.
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Old 08-02-2005, 07:24 PM   #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by flyfisher
Why can't you just make a rack out of 2x4's or something similar for the Titan? Doesn't it have slots in the top of the bedrail that you could fit those into and make your own canoe carrier. Lots of people who have trucks do that.

John
You are right. It could easily be done. The Nissan overhead racks look great but cost over $300. Then the Mighty Mounts to hold the kayak saddles cost me another $160 for the two kayaks and I had the saddles from before but they would also cost about $120 per kayak. I don't have a cheap setup. I was a sucker for the design and the synergy. I'm not the only one. I came out of a restaurant one night and there was another Titan parked nose to nose with mine with the exact same setup. What could be the odds of that considering when I first parked in the lot I got the last spot available?

We went kayaking with another guy that had a Chevy Silverado pickup and he built what you described out of wood that would probably cost you less than $30 plus labor. You could custom notch wood cross bars so the canoe can fit tight and nested to prevent sideways slippage. I built my own storage racks for the kayaks and canoe in my garage with wood.
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Old 08-02-2005, 07:26 PM   #28
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Larry71 has got to see by now that it is possible.

Like Davydd I feel I am a part-owner in the Yakima business. You name the outdoor activity and I seem to have the accessory -- skis, bicycle, canoe, kayak.

Foam pads -- I will never use those again if I value my vehicle finish. Cross paths with any strong weather or a semi on a 2 lane road and a canoe eventually will slide 12-15" sideways regardless of the method of strapping it down. Even a jury-rigged setup should have fixed load stops to prevent sideways sliding. Reese's Dual Cam antisway can't be made to work on an overhead rack...

flyfisher's suggestion of using the side mounts on your box could work okay -- just be sure to eyeball the curve of the coaming so that it stays clear of your truck cab. I've always enjoyed traveling under a canopy!
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Old 08-02-2005, 07:30 PM   #29
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Canoe stream
Davydd -- Know what you mean on my first love, the Boundary Waters... I've had to face the reality of orthopedics and use my kevlar Wenonah when I head to the far north lakes. But I have begun to lust after really shining up the ol' Grumman 17-footer under my deck - nothing travels more true on flat water (though, when have you ever seen a canoe with a keel .... ?!). Maybe when I have more time than I know what to do with.
Yes, those aluminum Grummans and Alumacrafts came with deep keels of about 1 to 2 inches the length of the canoe for the lakes. You could also get them without (about a 1/2 inch center seam keel) for river canoeing.
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Old 08-02-2005, 07:46 PM   #30
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By the way Larry 71 -- just what kind of canoe is this? River rocker or flat-bottomed laker?

(Okay -- if we can't get our 'Streams out this week we do get bored and have to prattle on. Thanks for putting up with us... Twink, this still counts as a post!!)
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Old 08-02-2005, 10:48 PM   #31
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I have built 32 canoes and traveled all over the us and Canada with them. A simple one time solution for your transporting job might be a thick blanket or old quilt. Lay it on top of your tow car and set the canoe on it. Tie the front of the canoe in a v to the front bumper and push the canoe to the back of the car as hard as you can. The front ropes are now tight. Tie the back of the canoe to rear bumper in such a way that you are pulling it further back, this is to keep the front ropes tight. after it is securly tied down go to the four corners where the canoe touches the blanket and roll all of the banket hanging out into a tight roll forcing it under the gunwale at each corner. This keeps it from flapping and helps tighten the tie down. The canoe on the car is aerodynamic and helps stabilize the car. I have used this technique many times and have driven at highway speed with no problem.If it gets wet tighten the back ropes even more.
good luck, stagecoachbill
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